Has anyone had there crankshaft lightened on a F4R?? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Has anyone had there crankshaft lightened on a F4R??

I was thinking of sending mine off since it was out, but if anyone has done this already, some feedback would be nice.

Or

has any of you guys had your rod lightened or polished.

I have an engine in peices and i am trying to take advantage of the situation.

Thanks a mille folks

Tree
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 01:13 PM
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My best guess would be that yamacatiman may have done.
Perhaps send him a PM?
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 06:21 PM
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Thumbs up

like Dave said more than likely Ernest has had it done, give him a call his number is in the members list

i think he went to Falicon
http://www.faliconcranks.com/




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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Ya know,
I got with yamacatiman before and I am not gonna lie, that dude did the full blown, no holds barred modification to his engine.
No kidding, the list is ridiculous :-O
but, he went big bore. I am not looking for big bore, i am not looking for big numbers. I just want more out of the stock engine (characterwise) and since I am conducting "open heart surgery" here, i wanted to know if anyone else has tried anything (physically to the motor) and what thier feedback was.
Yamacatiman was/is a great source of info, but he went big bore. I would like to keep her at stock CC's and see if i could chase me down a beemer (i know the engine config. wont support that, :-) But maybe i could beat'em to 130) :-)

thanks in advance in any body has anything

Tree
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 07:12 PM
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I wouldn't take any weight off the crank as I don't consider it necessary for performance. When you blip the throttle a stock crank revs as fast as you can twist the grip. The downside is the loss of rotating inertia which helps the engine over TDC at idle and stores a bit of energy for starting off from a stop.

Polishing rods has some benefit in that all the rough edges are smoothed off which helps fatigue cracks from starting. Plus they look wicked cool. Don't forget to rebalance if you do.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee View Post
I wouldn't take any weight off the crank as I don't consider it necessary for performance. When you blip the throttle a stock crank revs as fast as you can twist the grip. The downside is the loss of rotating inertia which helps the engine over TDC at idle and stores a bit of energy for starting off from a stop.

Polishing rods has some benefit in that all the rough edges are smoothed off which helps fatigue cracks from starting. Plus they look wicked cool. Don't forget to rebalance if you do.
I know. Thanks for the feed back, Lee.
Do you know anyone who has actually done crank/rod work to thier 1000??
I know alot of people said that they had to turn thier idle up to compensate for the lack of inertia, but i am looking to see if any of our guys have tried it for thier 1000.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 03:59 PM
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might just want to lighten the flywheel instead..much simpler and you can put it back...

I put an lightweight aluminum flywheel on my Ducati 998...it definitely revved up alot faster...it was nice change, but like other have said, I had to increase the idle speed and it was harder to start.

With that said, if you decide to lighten the crank, then re balancing the crank is required (as lee said)...when I worked at RHS, balancing a crank required the placing weights on the crank that coincided with the weight of the of the piston and rod assembly...Rod, bearing, wrist pin, piston and rings. I am not sure if this applies to inline 4s...but it was certainly required with v-8s. In short, I believe the person balancing the crank will need those items...I would at least inquire about it.

in regards to the Rods....we would grind the beams smooth, shot peen, and glassbead them. The shot peen process relieves stress. It was called a "super stock" rod..legal in many "stock" racing classes.

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Last edited by lewdog998; 08-31-2011 at 04:02 PM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 06:14 PM
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While you're at it you could have the rods cryogenic treated. And then work 'em over.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:24 PM
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Since you have her apart, you should replace your power bands too.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog998 View Post
Since you have her apart, you should replace your power bands too.
HAHAHAHAAA!!!!!!
(I'm not that new, bro )

Ok.
So fly wheel is better than crank.
But if you had a crank to spare, would you still do the crank??
I like the idea of spoolin' up faster, and i dont mind the higher idle.

what about the rods?? i know the cryo treatment gives strength, but that shouldnt be an issue being that i am not chasing super HP numbers. Is the polishing's sole objective to improve efficiency as the rod is moving through the mist?? That sounds like something i would like to pursue in conjunction with crank lightening (and possibly polishing that too. But only if it effects mechanical operation).

ohh yeah, lewd, why did you have trouble starting if the flywheel was lighter??

thanks for the feedback gents, keep it comin'

Tree

Last edited by TreeMV #2; 09-01-2011 at 12:08 PM.
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