TV/Stradale/Rivale/Dragster rear indicator original specs? - MVAgusta.net
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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TV/Stradale/Rivale/Dragster rear indicator original specs?

Hi,

changed indicators by LED one with 2.5W ones. As I got one side running faster than the other, I suspected the flasher unit and changed it. When engine doesn't run : it blinks properly. When engine runs it blinks faster. I want to check by adding resistors. Anyone ho could give me the specs of the original ones, so I know what resistor to target?

Thanks

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Old 04-21-2019, 03:04 PM
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TV/Stradale/Rivale/Dragster rear indicator original specs?

Following. I am also looking to buy aftermarket indicator lights. I would like to know what to look for...

BTW Marc I posted a question regarding aftermarket lights on the MV TV Facebook page. Maybe post this same question there in comments.


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Old 04-21-2019, 07:11 PM
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Yes I'm in same boat after replacing the fugly licence plate holder and purchased some rizoma
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Old 04-30-2019, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MarcSilverTriple View Post
Hi,

changed indicators by LED one with 2.5W ones. As I got one side running faster than the other, I suspected the flasher unit and changed it. When engine doesn't run : it blinks properly. When engine runs it blinks faster. I want to check by adding resistors. Anyone ho could give me the specs of the original ones, so I know what resistor to target?

Thanks
Apparently, the standard LED indicators are 10 Watts, I'm considering adding resistors in parallel to the circuitry. Not sure yet where to add them. Apparently, the rear harness is plugged next to the battery holder, and there maybe room to add the 2 resistors there.

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Old 04-30-2019, 10:44 AM
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wondering where the 10 watt rating for MV Turismo t/s came from?
Apparently MV has a proprietary electronic turn signal controller so we can't just change a relay.

From what I've read, incandescent bulbs are 10W.
I can't imagine the standard MV signals draw that much power... of course I could be wrong.

Further I've read that the hyper flash kits available use 6 to 8 ohm 10 Watt resistors.
They caution that the resistors get hot so do not mount them to plastic.
Which makes sense for normal circuits.

I have some ideas...

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Old 04-30-2019, 11:08 AM
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When LED lights are installed in normally incandescent circuits, resistance must be added to make up for the lost resistance...and bring wattage back into the spec of the circuit.

The resistance to do that is generally in the form of a heat sink resistor of about 10W. They get hot because current through resistance creates heat...it is how an incandescent light bulb works.

Many companies make these resistors.

Now, the Rivale, the Dragster and the TC have the same rear turn signal arrangement of what looks to be six LEDs in a housing. Each of those LEDs consumes a non-specified wattage. That wattage should be marked on the base of the LED.

You can disassemble the turn signal and figure that out. Since there are several LEDs the total wattage is probably higher than you'd expect.

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Old 04-30-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
When LED lights are installed in normally incandescent circuits, resistance must be added to make up for the lost resistance...and bring wattage back into the spec of the circuit.

The resistance to do that is generally in the form of a heat sink resistor of about 10W. They get hot because current through resistance creates heat...it is how an incandescent light bulb works.

Many companies make these resistors.

Now, the Rivale, the Dragster and the TC have the same rear turn signal arrangement of what looks to be six LEDs in a housing. Each of those LEDs consumes a non-specified wattage. That wattage should be marked on the base of the LED.

You can disassemble the turn signal and figure that out. Since there are several LEDs the total wattage is probably higher than you'd expect.

Attachment 461819
Each led is approximatively consuming 1,5W. There is 6 of them, and they are likely to be in parallel (otherwise, if one fail, all would fail). 6*1,5 is about 9W. Most bikes are set out of the box for 10W indicators (led, some bulbs) or 21W indicators (bulb only). Now that being said, it's likely than the flasher unit works for a range rather than just a specific power output : I had before the kellerman two rizoma indicators: one was flashing right, and the other was hyper flashing (the one flashing correctly is broken, I can't mesure it's specific power consumption, the other one is just below 3Watts). Apparently, the flasher unit is out of range when one of the indicator on the side is below 3 watts. Kellermann I mounted now are likely to be more solid than the rizoma but are given for 2.5 watts: both side are hyper flashing.

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Old 04-30-2019, 04:03 PM
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In the other thread you (marc) mention the 10 watt consumption value. How do you know this? (answered in post #7)
So, assuming a 10 watt power consumption; and if I did my ohm's law and math correct.

A 6 ohm resistor should work... so I bought resistors of 6, 8 & 10 ohms to give it a go.
In parallel none of the 3 values works.
The signal blinks once and stops. I have to cycle the ignition to restore t/s operation.

I did use a .5 watt resistor for testing.
The resistor used did not fail or even get a chance to get hot. So I do not think a higher wattage resistor will work either.

I have no way of knowing the power rating of the after market turn signals without measuring the current.
So now I wonder if the circuit needs more resistance?

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Old 04-30-2019, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Teeps View Post
In the other thread you (marc) mention the 10 watt consumption value. How do you know this? (answered in post #7)
So, assuming a 10 watt power consumption; and if I did my ohm's law and math correct.

A 6 ohm resistor should work... so I bought resistors of 6, 8 & 10 ohms to give it a go.
In parallel none of the 3 values works.
The signal blinks once and stops. I have to cycle the ignition to restore t/s operation.

I did use a .5 watt resistor for testing.
The resistor used did not fail or even get a chance to get hot. So I do not think a higher wattage resistor will work either.

I have no way of knowing the power rating of the after market turn signals without measuring the current.
So now I wonder if the circuit needs more resistance?
Someone mentioned 10 Watts on another forum. 6 leds are likely between 1 to 1.5W range each all in parallel.

The resistors you used are too small and the consumption is likely over the expected target:
U=RI, W(power)=UI, I=U/R, W=U*U/R, R=U*U/W

I also noted something that may help. When engine is not running, my indicators are running fine. Battery tension is about 13V. When engine is running (14,4V), they hyper flash.
I would do the assumption the required resistor is between 17 and 24 Ohms.

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Old 04-30-2019, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcSilverTriple View Post
Someone mentioned 10 Watts on another forum. 6 leds are likely between 1 to 1.5W range each all in parallel.

The resistors you used are too small and the consumption is likely over the expected target:
U=RI, W(power)=UI, I=U/R, W=U*U/R, R=U*U/W

I also noted something that may help. When engine is not running, my indicators are running fine. Battery tension is about 13V. When engine is running (14,4V), they hyper flash.
I would do the assumption the required resistor is between 17 and 24 Ohms.
Continuing on: I measured the amp draw of the stock turn signal and saw between 1.4 and 1.5 amps (this was done connected to a battery charger)
According to my ohm's law cheat wheel. Where "P" is watts, "E" is volts and "I" is current.
To get power (watts) you multiply volts times the amps. P=E x I

In this case 12 x 1.5 = 18 watts
If I run the calculation using 14 volts 14 x 1.5 = 21 watts

Now I need to test the after market turn signal current draw, then do some more math...
Reaching back 50 years for this stuff learnt in middle school who'd a thunk?
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