Up grading the cooling system on my 07 F4 - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Up grading the cooling system on my 07 F4

I just ordered a MY 2010 radiator..a 2010 oil cooler...and lines from Timemachine ( Essex UK )

I already have a Brutale rear water manifold....and a Brutale oil cooler adapter plate ( the bit wot the lines go into the engine ).

Does away with the lower rad..and miles of plumbing..

Let's see if any of this kit will fit : )

joe

Last edited by gotojoe; 10-05-2011 at 08:12 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 09:26 PM
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Thumbs up radiatorendectomy?

Joe;
thats sort of what i did for Donsy and myself

oil cooler instead of lower rad and 'heat exchanger' BS

radiator cap on top of right tank....outlet plugged on right tank

left tank was divided horizontally, outlet added to left tank, Brutale water pipe used a 12mm line from waterpipe closed off...
now the header tank is no longer pressurized and gravity/siphon feeds the radiator......and the system bleeds itself
what a concept

good move Joe

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Last edited by theknurl; 10-08-2011 at 03:31 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 12:12 AM
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Thumbs up +10

Good one that Joe, I had a look in the parts manual at the layout, nice size oil cooler too($$$ ). I think it could be easy to make it work, please keep us posted.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Joe;
thats sort of what i did for Donsy and myself

oil cooler instead of lower rad and 'heat exchanger' BS

radiator cap on top of right tank....outlet plugged on right tank

left tank was divided horizontally, outlet added to left tank, Brutale water pipe used 12mm line from waterpipe closed...
now the header tank is no longer pressurized and gravity/siphon feeds the radiator......and the system bleeds itself
what a concept

good move Joe
Yes Noel, What you and Donsy did was inspired. I'm simply following in your footprints.

I'll post some pics shortly. Like all things this will take alot of thinking and measuring. I'm pretty sure I can do this without chopping the rads about and making a few special bolts and spacers.

Do I need to do this ? No not in our climate for temperature reasons. However ..The bike will run cooler and MV have strengthened up the rad and it's mounting. You'd swear the guys at MV have read the forum posts and acted in this new design..which now supports the rad by the side tanks as well as the top edge..

I've had a rad crack out on the road..so it is worth doing the project do avoid this in future.

Thanks for your interest fellas..It is a motivator : )

joe
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Rad

Here are the two radiator set ups side by side. What a difference a year makes....

I also think it would be relatively easy as an option to swap just the oil cooler and keep the old type top rad.The reduced height of the oil cooler allows space for the cross over pipe.. The cross over pipe facilitates correct transfer of the coolant across the rad.

Interested in why there is a blanked off bottom pipe on the left of the new rad. Did someone drop a boo boo ?

joe

ps the fan is off a pre 2010 bike..It can be made to fit...There are mtg points for two fans but no fan on the oil cooler which kinda makes sense for road use ?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 05:40 AM
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Exclamation Hhhmm

I would go for full system as the old top rad is a lot smaller than the new one. I think that bung was intended for a temp sensor. ?

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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See wot u mean Donsy, many more rails per inch etc ...

That left side bunged off pipe is swaged and same size as the top and bottom hose pipes...


With regard to the temp sensor port..that's a job for Henry unless I put the temp sensor in an in line adaptor ..Hmmm
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 03:39 PM
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Wink better....

well, they almost got it....

if they had divided the left tank in half horizontally, and put the outlet in the bottom of the left tank they could eliminate the crossover tube, 1 hose and 2 clamps
at least they improved the mounts and got rid of the pressurized tank and use a standard radiator cap instead of the old POS

and the bike will now bleed itself

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-15-2011, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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I decided to layout the components and the cooling circuit before taking my existing system off. Just to get it clear in my mind as to what the eck I'm doing : )

The Guinness glass represents the Water pump and the little model engine represents the F4 lump : )

I'm not sure if I should be blanking off the water bottle cap overflow or using that and blanking off the lower water bottle inlet.

Is there any harm in leaving the water bottle cap pressurised ? Or would that inhibit it's functioning as a header tank ?

Hmmm
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-15-2011, 06:03 AM
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Post Hi Joe

I took the spring out of my cap, as you allready have a pressure cap on the rad. You come in the bottom of the rad just like you would on most cars I believe, so that if the rad expelled some fluid and needed to suck it back in there is no air in it.
Then the top pipe you can just let drain to the ground.
You also have to weld up that hole on the silwer pipe.

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Last edited by Donsy; 10-15-2011 at 06:11 AM.
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