Battery indicator on, weird engine sound, loss of power - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Battery indicator on, weird engine sound, loss of power

Hi everyone,

Something weird is happening to my Brutale 910S. I guess the best way to describe the issue would be to post the timeline of events.

1. I had an issue where the starter was clicking but not turning the engine. Replaced the starter solenoid with the Yamaha one ( as per this thread - https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-ma...ter-relay.html). Although the relay I received had the fuse on the right side (and the extra wire as well). So when I replaced it, I also reversed the wire connections (see the attached pic).

2. The bike was running well, thought I did not ride it. So started it a few times to check that replacing the relay has fixed the problem.

3. A eek later I tried to start it and realised that the battery is dead. I don't ride the bike a lot (maybe once in a month or so) so I thought this might be ok.

4. Connected the battery to the charger for 15min thinking that it might be enough for the bike to start and then it will recharge as I'm riding.

5. After 15min of charging the battery, the bike did start normally but the battery indicator was on. I thought this was fine as had it turning on a few times before when I started the bike after not riding it for weeks. usually, it would go off after 10-20 minutes of riding

6. I went for a ride, but after a few minutes of riding, the dash display turned off, dash lights blinked a few times and then the engine stopped. When I turned the ignition off an on again - everything looked normal, except that the battery looked almost dead and the engine wasn't turning

7. Recharged the battery again (though it is weird that the charger showed "fully charged" after an hour of charging. Took it to a Battery World shop, they tested it and said it is good working condition

8. Now, the main issue that after all that the bike starts, but the battery indicator is on, the engine sounds like a muffled tractor and the bike has like 20% of it's power (feels like the engine is misfiring or something like that)

Any suggestions please ?

I have no idea how to tackle this
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 01:13 AM
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Id still say its the battery.

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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 06:00 AM
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I'd say that when you rewired the relay, you now have a permanent drain on the battery through the relay.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 09:45 AM
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There is another possibility...although I would check key off current draw first to eliminate Chuck's idea. The alternator is driven by a cushioned drive system. If the rubber elements of that have failed the engine will not spin the alternator enough to keep the battery charged.

This would explain charge system warning light being on when engine is running, and slow loss of charge while riding, and odd noises.

Do you own a volt/ohm/amp meter? Check charging voltage when engine is at idle (14.5+), check key off amperage across main fuse (take it out and insert meter probes in fuse connectors), should be low millivolts (less than 10).

Low charge at idle is an alternator problem (maybe the cush drive?), high key off current draw is am electrical fault somewhere (maybe the relay wiring?).

Good luck.

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the device, might be the time to buy one!

What is the worst case scenario if I try to swap the 2 wires that are connected to the relay ? Is there a chance of frying something ?

And how do I check the charging voltage? Just connect the tips of the voltmeter to +/- of the battery while the bike is running ?
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashxx View Post
I don't have the device, might be the time to buy one!

What is the worst case scenario if I try to swap the 2 wires that are connected to the relay ? Is there a chance of frying something ?

And how do I check the charging voltage? Just connect the tips of the voltmeter to +/- of the battery while the bike is running ?

Volt/Ohm meters are quite cheap.
Set the meter to 20volts
Place the probes red to positive side of battery.
Black to negative side of the battery.
Record the voltage without the motor running.
Start the motor record the voltage at idle.
Rev the bike to around 3000rpm and record that voltage.
Then let us know the figures.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
The alternator is driven by a cushioned drive system. If the rubber elements of that have failed the engine will not spin the alternator enough to keep the battery charged.
.
Ed;
Look at page G 14 of the Brutale Parts Manual
The 2, 4 bladed parts of the cush drive interlock, the rubber just keeps them from beating each other up
Someone recently posted that the bolt #7 backed out and there was a random noise.....
I think it was one of the Dutch or English guys

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashxx View Post
Hi everyone,

Something weird is happening to my Brutale 910S. I guess the best way to describe the issue would be to post the timeline of events.

1. I had an issue where the starter was clicking but not turning the engine. Replaced the starter solenoid with the Yamaha one ( as per this thread - https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-ma...ter-relay.html). Although the relay I received had the fuse on the right side (and the extra wire as well). So when I replaced it, I also reversed the wire connections (see the attached pic).

2. The bike was running well, thought I did not ride it. So started it a few times to check that replacing the relay has fixed the problem.

3. A eek later I tried to start it and realised that the battery is dead. I don't ride the bike a lot (maybe once in a month or so) so I thought this might be ok.

4. Connected the battery to the charger for 15min thinking that it might be enough for the bike to start and then it will recharge as I'm riding.

5. After 15min of charging the battery, the bike did start normally but the battery indicator was on. I thought this was fine as had it turning on a few times before when I started the bike after not riding it for weeks. usually, it would go off after 10-20 minutes of riding

6. I went for a ride, but after a few minutes of riding, the dash display turned off, dash lights blinked a few times and then the engine stopped. When I turned the ignition off an on again - everything looked normal, except that the battery looked almost dead and the engine wasn't turning

7. Recharged the battery again (though it is weird that the charger showed "fully charged" after an hour of charging. Took it to a Battery World shop, they tested it and said it is good working condition

8. Now, the main issue that after all that the bike starts, but the battery indicator is on, the engine sounds like a muffled tractor and the bike has like 20% of it's power (feels like the engine is misfiring or something like that)

Any suggestions please ?

I have no idea how to tackle this
Looking at your diagram I think you may have bought the wrong relay as the one I bought was wired correctly as per the MV pic , the solenoid actuator the smaller wires are wired internally different . it uses an early FZ6 relay.


A quick test would be to swap the B to M and see what it doehttps://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-maintenance-tech-issues-all-4-cyl-models/215073-buy-cheap-buy-twice-old-chestnut.htmls.

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Last edited by AgustaRod; 07-06-2019 at 07:12 AM. Reason: added link
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashxx View Post
I don't have the device, might be the time to buy one!

What is the worst case scenario if I try to swap the 2 wires that are connected to the relay ? Is there a chance of frying something ?

And how do I check the charging voltage? Just connect the tips of the voltmeter to +/- of the battery while the bike is running ?
AS you issue started when you installed the new solenoid, the old mechanic's adage says that is the source of the issue. You stated you swapped the wiring before you installed the initial solenoid, yes? Pictures of teh solenoid would be helpful as there should be a mimic of the device internals on one side of it.

For running voltage, BLACK lead to NEGATIVE, RED lead to POSITIVE and bike at 5000 rpm or so.

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 05:04 PM
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Crashxx;
A clicking solenoid is either a low battery or loose/dirty connection.......
Clean all the connections ......put dielectric grease on all connections
Check the 40Amp fuse with an Ohm meter
Put the original solenoid back on

Bet it works
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