Brake and Clutch line for RCS? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Brake and Clutch line for RCS?

Are we be able using oem brake and clutch line for RCS? or Do we need to up-grade new one? Can anyone point me where can I get it from?
Thanks,
Phil


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 11:27 AM
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Exclamation Hi Phil

I use the OEM clutch line, fits right in on the RCS16.
On the brakes I use a custom dual line set from HEL, ordered over the phone but using my own guessed lengths and fitting angles. They were really good price (+/-$120 delivered) but these guys are closer to you
http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cu...ake-lines.html
and this is where I will order my next set from.
You should be able to use the OEM set on the brakes but I feel they leave too much room for bubbles and have less feel than individual lines, the RCS come with the right fittings to adapt.
Feel free to ask if you eed more info.

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Last edited by Donsy; 08-11-2011 at 11:30 AM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 11:27 AM
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for the short term I am using something like this to adapt the stock lines to radial masters

http://helperformance.com/store/prod...oducts_id=3520

In the long term I plan to order complete new lines from either HEL or Spiegler

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 11:32 AM
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I'll also add that i agree with Donsy, it was a pain in the ass the bleed with that adapter setup on the brake side.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,
Did you guys use a sucker pump out fluid when you guys bleeding the brake? or do manual?


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 01:10 PM
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I used a 60mL syringe to pull fluid from the top to the bottom, as i'd rebuild the brake calipers as the same time. After that I did some manual bleeding and then pumped the brakes a lot while i tapped the lines and fittings to get the air bubbles to rise to the top. I used the clear tygon tubing for the reservoirs so that i could see the bubbles continue to rise to the top. When I was finished with all this, I used a cable tie to depress the brake lever overnight (and for a couple days) during some really hot weather, and got the lever really nice and firm. This was only necessary because I was using beringer master cylinders not brembos. Brembos have a bleeder right on the MC, which makes bleeding them a piece of cake.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Guys,
my project hold off since Friday, I have a problem with RCS brake lever adjust nob hitting odometer, should I adjust the clipon back little? how did you guys install your brake master with this problem?


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-12-2011, 09:11 PM
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I used a spacer on the ohlins dampener, i'll take a picture and i'll send it to you phil.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
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I used a spacer on the ohlins dampener, i'll take a picture and i'll send it to you phil.
Good idea - can you post the pic on here....

Adam
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2011, 06:39 PM
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Make your own lines. Either braided stainless from Earls or Russell or the very small plastic lines and fittings from the Parker Store. They're a hydraulic supply outfit. Stuff is called "Parflex" and it's 3/16" in diam. I use them on all the bikes I build and they are the best setup I've ever seen. Good to 600psi and sooo easy to work with. Flexible, and can be curved with a hair dryer to fit tit.

I got mine. Boy do I ever got mine.
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