When I first picked up my 312R I got stuck in a Melbourne traffic jam on a warm day and had overheating issues 120C+.
Based on what I found on the forum one of the first things I did was install a manual fan switch. I also flushed the radiator and changed to Penrite race coolant
On our first 30C+ day recently I decided to see if turning the fans on at 80C would stop the overheating. Unfortunately although it slowed the temperature continued to rise and at 110C coolant was discharged. I found that the water pump inlet hose had disconnected. Maybe I didn't put it back properly when I replaced the leaking seal.
The next day I reconnected the water pump hose and checked the coolant level. Strangely the level seemed to be higher than normal. I started the bike to check for leaks. The dash kept flashing --- less than 50C. I then noticed the fans had turned on automatically so I quickly shut it down.
Once it had cooled down I found the coolant level was still high. I checked the coolant at the water pump drain and found very little. The coolant didn't seem to be getting from the tank to the pump. I tried blowing back along the hose from the tank. Blocked. Dismantled everything and removed the coolant tank and found coppery goo.
Flush the radiator again. I assume the previous owner used Stop Leak when he had radiator leak.
I had fitted one of Joes brackets. While it was all apart based on the forum I decided to fit an extra Ducati 1098 fan. I tried to remove the Ducati brackets without much success and didn't see the point in replacing them. I wanted the brackets to support the radiator. I only had some aluminium sheet so bent it into "[" section and laminated to strengthen. I wouldn't have believed how long it took me to get them right.
Put it all together soon and see what happens. Hopefully I haven't cooked something.

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The single most important thing you can do to reduce "excessive heat" is tune the ignition tables of your 5SM ECU.

It looks like the P.O. did you no favors by using a stop leak product in the rad.

Getting rid of the catalyst and installing a MV Race ECU provided the greatest relief to high operating temps on my 312R. I added the MV high output water impeller which may have helped a little, and the Muzzy fans prevented the issue of melted fan blades. Other than that, just don't come to a stop - keep moving to keep air flowing!

Haven’t yet been able to find anyone near me to tune ECU.



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Hi

You need to make sure you bleed, or burp, the cooling system properly to remove all the air once it is all back together.

If the system has had stop leak in it you may need to run it initially with some sort of coolant system flush to get rid of it.

Have fibreglass wrapped headers to reduce heat to fan blades and belly pan. Metal fan blades hard to source in Oz. Race ECU maybe next. $. Would much prefer to keep moving but want to be prepared if I get caught again.


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I got a 1098 fan from ebay for about $50 making it the most cost effective option.
At this stage I have just connected it to the existing fan.
Fired it up without the fairing and switched the fans on at 80C. Temperature started to come down and stabilized at 75C. Put the fairing back on and repeated the test. Temperature didn't drop but stabilized at 80C. Obviously modified fairing would help but not ready to hack into them yet or lash out on Catalyst fairings. However it was a pretty cool day so will have to wait until it warms up a bit to test properly. Will see what happens before tracking down someone who can tune or replace ECU.

The "Race" ECU is simply a remapped Magneti Marelli 5SM ECU that has the Lambda Sensor input disabled. It is also remapped for a free flowing exhaust. I do not know if it has any changes to the ignition timing from thestock 5SM ECU.

In my opinion, it is a waste of money as it will still have to be mapped for your bike. Anyone that can do that can also map your current ECu to the same, or better, standard.

Options exist that include send in your ECu this way, having mapped to a better base map, and returning it to you.

In addition, the Microtec ECU is a great solution.

Yeah I didn't mean to imply that the MV Race ECU in and of itself has any bearing on achieving lower operating temps. As Chuck said, it (or equivalent mapping) is recommended once you eliminate the catalyst. I feel like removing the catalyst did make an impact on lowering operating temps somewhat though.

I have had ceramic coated and wrapped headers. When a temp gun was put on the headers they were actually hotter with wrap over ceramic than with ceramic alone. I assume this is because the wrap holds heat in. The ceramic coating stops alot of heat getting into the pipes and what does get into the pipes is allowed t dissipate normally. I removed the wrap and things seem alot better.

And this was all noticeable on a 750 which does not have the same heat problems as your model.

Edit: With your manual fan mod I find it best to manually turn on the fan before coming to a stop in traffic/lights etc.eg from 60kph The forward momentum and the fans blow out alot of hot air before the stop then. It helps keep you in front pf the heat problem.