Frame powder coating question - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-09-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Frame powder coating question

I have my bike completely stripped down and i want to get the frame powder coated before i put it back togther

but before i take it to get done, i wanted to know if i needed to remove the frame yoke or not as i dont want to spend 100+ on the special tool if i dont need too

Thanks

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 01:19 AM
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No you don't have, mask it up properly.
Wouldn't getting it painted be better for the integrity of the frame ?

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 01:38 AM
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What is the problem with powder coating and the integrity of the frame? are you talking about sandblasting?
The frames are sandblasted at the factory.


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 01:58 AM
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Not saying, asking. A few guys have mentioned how the frame's get heat treated or something before being painted to strengthen them. I asked this question before and almost everybody re-commended painting rather than powdercoat because of the way powdercoating bakes the frame. I was just not prepared to take the chance.
If the factory painted the frame, I would do the same. But that's just what I would do, and that's why I asked the question again. Many people out there with more knowledge about these things than me.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donsy View Post
Not saying, asking. A few guys have mentioned how the frame's get heat treated or something before being painted to strengthen them. I asked this question before and almost everybody re-commended painting rather than powdercoat because of the way powdercoating bakes the frame. I was just not prepared to take the chance.
If the factory painted the frame, I would do the same. But that's just what I would do, and that's why I asked the question again. Many people out there with more knowledge about these things than me.
Powder coating is an electrostatic process in which the powder has opposite charge to the item being coated. Opposite charges attract and so the sprayed powder sticks like snot : ) The temperature is approx 200 deg C to enable the powder to cure

One prob with powder coating is that the engraved headstock vin number will be filled full of it. The factory engraves the vin number after coating..

If I had an area of part damage on frame I'd most likely paint it or you lose all the specification stickers as well.


joe
I'd do a good job though ; )

Last edited by gotojoe; 06-10-2012 at 05:01 AM.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 07:14 AM
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Powder coating won't hurt the frame at all If anything it will be good for it as the power coating is a really strong coating if done right

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys, and i've been going back and fourth about either powder coating or painting

my main concern about powder coating was the yoke stem as i wassnt sure if there was any rubber bearing or seals underneth the yoke cap since i never had it off...

i really don't think the heat from baking would hurt the chrome moly integrity as its on only 325/400 F but i will admiit i am still skeptical, and on the vin id label mines already in poor shape from before i got the bike, so i was going to look into getting it replaced/replicated after i got the frame redone

Painting would look better overall i think, but theres no painters around me that have alot of bike frame expericence and im worried about reassmebly dings or scratches

1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
1987 Toyota Supra with 1JZ Swap
2001 Mv Agusta F4-S
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MV-Woodster View Post
Powder coating won't hurt the frame at all If anything it will be good for it as the power coating is a really strong coating if done right
I will call Bullshit on that statement.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 12:18 PM
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Powder coating.....always a bit more work

Powder coating is my preferred method of bike restoration, i have used it over a dozen times. A good powder coater will provide plenty of gloss and good coverage. As powder is generally thicker than paint, some good and bad conditions exist. The good: where the finish is a bit rough like 'orange peel', the material thickness is sufficient to rub down with 2000 grit paper and smooth out. Additionally, powder is a bit tougher than most paints and retains a nice finish over time.

The "bad" is a bit more involved. Sand blasting will get grit in every little opening. Every threaded hole will need to be chased with a threading tap to clean out the grit and powder. If not, the captured grit will damage the fasteners and the threads. Using a shot of compressed air or shooting in some contact cleaner will not clean the hole. Almost every hole will need to have the edges cleaned up as powder builds up on hole faces and reduces the diameter. A well equipped powder coater will insert silicone rubber plugs into every hole to blank off the powder, but the plugs are usually inserted after the sand blasting. Extensive cleaning before reassembly is mandatory.

In some cases, the powder coater may be inclined to lay on "too heavy" a coat making some areas look fat. On some edges, like the lower edge of the headstock tube, powder will build up like a fat lip. I would not use a powder coater until I was able to see some of his work and had the recommendation of several users of the service who have high standards. Avoid places that do a lot of boat trailers and Caterpillar Tractor blades

The worst part is the grit. To protect the components inside the headstock tube, you must use two close fitting metal discs held in place with all-thread rod or similar. The high temperatures employed will not allow adhesive tape, or rags or anything non-metallic to seal off the openings. Even after fitting some form of metal discs, you will find, that the high air pressure has forced very tiny bits of sand everywhere inside the headstock and extensive cleaning will be necessary.

I still favor powder, but its work, work, work.

Ciao,
Dick

Below is a photo of an Aermacchi I did last summer. Note the smaller hole to the left of the slotted tab on the red frame rail above the engine. Powder has built up around the hole that was protected by a silicone rubber plug. On the larger hole below the slotted tab: the hole diameter is now closed up and before the engine bolt will go in, the powder will need to be 'eased out' with a hand scraper. On this bike I also had the engine powder coated in black wrinkle finish. Cleaning all of the passageways in the engine took hours.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 05:35 PM
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Only recommendation that I have to give is to have the VIN number masked off. I got mine back together and took it to the DMV to register it and had to chip off the powder coat where the VIN was.
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