HiD Headlights - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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HiD Headlights

My low beam is an HiD. WHich makes sense in a projector housing. But now it seems that the high beam is totally worthless.


Has anyone switched the high beam over to HiD?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:13 PM
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Dont waste your time. The high beam is useless because the low beam is good but HID sucks for initial starting and flashing, when you first turn it on it only makes like 300 lumens until it heats up. Stick with the halogen.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:27 PM
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Well, here we can agree to disagree...I did both and use my Flash-to-Pass button to pre-energize the High
Beam just prior to the switch over...works quite well.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Dont waste your time. The high beam is useless because the low beam is good but HID sucks for initial starting and flashing, when you first turn it on it only makes like 300 lumens until it heats up. Stick with the halogen.
I agree that cheap HiD kits it takes a few seconds for them to heat up. The better more expensive ones dont. I know this because my truck has them both.

My problem with using low beam only is it doesnt shine down the road far enough. I like to see dear before I hit them. But the high beam isnt near as bright as the HiD low so I dont switch to it.

I was also thinking of placing a diode on the proper high and low relay so when I flip the highs on the lows stay on as well (did the same thing in my truck but highs/lows/fogs all come on).

I wouldnt even consider this if I didnt live in a heavily wooded area. My commute to work is 20 miles (32km) one way. 12 (20km) of those miles are rural.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 02:57 PM
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Did you re-aim the lens after installing the HID? I had to aim mine up a bit afterward and it points well down the road while still not being in the mirrors of cars (unless going over hills, bumps etc). And the high beam still works, it still projects well, its just perception because your eyes adjusted to all of the light really close to you that when you switch the high beam seems dim.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Actually the light is adjusted for 2 up riding. I should readjust for 1 up riding because thats the most riding I do.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:21 PM
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I've fitted 1000s of these kits mate don't waste your time u will never use ur high beam again once hid is in low beam

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MV-Woodster View Post
I've fitted 1000s of these kits mate don't waste your time u will never use ur high beam again once hid is in low beam
Ive had the HiD in the low beam since I bought the bike. I need more down road lighting that isnt so perfectly aimed. Too many woods and dear here to not have it.

Is there no gain from having a bright high beam that comes on with the low beam?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 05:48 PM
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While I never fitted a HID I understand your problem . The differential between low and high beam is too much,set the high beam where you can see the road and the low is barely past the front guard ,set the low where its usefull and high is in the tree tops .
I guess it was designed with lit up city driving in mind. They arent too hot for nightwork in the country.

Go the way of your truck and install a diode, you can check what that will be like with your std beam by using the pass switch instead of swiching to high beam. With some carefull setting up it may be acceptable but with 2 HIDs you should be able to vapourise the bastards.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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I was just looking through the manual - are the high and low beam relays right next to each other? Its looks like it on page 206 of the main manual. If thats the case then you should be able to just diode jump the latching legs of the relays instead of opening up the swtich to do it.
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