Fuel pump stud broke off...help. - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump stud broke off...help.

Guys, one of the studs attached to the tank broke off. Has anyone experience this before and how did you replace it? I did not realize how sensitive these are considering you need to put a good amount of pressure to keep the gas from leaking....any help would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 03:21 PM
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Low torque fasteners.....do NOT exceed the spec and use a good quality torque wrench.

I think your best bet is going to have a really good welder weld on a new stud...I did say REALLY good welder, didn't I??

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 05:20 PM
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Actually. You could probably DIY the welding. This stuff looks promising. I bought some but have yet to try it yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCrixbXz4rc

I'm with you on the pain. I managed to snap off a banjo bolt in my FZR's master cylinder while upgrading the brakes. It's amazingly easy to break stuff using standard hand tools.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 05:54 PM
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Wink ?

m39023;
its an O-ring seal on the bore, the 3 studs are there to keep the pump in

you way over torqued it

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I've got a really good welder local to me. He said he'll give it try before he retires fr welding the end of the week. Well known to all the racers here in Los Angeles county.
@theknurl, yes I knew that...however looking at the studs it seems they were already weak in the middle from previous stress from who ever owned it before. I made sure all sides were flat and evenly tighten them progressively.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 12:55 AM
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Wink studly?

m39023;
your posts #1 & 5 kind of contradict each other

the torque on an M6 nut or bolt is pretty standard

and since there are only 3 nuts...... and the plastic tanked Brutales have 9 bolts and a different O-ring arrangement

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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@rchase..good find. Looks simple and easy, worth looking into.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m39023 View Post
@rchase..good find. Looks simple and easy, worth looking into.
Only two words of suggestion from some reading I have been doing about the stuff and the process of brazing.

1. Practice on some junk parts first.
2. Get a good torch with good heat output. You can weld thin pieces with a propane torch but anything thick requires a lot more heat. Aluminum also has some interesting thermodynamic properties that allow it to move heat quickly.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 10:13 AM
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Your fuel tank is steel.
But I like that stuff, for various other reasons.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 11:01 AM
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Your fuel tank is steel.
But I like that stuff, for various other reasons.
Ah. I was unsure of the material and assumed it was aluminum. Unfortunately I'm not sure how that stuff would do on steel.

Here's their site.

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/

Interestingly enough they claim the following. I'm not sure I would want to weld on Titanium without some argon gas shielding.

"for all "non-ferrous" alloys like Aluminum, Cast Aluminum, Die Cast, Aluminum Magnesium, Pot Metal, Zinc, Copper, bronze, Brass, Titanium, Silver, Stainless, Nickel and Anodized parts."
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