Dreaded Side Stand Oil Leak - Need Advice - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Dreaded Side Stand Oil Leak - Need Advice

So I have had the well-known side-stand related oil leak a couple of times in the past and have always been able to loosen the sump bolts and then re-tighten to the small torque and the leak stops. This time, I tried it twice and the bike still leaks - even without running it. I let the bike sit for 36 hours and when I went to look, there was a sheen of oil. I keep it pretty clean so it is obvious the oil leak is coming from right above where the side stand bolts in. When I first learned about this issue years ago, I started using my rear stand when parked at home, but I ride to work everyday, so I still get a lot of use out of the side stand.


Anyway, I am in the process of removing the sump to see if the gasket is still okay and I've removed the exhaust enough to get access (yes, I still have the original exhaust, convertor and all - and this is the first time I have removed it! Not looking forward to trying to fit it back on.) and have removed all 14 bolts. I am having trouble pulling the sump down. Any suggestions? The only reference to sump removal in the manual has the engine removed from the bike; I just had to figure out that I had to remove the exhaust, rear brake lever/master cylinder, etc. I can get the sump to separate a little by using the small space above the side stand bolt holes and using a large screw driver to kind of leverage it a little, but there doesn't seem to be anywhere else around the edge to pry it a apart and obviously I don't want to damage anything.



Any help would be appreciated.


By the way, the Brutale is about to hit 48,000 miles (77,000 km)!

Chris
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 07:23 PM
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Tap with a plastic mallet !!!???

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 07:37 PM
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There is one bolt hidden up in the pan area where a cable comes out. Make sure you got that one. Then like Ed says. Use a rubber mallet.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-18-2018, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I have now tried the mallet, though exactly how and where to tap, I am not sure. There are a couple of places where there is a sturdy looking tab-like protrusion and I've set a piece of wood against it and then tapped the wood with a mallet, but still nothing. I did not remove that one bolt as it didn't look like it was necessary, but I removed it now and the sump cover still won't come off.


It's probably just 10 years of never being removed since first assembly and I just need to keep trying. There just doesn't seem to be a good way to get a hold of it.


Thanks, guys for the suggestions. I feel silly, but I don't want to mess it up either.

Chris
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 01:36 AM
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Don't feel silly mate. I (we) respect people having a safe and measured go themselves.

I have performed this gasket replacement once (F4). I don't recall the oil pan being particularly difficult to remove. As you can see there is a significant surface area for the gasket to seal.
Once removed you'll likely find that the gasket is munted along the section where side stand is located.

I have attached a pic of a spare gasket. I can see 15 bolt holes in the gasket, 14 around the outside and one sneaky where Andrew identified it - remembering that the gasket shown is for a first gen F4.

You'll note that the gasket has a red line along the mating surfaces. I believe that this sealant is what's causing the stiction. A gentle persuasion is what's needed to convince it to seperate. I have little doubt that you'll require a replacement gasket so it would be a good idea to order one if you are going to seperate the oil pan from the engine.
Oh yeah - please forgive me for asking but - you have drained the oil right?
Good luck.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 02:13 AM
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Something is holding it, it should just pop of with gentle tap!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 07:01 AM
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David and The Gang are spot on.

There are many contact points and a couple of protuberances that will hold the sump pan in place after years of use.

Gentle persuasion with a mallet and a wooden dowel will eventually release the pan...provided you removed all of the holding bolts.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I drained the oil !


I assume the "sneaky" bolt is the one identified as #50 in the diagram that holds a metal shield covering the area that the wire goes into? It is a different length than the rest of the bolts. I have removed that for a total of 15 bolts.


Thanks for the feedback. I will tackle this again when I get back this afternoon and hopefully have success.

Chris
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Found it!

I found the actual sneaky bolt. After thinking about it some more, I thought the 15th bolt I removed couldn't be the sneaky one, it just wasn't long enough. So I went back and just started feeling around the entire bottom of pan and I finally found the sneaky bolt. Remove it and voila! the pan is coming down with hardly any effort at all.


And, yes, I am going to have to order a new gasket. The one on there is literally breaking apart and brittle. It is especially shot around the kick stand area. Other areas it simply broke while pulling the pan down. Looks like I'll be bicycling to work for a couple of weeks.


Thanks everyone for the help. I appreciate it.

Chris
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 11:43 PM
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lc_brutale;
Just use a very light coat of RTV silicone on the pan......on very clean surfaces.....I wipe them with lacquer thinner,
clean up a ways inside the crankcase
Screw the gasket

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