I'm a new MV owner. The bike had been stored away in a showroom for about 5 years and some of the nuts and bolts have gone rusty; is there a pack I can buy to replace these or do I just change them as I go along?(which is what I am thinking)
Is there any mods or anything I should be doing to the bike? I absolutely love the look of it and the only thing I'm changing is the tail tidy but I'm wondering what kind of things people do to the bikes like gut the exhausts or anything like that? Any tips or tricks, that kinda thing.
It's a 2010 F4 and I'm quite hands on so I don't mind having a play.
You can polish them right up. Someone more familiar with UK brands can recommend. I used red jewelers rouge on my fasteners and bolts and they came out beautiful.
Buy headers and a mid-pipe and dump the catalytic converter. Don't remove the baffles until you do that....you may like the way it sounds with the cat gone.
Plus you will lose weight and gain a touch of HP. Just taking out the baffles is a waste of effort with the cat in place.
As per @MV Arthur 's post, you can clean up the fasteners to good effect. If the bike is in an environment where the ambient changes (like an unheated garage) the corrosion will probably come back. Other than replating the fasteners - which is my first choice - you can polish them and then spritz them with a light clear coat from a spray can to insulate them from the moisture. In the US at least you can get two-part, catalyzed clear coat but even single part will last pretty well.
When I lived on the beach in Rio, the high salinity and fog (sea air) caused everything to rust very quickly. I had to spray the circuit boards in my computer, tv, remote, etc.. with a product made for anti corrosion.
Forget about the second air (air injection) system. It has ZERO affect on power and isn't worth the hassle (or cost although it is minimal).
Headers and mid-pipe (link pipe) will cost a bit. Certainly less than a full system. The headers from an earlier model may fit, but I don't know for certain.
I don't think the F4 has an exhaust tuning valve.... if it does then the mid-pipe is going to eliminate that and you may need a servo-buddy or similar to turn off the fault code.
You do have a oxygen sensor, but that is an easy weld-in bung if needed.
If you get a ECU flash or replacement then the exhaust valve and the oxygen sensor can be eliminated in the mapping.
Early model headers will not clear the bump on the front of the later engines.
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