Rear wheel sockets, do I need two? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Rear wheel sockets, do I need two?

After sage-like advice from Noel I have ordered a SpeedyMoto rear hub socket from MotoWheels.

When changing tyres I have usually removed wheels myself and taken the rims to the tyre place for fitting so am buying the socket with future DIY use in mind. Being steel I guess that used inappropriately it can easily damage the nut.

Noel recommended that I get two sockets, one steel, one aluminium, the latter for use with a rattle gun for removing the nut. The steel socket for re-torquing the nut at the end. I'm in no way disputing his advice here BTW (just posting this for responses for the greater good), it makes sound sense if using power tools so as not to damage the nut. However, I'll be using a breaker bar at most to remove as I don't have power tools.

Of course an aluminium socket might make sense when touring as the need to remove the wheel to fix a puncture could find me in a situation where I have to entrust the job to a workshop (that might well lack the appropriate socket) and maybe not take a great deal of care. Is the Oberon anodised aluminium socket any good or are there better ones out there (subjective I know, would prefer UK or European supplier due to shipping and tax)? Or should I just take the steel socket and insist I do the job myself if they lend me a breaker bar?

The sellers of the aluminium sockets seem quite guarded about their durability when used outside of the MV stipulated torque values. Suppose that this might mean removal will take more than an ali socket can cope with and result in a broken socket leaving me no better off than being without a socket to start with...

I intend to remove the nut, using the steel socket and a breaker bar, prior to my upcoming tour to the Picos in Northern Spain, grease the thread and then re-torque. Hopefully this will avoid any issues with removal should I need to do so whilst away. Conflicting advice on here re. whether, or not, to reduce the torque in this scenario.

Chas
Previously a MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso
Defected to a Ducati Multistrada 1260S Touring

Last edited by Bumpkin; 05-11-2016 at 08:57 AM.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 09:45 AM
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Hi Chas,
Well good luck with using a breaker bar to remove the nut, I used to do that, but having broken a three foot long bar, and hurt myself in the nether regions doing this it is not an experience I want to repeat.

My method now is electric 450nm torque rattle gun, alloy wheel nut socket to fake it off, and a steel socket and 3/4inch bar to torque to a bit less than 200nm, yes that is lowered than the book but no way is the wheel going to fall off.

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in the garage: 2001 F4 750 1+1, 2005 Brutale 910S Carbon, 2007 Brutale 910R, 2009 F41000R, 2013 Brutale 800, 2015 Turismo Veloce 800,1976 Triumph T140D Bonneville, 1976 Honda CB400F2.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 10:24 AM
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I have no idea why you guys always go towards the worst case scenario 1st. MOST wheel nuts still come off relatively easy, try it first before you buy and break shit.
And keep in mind that the front axle nut size on the new bikes are different to the older models if/when you buy the "combination" tools.

Why would you need a steel instead of an Ally socket to torque the nut up Bumpkin ? You are doing this by hand you know. Look at the tools in my photo album buddy, I've removed more wheels than most people on this forum.

http://gallery.mvagusta.net/donsy/bu...ertools/page2/

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Last edited by Donsy; 05-11-2016 at 10:29 AM.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 10:37 AM
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FWIW. There's this thing called "preventative maintenance". Every time you wash your bike, undo that rear wheel nut, clean it, lube the threads and do it back up, no problems.
My wife changes my rear tyres at the track while I do the front, no power tools and torqued back up to 180nm.

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 11:07 AM
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Just nip down to Kwikfit and get them to slacken the nut using your socket if you think it's gonna be tight.

It's no big problem and If you use a rattle gun a child could undo it.

I wince when I hear people using long breaker bars...

TBH, I know the state of service of my axle and nut and I could easily undo it with standard tools..

BTW The Picos is great area...)

joe
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimboF4 View Post
Hi Chas,
Well good luck with using a breaker bar to remove the nut, I used to do that, but having broken a three foot long bar, and hurt myself in the nether regions doing this it is not an experience I want to repeat.

My method now is electric 450nm torque rattle gun, alloy wheel nut socket to fake it off, and a steel socket and 3/4inch bar to torque to a bit less than 200nm, yes that is lowered than the book but no way is the wheel going to fall off.
Thanks Jimbo, you're sort of backing up Noel's advice regarding the two socket approach there.

I assume that the use of the alloy socket is primarily to protect the nut from damage due the action of the rattle gun and is regarded as a relatively expendable item. I've now looked into these devices and see that electric ones aren't as expensive as I thought. Will need to time delivery for when the wife is out as she's not liking all these parcels that keep arriving...

As you're saying a bit less than 200Nm for torquing up it means I should get away with my current larger torque wrench, 200Nm is its ceiling.

Can you recommend a rattle gun? Leaning towards mains powered rather than battery as it'll get infrequent use. Air would be nice but quite frankly that can be saved for when I've built the garage for starters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotojoe
Just nip down to Kwikfit and get them to slacken the nut using your socket if you think it's gonna be tight.
Thanks Joe but, TBH, I don't think I would trust the monkeys at my local QwikFit. Would rather buy a rattle gun and be equipped myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gotojoe
TBH, I know the state of service of my axle and nut and I could easily undo it with standard tools..
Aiming for that state of enlightenment, though give me a chance, I've only had the bike less than a month

Previous bike was a VFR VTEC/Interceptor and I did three valve services on that (if you know the VTEC system you'll know that this isn't just a regular valve service) so I'm no mechanical numpty. I like to get to know my bikes inside out but that takes some familiarity.

Chas
Previously a MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso
Defected to a Ducati Multistrada 1260S Touring

Last edited by Bumpkin; 05-11-2016 at 11:49 AM.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 04:39 PM
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Chas, I went for a Clarke tools aka Machine Mart electric rattle gun, around 65 incl the dreaded vat. And for lubing the axle and nut I use Sealey aluminium compound anti seize compound at 10 for a 500gm tin, will last a lifetime.

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-11-2016, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, it was the Clarke CEW1000 that I've been looking at.

So everyone just ignores the advice of the manufacturers about not using their products with power tools?

Thanks also for the hint on the aluminium compound, have ordered some of that along with an Oberon ali socket and the Clarke impact wrench.

Chas
Previously a MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso
Defected to a Ducati Multistrada 1260S Touring

Last edited by Bumpkin; 05-11-2016 at 05:47 PM.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 06:16 AM
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And for other guys, you can get the combo tool for the new 3 cylinder models which will do front and rear axles, because the front axle nut size is different to the older models - http://www.performanceparts.de/en/MV...cc-models.html

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 06:54 AM
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This is what I bought and use on my B3 800.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MV-Agusta...YAAOSw0HVWDBJ0
No rattle gun here.

My Current Bikes
2014 VFR1200F ~ How Fast Do You Want To Tour?
2013 B3 800 ~ Naked Foolishness!
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