Design Corse F3 Racing Modifications - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-30-2014, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Design Corse F3 Racing Modifications

I'm making (and have made) several critical modifications to my MV Agusta F3 675 since coming on board with Design Corse in order to maximize its performance for racing. I figured I'd start a tread to go through each modification I'm making to the bike (within the rules of what is permitted in the middle weight class for racing out here in California).

The first change is the exhaust. While this is not what I recommend spending your money on first when it comes to mods, it just happens to be one of the most exciting and aesthetic changes to the bike, so I thought I'd start with it.

The stock exhaust, while not bad looking, is very heavy, and gets very hot with the back can sitting right under the bike. This is why the stock bodywork is metal - anything else would melt. Indeed, my racing bodywork did melt!

The HP Corse "racing only" can from Design Corse is less than half the weight of the stock one (just the slip on for now - I'll move to a full system when the rule change here happens - right now it's not allowed). While some might bemoan the change from the tripple pipe look, I was more interested in weight and heat reduction and a performance increase. I have not had a chance to get it onto a dyno to see if there has been a horsepower increase, BUT power delivery is certainly smoother - there is less of that jerk/delay that is often attributed to the ride-by-wire of the F3. It's very subtle of course.

The sound (while it has nothing to do with performance, to me the aesthetics of being on a bike like the F3 vs say a Ninja is part of why I race this) change is amazing. The attributes of the 3 cylinder engine have roared to life in a deep throaty rumble (as opposed to marbles in a can).

One interesting note is that the link that holds the exhaust to the frame as to be loosened to get the rear wheel off, but it's no big deal.

This is for racing only - it does not fit on the bike with stock bodywork, but they have other fantastic options to use on a street bike.

http://www.designcorse.com/shop/mv-a...xhaust-systems




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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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I've been messing with the gearing of the bike too. Where I'm racing it I find that I do a lot of short shifting down to 2nd coming out of corners and then a short shift into 4th before heaving breaking. I wanted a little more low end so I could sit in 3rd through the entire corner and also be in 4th longer on the straights. The track is a flowing corner speed track where 600 cc are generally faster than 1000cc bikes.

Std gearing is F16T and R43T. The first move was to change to a 520 chain, and I'm using the Tallon sprockets from designcorse.com

This last time out I went to a F15T and R41T. The change was dramatic and to say the least, awesome. More low end like a twin, but more manageable. I spent much less time shifting, and could carry almost as much drive out the corners in 3rd as I was before in 2nd. I'm going to change the back to a 40T to see how that feels my next time out.





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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 11:27 AM
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Looks great! Good luck!!

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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 05:28 AM
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Interesting thread, keep it coming, thanks.
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 06:25 AM
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Wink

Here's more news, looks like Corran looses himself every now and again - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93281

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Last edited by Donsy; 07-02-2014 at 07:13 AM.
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Lol... just thought it was time for a new thread on specifically what I'm doing to the bike

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-03-2014, 12:17 AM
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From 15/43 to 16/41 as a change of final gearing of about 1.7%
I seriously doubt a professional racer could tell much of a difference with that minute of a change, never mind a amateur novice racer. I think you got your ratios wrong, mate.
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash2much View Post
From 15/43 to 16/41 as a change of final gearing of about 1.7%
I seriously doubt a professional racer could tell much of a difference with that minute of a change, never mind a amateur novice racer. I think you got your ratios wrong, mate.
16/43 to 15/41

and I'm going to change that to 15/40

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 07:39 PM
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Dropping a tooth in the front alone would make a noticeable change in power delivery for same gears, but dropping 2in the rear as well nearly makes very little net change as crash2much has stated. It would probably add 300rpm or so to the gear which may be what you need to ride out 3rd through the turn.

Dropping to 15/40 will set you nearly near dead equal to 16/43. I think of it as 1000rpm a front tooth and roughly 300rpm per rear tooth. Ifnyoubwant more bottom you'll want 15/42. Just watch you don't sacrifice speed in the stretches. Guess that's the transition into custom gear boxes.

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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-05-2014, 08:09 PM
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Adding or removing one tooth in front results to about a three tooth change at the back but in the opposite direction of course.

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