1078RR stalls when throttling down abruptly - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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I already have iridium NGKs in it, recommended type.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 05:00 PM
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If it ran well previously change your plugs, iridium or otherwise. Wont be the battery. My experience with my 1078 points to that. A balance of the throttle bodies is a good idea but after the plugs are done. Carbtune Pro is a good unit and cost me roughly $150. Seen them on Amazon for $100us. Not hard but a bit of knowledge required. Trouble is that once you balance them you'll probably never use it again so I'd take it to a competent mechanic. Mine has also dropped a few coils over the years and they can play up at low revs for a while before shitting the bed.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 10:28 PM
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Hows your idle, running low? Basic stuff first.
Battery
ground
idle
connections

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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Regarding the plugs, it's all a bit shady. I know people who swear that I should only get NGKs directly from MV and basically every other NGK even from official outlets on NGK's own page are all counterfeit, therefore not good. Find it hard to believe but who knows, the ones I have are not from MV. I saw the balancing device popping up in the service area from time to time, so I'll ask around. The coils could probably do that, but I've had a whole summer going like that... how long did yours last after the first signs appeared, Deano?

As for the idle, it's always been a bit on the rougher low side compared to my 910S, about 1100 I guess, sometimes dropping just a little bit, almost stalling but then compensating with a higher rpm for a moment. My mechanics told me the idle rpms can not be changed/fixed (programmed into the ECU they say), and I never really looked into that, but the article linked above does mention a screw that does precisely that? Still however the idle has been like that since day 1 and it wasn't stalling before. Wonder if I manage to bring it up a bit and it stops stalling, will that mask the real problem? Guess I'm in for balancing anyway.

As for the rest, meaning ground and connections, I've replaced the stock battery and starter wires recently with a good wire. Any other important wires I should check?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020, 07:24 AM
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The idle is adjustable. Your MV techs know not what they talk about. It is supposed to be done using the air bleed screws on the throttle bodies....just like a lot of other EFI bikes. Read the shop manual. It is not a "ride by wire" system, or equipped with an idle air control valve (used by many other brands), so the ECU does not control idle speed.

But that isn't always enough. There is a screw on the throttle cable pulley that sets maximum throttle plate CLOSED position. It is only held by nylock type threads and the "do not touch this screw" yellow paint. That screw can creep looser over time. Turning it in will open the throttle plates and raise idle speed......it will also change the TPS setting at the same time.

I had a low idle speed and occasional stall (especially when cold) on my 910R. I finally corrected it with the throttle stop screw and a TPS reset (required the VDST software and dongle).

1100 rpm is too low. Should be 1300. Low idle speed will have a "lumpy" sound and will cause stalling. That almost stall/catch with momentary higher rpm thing you mention is the 02 sensor acting on fuel mix going lean as it near stalls.

The adjustment involving the throttle stop screw (the one on the cable pulley) is shown in the original Brutale Oro service manual. Haven't seen it elsewhere (but it may be in others).
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020, 09:19 AM
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Ed is spot on. Here are some pictures and words from the manual to help you visualize:

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While the ECU remains the same for the 1078 and the 910s, the procedure for changing the throttle position changes for the 1078. The Throttle Stop screw should still exist on the 1078 (I don't have one, so I can't check) and, if you adjust it BEFORE setting the TPS, then everything should come into line.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buck View Post
As for the rest, meaning ground and connections, I've replaced the stock battery and starter wires recently with a good wire. Any other important wires I should check?
Since you changed your cables recently it best to double-check the following for good measure:
Check the battery cable running to the engine/frame which forms your ground. Be sure surfaces are clean of any oxidation/oils. Also, recheck the cable running to your starter relay to your starter. The starter relay/solenoid connector needs to be clean as well. Dielectric grease helps prevent oxidation. --In general, keeping an eye on the health of connectors helps overall.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020, 03:05 PM
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I've had a coil drop in and out for a few weeks at low revs. Had one drop in the pissing rain near Cairns. Rode home to Townsville the next day and it came on slowly by Innisfail 90km south. Had another drop in and out in the fog and rain up the Atherton tablelands. The last two probably point to connections as others have said.

I bought a full set from Italian wrecker Cerignola Motoricambrai (?) and have one left I think. My idle is about 1200-1250rpm, a bit lumpy on start but smooth as after a minute or so. I run a Microtec from Chris at X Bikes. I buy std. NGK plugs from Supercheap Auto or a bike shop here in Oz. Same, same. Dropped a few of those too so I change them every 12 months regardless of mileage.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Oooh thanks guys! That's helpful.
A question though: what if I keep adjusting the screw and resetting the TPS in the process? Will I go into an infinite loop of adjustments or is that mentioned only because they don't want you to reset TPS on new bikes with no mileage on them? But if it does matter and I screw something up with adjustments, how do I get it all back to the original setup?
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 07:23 AM
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You will not fall into an endless loop of adjustments with the idle speed and TPS.

Once you get the idle speed correct (and suggest using an electronic tachometer or the VDST software to read the idle RPM...NOT the tach on the bike, it is not particularly accurate) set the TPS and you are done.

Idle speed won't change when the TPS is adjusted.

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