F4 750 fuel pump dead/injector - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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F4 750 fuel pump dead/injector

I have owned a 2001 750 for around 15 years and it developed a problem a few months ago.

No, 2 cylinder was not firing so I did the usual checks and I think it looked to be the injector, but in taking the tank off and on a few times, one of the "o" rings on the fuel pipe started leaking, and silentservice703 very kindly donated new ones for me (thanks again). With the new o ring on I proceeded to join the tank back up and went and broke the plastic quick release fitting so I couldn't fire up the bike. I ordered a new fitting and low and behold 2 months later and still no fitting, so I bought a second hand set of throttle bodies with fuel pipes and metal quick release fittings for just over the price of one plastic fitting, bargain!!

Anyway I fitted the new throttle bodies as that would maybe prove that an injector was broken (in my original throttle bodies) if all 4 cylinders were firing.

I refitted the tank with no airbox just to fire it up but the fuel pump did not prime, therefore it would not start.

I have had look through a good few of the posts in here, through the workshop manual and tried a few things.

Just to confirm, I have connected a battery to no.1 and 2 connections on the tank side of the connector in the picture, but the pump did not kick in, so i'm thinking that I need to strip it??


Has anyone measured the voltage on the other side of the connector with the keys on, the picture shows the voltage that I measured with the G being - negative wire on my multimeter.

Between 1 and G..... when I switch on the keys initially I get a quick 12.5v for a split second then I hear a click from the latch relay and the volts go back to zero.

Between 3 and G reads 12.6v

Between 4 and G reads 11.5v


It seems strange that 1 and G would not stay at 12.6v to power the fuel pump, I did check the latch and power relay's as per workshop manual and they seem to be fine.

Any help at the moment would be good, before I start stripping more components, just incase its something obvious that I have missed.

Kev.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 08:34 AM
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The pump gets a run signal for three seconds before the ECU shuts the signal off.

When all interlocks are satisfied for an engine start, the ECU will pass a run signal to the pump.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
The pump gets a run signal for three seconds before the ECU shuts the signal off.

When all interlocks are satisfied for an engine start, the ECU will pass a run signal to the pump.

I read this in the manual, which I thought was strange that I only got 12.6v for a split second until the latch relay clicked in again, but maybe it has a signal that the pump is not drawing any current and shuts the power off????


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 12:16 PM
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No....the ECU shuts the pump off after priming until there is a signal that the engine is turning (starter button signal and crank position signal).

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 10:29 PM
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Thumbs up ?

kevjayney;
Pull the pump and put 12v to the correct terminals (not the thermister ones)
Either it works or not, if it works, it's the harness
If it doesn't, you found the problem
Replacement pumps are available on eBay for $20-30


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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kevjayney;
Pull the pump and put 12v to the correct terminals (not the thermister ones)
Either it works or not, if it works, it's the harness
If it doesn't, you found the problem
Replacement pumps are available on eBay for $20-30

Knurl,

Yes, just checking all angles before I rip this out of the tank, just seems strange that everything is failing at the same time, once I get rid of these pesky grandchildren this weekend i'll strip out the pump.


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 08:48 PM
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kevjayney;
Plan on replacing the fuel filter and the lines inside the tank at the same time

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
kevjayney;
Plan on replacing the fuel filter and the lines inside the tank at the same time
Fully !

What I originally was a far more complex issue was simply solved with changing the fuel filter...something had found its way into the fuel system (in my case)

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Just a small update, I stripped the pump out and found these two plastic items in the tank??? The big part is about 1 inch diameter. The pump is dead, hoses are like jelly, so it have ordered new pump and filter. I haven't got a clue what the spare parts are, maybe the previous owner?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 06:11 AM
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If you have trouble sourcing the correct J30R10 simmersible hoses, send me a PM.

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