Seized rear F4 Hub- advice please - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:40 PM
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@Chilblane Your hub is not likely to have any problems unless it is neglected/abused, or you over-tighten the chain and/or swing arm pinch bolts.

If you inserted a wedge (with fully loosened pinch bolts) into the swing arm and expanded the pinch point just a tiny bit you should be able to get the hub to move. May need an extension on the tool kit spanner, and maybe smack that extension with a mallet.

But it will move. If it was seized solid you would also have massive corrosion in many other areas.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
@Chilblane: Since your bike appears to be a 2016, the initial hub issues have been sorted out with a redesign. Not to queer a deal for Mitchy's excellent hub...which doe s work in your bike...but , rather to set your mind at ease.

The first gen hubs had major issues if people didn't maintain the hub.
Not sorted just less likely to seize. If you do enough kms on the new gen hub the spacers wear and the hub nips up. MV don't do hubs or headlights. Original hub seizure at 5000k, second gen hub spacers rooted at 45000k. I bought a Mitchy hub to finally lay this problem to rest.

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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@Chilblane Your hub is not likely to have any problems unless it is neglected/abused, or you over-tighten the chain and/or swing arm pinch bolts.

If you inserted a wedge (with fully loosened pinch bolts) into the swing arm and expanded the pinch point just a tiny bit you should be able to get the hub to move. May need an extension on the tool kit spanner, and maybe smack that extension with a mallet.

But it will move. If it was seized solid you would also have massive corrosion in many other areas.
Thank you, I have tried a 3 foot long tube over the extension bar, which has almost disfigured its shape (the C ring) and still no success. I have soaked it gain overnight so hope today will bring some success. I appreciate your thoughts and silentservice in trying to save me expense where it may not be necessary. I will let you know the outcome

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Last edited by Chilblane; 03-13-2019 at 02:45 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 03:24 AM
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Never mind the tiny bit. Get a fox wedge (or two) and drive them in the slots where the hub bolts were removed. Once the wedges have opened the gap 20-30 thou there's nothing that can stop it coming out. Don't keep trying to turn it, that's just more damage and frustration. Take the sprocket, brake caliper, hub circlip off etc. and tap it out with a hardwood or brass drift. Then you can clean it all up properly and service the hub.

Cheers

Deano
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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Never mind the tiny bit. Get a fox wedge (or two) and drive them in the slots where the hub bolts were removed. Once the wedges have opened the gap 20-30 thou there's nothing that can stop it coming out. Don't keep trying to turn it, that's just more damage and frustration. Take the sprocket, brake caliper, hub circlip off etc. and tap it out with a hardwood or brass drift. Then you can clean it all up properly and service the hub.

Cheers

Deano
Hi Deano

Yes that was my next step... in the removal of sprocket, calliper etc. Just got to find a way of supporting the back end of the bike safely, I have previously supported the bikes front end off of my garage roof timbers with a block and tackle ropes etc. Just an inconvenient distraction to the real job at hand. Thank you for all your tips most appreciated

Cheers

John

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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 08:42 AM
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Straps from beams above works well for the rear as well.

Put the bike on the rear stand, attach your straps, remove the rear stand.

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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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I have had some success this morning and managed to move the hub fractionally. I am now of the opinion that the hub is not seized by corrosion, as on very close inspection it looks to me as though it is not sitting square in the swingarm. Although difficult to photograph close up, the picture with swingarm slot was taken after setting the pinch bolts to 25Nm and is clearly uneven by 2mm from a feeler gauge placed perpendicular to each bolt. In addition the gap between the teeth on the hub varies axially by 2.5mm at positions between 10 to 3 o'clock on the hub, taken inside the teeth of hub to swingarm body. I recall the gap/slot was never that uneven before I attempted to adjust chain so effectively the hub must have been over torqued by at least 1 bolt and the gap was considerably smaller, than as adjusted today. Therefore is it likely to have damaged the hub anyway?

As a recent newcomer to MV is it possible to badly fit a hub out of square in the swingarm, in other words is there that much clearance? as yet I do not know what the fit should be like, sloppy, or in my mind like a piston in a cylinder would be preferable before tensioning.

In addition and another puzzle to me is as you notice the chain was dealer replaced when I purchased the bike, I find it hard to comprehend that the dealer managed to fit the chain without having the same problem with adjustment, if of course the problem was there at the time. Well the next step is to get the hub out and see whats what. Any comments greatly appreciated
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Straps from beams above works well for the rear as well.

Put the bike on the rear stand, attach your straps, remove the rear stand.
Thank you, Yes my thoughts exactly, thats my job for this afternoon

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:03 AM
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It is unlikely, due to construction characteristics, that the hub is cocked in the swingarm unless something is seriously wrong.

Now, as for your torquing process: Do torque in small steps following the 1-2-1 protocol?

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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 09:04 AM
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Take the hub out. It is a machined cylinder in a machined bore (swing arm) and it should be impossible to have it anything but square. Regardless of your observation of the pinch area gap.

Take the pinch bolts out completely. Stick a wedge in (plastic or wood won't damage the swing arm) and spread that gap. Knock the hub out with a block of hard wood and a heavy hammer. (I had to do that the first time I serviced my rear hub)

It is not rocket science. Pretty basic stuff. The parts (other than the angular bearing) are pretty robust.

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