Horrible idling and riding - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 04:24 PM
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Looked at the videos posted.
Your idle sounds absolutely normal, particularly when you leave the throttle alone.

I would strongly suggest you need to do some reading of the workshop manuals. They are available on Donsy’s website. Search on the forum for the link.
In there, you will find a flowchart that outlines what conditions are necessary for the bike to do something when the start button is pressed.
It is important and will be a lot faster to resolve the issues if you approach them in a controlled way - diagnose the issue by investigation, THEN take action to fix whatever has been identified as faulty.
Jumping straight to a conclusion is not the way to do things.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 06:54 PM
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I cant speak to the idle issue but based on the amount of corrosion on various bits of hardware, it would be a good idea to ensure all of the electrical bits are clean and making good contact. Your starting issue could well be corrosion on the start button contacts.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Could be a vacuum leak for the horrible idling?? But if my knowledge is right I think the bike not starting is another issue unrelated to the idling
Yeah the bad idling started way before the starter started giving issues. I'm mainly concerned about the idling as I've never dealt with something like this before. If it is a vacuum leak I would assume you would call it a "boot"? Or what would be the proper naming for such a part so I can order it.

Unfortunately in my country (South Africa) services on MV is a clown show and parts I have to order through StartTwin.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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I cant speak to the idle issue but based on the amount of corrosion on various bits of hardware, it would be a good idea to ensure all of the electrical bits are clean and making good contact. Your starting issue could well be corrosion on the start button contacts.
Funny though because there is corrosion all over this bike. Previous owner clearly didn't take great care over it. I will go through the manual thoroughly and most definitely check every electrical cable and point.

Thanks for the advice. I'll post an update on Monday first thing.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 02:14 PM
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@ManicDray: Firstly, your idle is normal. It may be a tad low and you should sync your throttle bodies per the manual, then reset your TPS setting and all should be well.

The manuals are here: Team Double 3 Racing | MV Agusta Just scroll down to your manual and then thank Donsy and friends for a ton of work to make this available.

The starting issue will be solved by cleaning your start solenoid wiring and contacts. The solenoid is directly behind your battery box and has a spare start fuse. You may find that the connector is actually burned or melted from excessive heat generated for high resistance contacts. This is a common fault for these bikes.

Now, a word about batteries. You may think your battery is up to the task, but unless it is of high quality, fully charged, and has been recently load tested, you are fighting a problem. You need to maintain the bike on a SMART battery tender to compensate for parasitic losses that occur.

Don't "think" your battery is OK...prove it. Resting Voltage is not the best indicator.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 04:04 PM
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He has no solenoid click that I could hear, so I suspect the problem lies elsewhere, hence my pointing him in the direction of the flowchart.
Could be solenoid 4 pin connection, neutral switch, clutch switch, start button etc etc.
Since we didn’t see the key turning on bit on video, we don’t know if it even primed the fuel system.

The original poster has now had 2 people tell him that the idle is definitely not horrible, so he should not be looking for a remedy that he will not find.

Last edited by revhead1957; 06-28-2018 at 04:07 PM.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 04:17 PM
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The lack of click means lack of voltage....clean the connections. Standard problem.

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2018, 04:17 PM
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Agreed though...not enough information to make a diagnosis.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by revhead1957 View Post
He has no solenoid click that I could hear, so I suspect the problem lies elsewhere, hence my pointing him in the direction of the flowchart.
Could be solenoid 4 pin connection, neutral switch, clutch switch, start button etc etc.
Since we didn’t see the key turning on bit on video, we don’t know if it even primed the fuel system.

The original poster has now had 2 people tell him that the idle is definitely not horrible, so he should not be looking for a remedy that he will not find.
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Agreed though...not enough information to make a diagnosis.
Sorry if I havent given enough info on the topic. Not that clued up unfortunately, learning as I go along.

Trust me when I say the noise it makes in the video is a day and night difference from when I got it. When I turn the ignition on, everything is all good. Systems running and no error codes. I replaced my second ignition coil.....

Im thinking its either vacuum leak or electrical wires that are heavy corroded. I havent been able to really check everything due to parts being highly expensive for me where I live. So Im trying to make end meet with what I have and what I can do myself.

The connections are definitely something I will check out as well. Basically I just need guide lines to where the problem MIGHT be and how to resolve it even if it takes months. This way Im learning the bike at my best.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 06:24 AM
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The best way to do that is to follow the troubleshooting steps in the workshop manual at your own pace.

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