After fuel pump change engine stalls - Page 3 - MVAgusta.net
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:09 AM
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@Ziga_SLO: Please put the model and year of your bike in your signature line.....or at least use the year and model in every post....

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:13 AM
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Start with checking Fuse 13. Actually pull the fuse and check continuity.

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:21 AM
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From the manual:

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This diagram shows FUSE 15 controls the injectors and pump; the specific wiring diagram for your year and model shows FUSE 13.

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
Attachment 464183


This diagram shows FUSE 15 controls the injectors and pump; the specific wiring diagram for your year and model shows FUSE 13.

Attachment 464185
Thank you SS703 for your reply. I would give you an feedback, as soon as I get to the bike. I have attached the fuses list for the 750S.

BR,

Ziga
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 11:29 AM
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You need to use submersible hose inside and injection hose outside.

Are your elbow fuel connectors snapping into position ok ? Have you changed these fuel connectors recently ? There have been issues with cheap connectors having O rings that swell and cut off the fuel supply from the tank to injector rail.

Before stripping the tank out check the electrical connection of the fuel pump.

I once had a very similar problem to yours and it eventually was diagnosed as a loose battery ground cable not making proper contact.

Best of luck

Joe
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Joe.

I have bought the CPC Connectors 3 years ago, as my plastic ones have broken. I have had an issue with one of the O-Rings but managed to change it, and now I think they are working ok.

What do you mean with the hoses, I didn't get that? I ordered new one, but I'm planning to use the SAE J30R10 hose (8mm diameter inside) in and out of the tank, as they are more durable as the R9. Would that be ok?

And also with that, I'm going to look into the electrical wiring of the pump housing, as I have red in other posts, that this is the common couse of the fuel pump problems. As also the SS703 mentioned, I'm going to make the fuses test. If this 3 things wouldn't solve the problem, there is only one thing from my point of view, to send the ECU for a check. Or are there any other suggestions?

I have as well tested the power supply to the pump connector, turning the ignition on and off multiple times, and the 12 volts were always at the disposal.

BR,

Ziga

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziga_SLO View Post
Thanks for the reply Joe.

I have bought the CPC Connectors 3 years ago, as my plastic ones have broken. I have had an issue with one of the O-Rings but managed to change it, and now I think they are working ok.

What do you mean with the hoses, I didn't get that? I ordered new one, but I'm planning to use the SAE J30R10 hose (8mm diameter inside) in and out of the tank, as they are more durable as the R9. Would that be ok?

And also with that, I'm going to look into the electrical wiring of the pump housing, as I have red in other posts, that this is the common couse of the fuel pump problems. As also the SS703 mentioned, I'm going to make the fuses test. If this 3 things wouldn't solve the problem, there is only one thing from my point of view, to send the ECU for a check. Or are there any other suggestions?

I have as well tested the power supply to the pump connector, turning the ignition on and off multiple times, and the 12 volts were always at the disposal.

BR,

Ziga
Ziga, please don't use J30 R10 outside the tank. It is designed to work inside the tank submerged in fuel where it stays cooler.

It's not rated for the high temperatures under your tank on top of the engine.

I used to supply Gates 5/16 inch Barricade fuel injection hose for the fuel hoses from fuel pump plate to injection rail. you need under 700mm in total.
I am a bit suspicious of the O ring you replaced in the CPC connectors. What material type is it ? and where did you get the O ring and where did you get the CPC connectors ?

I don't think it is anything to do with your ecu.

Ziga, Please could you check your battery at rest.

If it reads 12v its flat.

Mine reads 12.77Volt

Joe
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Last edited by gotojoe; 06-18-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys,

I'll first answer the questions of Joe and then update you on the status.

O bought the CPC connectors (male and female) from USA, the seals were genuine until now wehn I bought the ones, that had the same specs as the one from McCansey&Car, that were written on this forum.

The status of the bike is as the following:
I had time to clean the fuel pump connectors, that come from the base plate. I have tested the fuses, I turned the ignition on, took all the fuses out and put it back in one by one. Nothing changed the pump didn't prime amd for the first time it also didn't want to turn. Then I tried kill switch, the stand switch, put it in the gear and back on, turned ignition on and off. And all of a sudden as I turned the ignition on, as if something would have been different in the ignition lock, it primed and started.

Today later in the evening, I tried a couple of times and it primed and also started. So now I'm confused. My next tip would be the relays, but I forgot to mentioned, that after I bought the bike with the old SPU, I bought the new one and changed it. Is there any way to test the relays?

Thanks for you feedbacks and ideas. I'm really happy to have you guys here, to help me and each other.

Cheers,

Ziga

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys, I want to give you a little update. I checked once more all of the connections to the fuel pump ans I think I found the solution to my problems.

I checked the connetor to the fuel pump plate (that I have checked a couple of times before) and found out, that the middle female connectors look really bad (picture in the attachment). So I changed it and today I'm going on a test drive, and see if this helped. Will gove you an updated as soon as I get back.

Cheers,

Ziga
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:58 AM
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