Water pump outer seal replacement 2008 312R - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Montana
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Water pump outer seal replacement 2008 312R

After finding out I had a bad outer seal on my water pump the repair has finally been completed successfully. The whole ordeal was a pain in the ass just to get the new seal but installing it was a very easy 2 hour job, I am old ok so a little slower these days. The pump was leaking coolant from the weep hole between the inner and outer seals.
After checking the Shop Manual they say to heat the pump up to 120C or 240F. I am thinking the reason is for the aluminum pump to expand enough for the bearings to be removed and replaced easily. I figured if I did that I would ruin the inner oil seal and not having a replacement I decided not to heat the pump in order to remove and replace the outer coolant side seal.
I removed the old seal's spring and used a small flat bladed screw driver and pushed it though the seal and carefully pried it out, easy enough.
Now to get the new seal pressed in.
I took a spark plug socket that just so happened to be the correct diameter and faced it flat on my lath and used it to seat the new seal.
Care must be taken to not damage the seal so having the socket just a touch under the diameter of the seal made that happen. A few taps with a small hammer and in it went. I used a bit of coolant to help it slip in. I made sure the seal was evenly seated and put the pump back together.
A little oil on the bearing and the O ring that seals the crank case and in she went making sure the shaft was lined up to the drive.
I replaced the coolant after all was put back together and started the bike. At 190F the seal would start to leak before and now it is not. I ran the bike for about 15 minutes after it came up to normal temp of between 191 and 180 with no evidence of leaking. Yippee!
Removing the pump vain was a bit tricky as the improved vain or pump hub is pretty thin and could be broken if you get too heavy handed with it so be careful. Righty tighty lefty loosey.
Having the correct tools to do the job like the clamp pliers for removing the hose clamps makes things go so much easier.
The seal is a Buna 12 X 28 X 8 mm standard metric seal.
They can be had at;
Allied Metrics, inc.
2 Wilson Drive
Sparta, NJ 07871
Phone 973-383-2487
I had to buy ten of these seals at $7.50 each because they were not in stock. I will be sending three to CAG and three to Noel for emergencies that may pop up like finding out you have a leak a few days before that track day. It took two weeks to get the seals so lead time is an issue.
If anyone knows what the seal size is for the inner or oil seal side, it is different, please post up for the rest of us out here.
Thanks to NICO312RR for your help identifying the correct seal size for the coolant side.
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Last edited by Sagerider; 11-25-2013 at 07:51 PM.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagerider View Post
After finding out I had a bad outer seal on my water pump the repair has finally been completed successfully. The whole ordeal was a pain in the ass just to get the new seal but installing it was a very easy 2 hour job, I am old ok so a little slower these days. The pump was leaking coolant from the weep hole between the inner and outer seals.
After checking the Shop Manual they say to heat the pump up to 120C or 240F. I am thinking the reason is for the aluminum pump to expand enough for the bearings to be removed and replaced easily. I figured if I did that I would ruin the inner oil seal and not having a replacement I decided not to heat the pump in order to remove and replace the outer coolant side seal.
I removed the old seal's spring and used a small flat bladed screw driver and pushed it though the seal and carefully pried it out, easy enough.
Now to get the new seal pressed in.
I took a spark plug socket that just so happened to be the correct diameter and faced it flat on my lath and used it to seat the new seal.
Care must be taken to not damage the seal so having the socket just a touch under the diameter of the seal made that happen. A few taps with a small hammer and in it went. I used a bit of coolant to help it slip in. I made sure the seal was evenly seated and put the pump back together.
A little oil on the bearing and the O ring that seals the crank case and in she went making sure the shaft was lined up to the drive.
I replaced the coolant after all was put back together and started the bike. At 190F the seal would start to leak before and now it is not. I ran the bike for about 15 minutes after it came up to normal temp of between 191 and 180 with no evidence of leaking. Yippee!
Removing the pump vain was a bit tricky as the improved vain or pump hub is pretty thin and could be broken if you get too heavy handed with it so be careful. Righty tighty lefty loosey.
Having the correct tools to do the job like the clamp pliers for removing the hose clamps makes things go so much easier.
The seal is a Buna 12 X 28 X 8 mm standard metric seal.
They can be had at;
Allied Metrics, inc.
2 Wilson Drive
Sparta, NJ 07871
Phone 973-383-2487
I had to buy ten of these seals at $7.50 each because they were not in stock. I will be sending three to CAG and three to Noel for emergencies that may pop up like finding out you have a leak a few days before that track day. It took two weeks to get the seals so lead time is an issue.
If anyone knows what the seal size is for the inner or oil seal side, it is different, please post up for the rest of us out here.
Thanks to NICO312RR for your help identifying the correct seal size for the coolant side.

Well done Rod. This is what the forum is about.....A nice informative article which will help other owners...thank you...

joe
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