Proactive on the wheel nut - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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Proactive on the wheel nut

Just a little suggestion based on member experience shared on the forum. F4 and Brutale.

If you buy a used bike.....

There are numerous tales of woe relating to difficulty removing the rear wheel nut.

This almost certainly is due to a lack of lubrication in the past leading to corrosion between the aluminium nut and the steel axle.

Have a torque wrench in the correct range... Refer to manual...

Have the correct wheel nut socket ( The oe nuts are tapered so you need a tapered socket ). There are some after market sellers supplying straight cut wheel nuts.( check yours ).

Have some anti sieze grease ( I use copperease ).

If you don't have a compressor and a "rattle gun", pop the socket in your pocket and take a trip down to your local tyre bay when they are quiet. They'll be glad to have your company

Ask them to undo the wheel nut using your socket .Remove the safety clip securing the nut to the spindle . Remember it is a left hand thread so righty loosey. As Noel pointed out recently, nuts which have little grooves around the circumference indicate that this is a left hand thread ( International convention ).

Then tighten it up to a sensible torque and ride home.

When you get home...remove the nut yourself. It will be easy now as the Tyre bay guys have taken all the angst out of it for you.

Now clean the threads of the nut and the spindle up. They are very fine threads and it doesn't take much to block them and cause resistance when undoing.

When the spindle/ nut threads are clean, lubricate the first few threads of the axle ( refer to manual ) with the anti-sieze grease.

Make sure that the parts are dry. ie not wet with water ..

Don't put grease on the conical mating surfaces of the nut and spindle. These are gripping surfaces and the manual instructs you not to do this...

Now torque her up using an extension bar through the axle so that you can use the torque wrench in the correct sense from the left side of the bike ie turning it clockwise to tighten with the socket reversed on the extension.( which turns the nut ant-clockwise when viewed from the right side of the bike. ( refer to the manual for torque setting ).

If you do this you will reduce signifcantly the chances of having to get a nine foot breaker bar out on your bike next time you wish to remove the wheel simply because the thing is stuck fast through lack of this simple bit of preventative maintenance.

and if you buy a new bike..I'd ask them to do this on the first service....

joe

Last edited by gotojoe; 11-26-2013 at 03:38 AM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 01:14 AM
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Nice write up Joe,should be a sticky


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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 07:10 AM
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i just want to add to joes (i no you have covered this but i feel this the major problem with this issue)
remember its a reversed thread which means it tightens in a normal untightening direction .. i have sean lots of numbies doing this inc 1 guy with a 6ft scafold pole over his wrench (was not an MV)

i have a form of dislexia as i have said plenty of time and it dont bother me .................. but im not stupid or a tard so dont try it on


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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 02:06 PM
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Good post Joe and very thorough and informative.

Interesting to read that some aftermarket sellers produce 'straight' cut nut replacements as opposed to the OEM 'taper' cut ones.
If I was ever to replace mine it would be with a straight cut as I find the 'taper cut socket wants to 'twist out' of it's location on the OEM nuts when., Doing up/undoing., them using a breaker bar & torque wrench.
Brian.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks fellas.

Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe

Last edited by gotojoe; 11-29-2013 at 04:08 AM.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotojoe View Post
Thanks fellas.

Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe
I'll check them out Joe....,thanks.

It's just something I found ....wouldn't happen with a 'rattle gun' when taking them off but definitely with a breaker bar/torque wrench (I found) and you have to hold the socket tool tight against the nut to prevent it.

And I'm kinda lost being born without that 3rd hand

Brian.

Last edited by BG Wells; 11-29-2013 at 06:30 PM.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013, 06:33 PM
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Joe, I had a search and spotted those 'straight cut nuts you mentioned.....very reasonable!.
Think I'm gonna get me a set!......well it's Christmas......... ''Humbug'!!!!
Brian.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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Seems a good deal especially if you off set some of the cost by selling your originals.
Let me know how u get on Brian.
Joe
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 02:27 PM
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Hi Joe! and all!
Removed my wheel nut during lunch today.
'07 F100R w/3850 miles (tires are shot!)
Held rear brake w/one hand and turned nut off with breaker!
Was not too tight, threads perfect and no anti-seize from factory.
Pulling hub later to inspect and pack bearings.

Ed
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-02-2013, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotojoe View Post

Brian there is a German Ebay seller supplying straight cut nuts as a set..sprocket and wheel nut. at not an insane price... I take your point on the taper and I can only surmise that is as an aid to rapid location for the socket in a race setting ?
joe
I heard only good on German forums about this guy. I myself do not have anything from him. I just grinded a nut with an air tool to fit. No scratches .

I motori sono come le donne, bisogna saperli toccare nelle parti piu' sensibili.......
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