Oil change - drain the oil cooler? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 04:01 AM Thread Starter
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Oil change - drain the oil cooler?

Has anybody gone to the trouble of doing this when changing the oil on a gen 2 bike? The manuals don't mention doing it and the sealing arrangement on the hoses means it wouldn't be the easiest to do which cooled my enthusiasm for the task. It would be best to have replacement sealing rings already to hand!

It looks like the lines and cooler would hold around one third of a liter of oil which is not a large part of the total capacity. The top half of the cooler may drain back through the engine given enough time.

Any views out there?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 09:37 AM
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Never did this. And I got almost 3 liters of oil back after draining. Considering some losses I believe that most is drained. Plus oil stays very clear for a long time after change.

But this is just my experience.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 03:02 PM
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If you dont want to drain the cooler make gravity to the job. Try and get the front wheel up in the air so the oil falls back in the engine compartment...
Or so it seems to work in my brain :P after 20 minutes or so put front wheel back on ground and let it drain out...??

Let me know how it works haha. Im doing a oil change very soon and not planning on disconnecting the oil cooler.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 03:52 PM
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I generally don't bother with this as my oil change intervals are short and I'm using Mob 1 which doesn't oxidize and keeps crap in suspension more effectively than fossil oils. May be wise if you are changing weights or to/from synthetic but, otherwise, the risk is greater than any potential benefit IMHO.

Sealing washers are also a once and done affair and should be replaced if disturbed. And I would include rubber compound seals here also. BelMetric https://www.belmetric.com/ has a plethora of sealing washers, including the more rare hollow copper jobs that actually crush under torque which is as it should be. The alum jobs are the worst, and I have seen many a steel fill/drain plug strip out the (usually alum) parent housing from over torqueing on an alum crush washer, which don't really crush much at all.

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