2011 Brutale 1090R Clicks and Rough Shifts - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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2011 Brutale 1090R Clicks and Rough Shifts

So I'm a new MV owner but been around my fare share of bikes through the years. Bike has 10600 miles on it. The first thing I'm running into are random bouts of not wanting to start when cold just get a click from the starter but nothing. The other issue is rather rough shifts in all gears it could just be I'm used to the clutches on my race bikes but I feel I'm having to use unnecessary force to get it to fully engage almost as bad as my Honda VTX 1800

The Click
Checked and double checked all wires including grounds
Brand new Shorai battery that has been tested (under load as well)
Is not consistent, and from time to time leaving the starter pressed it will start turning after a few seconds of silence
Only happens once or twice but bike will always start in the end
Sounds like a solenoid firing but no reaction (sound from under right side of seat)
Has no problem starting right up when hot (I'm in Florida bike hasn't seen anything colder than 50F)

Rough Shifts
Warm or cold no different
Was doing it before and after oil change (old oil was new so im told and looked good when I swapped it)
Clutch-less shifts are slightly smoother than with the clutch but still not what I would expect
Down is no smoother than up
All clutch plates look great
Slight whirring noise when idling with clutch lever out but goes away when clutch is engaged (my other bikes are silent?)
Has not popped out of gear just rough
Is this normal for the MV, and am I just being picky???

Im sure Iv'e missed a few points of trouble shooting ive done but gives you guys an idea of whats been done.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkJ.07 View Post
So I'm a new MV owner but been around my fare share of bikes through the years. Bike has 10600 miles on it. The first thing I'm running into are random bouts of not wanting to start when cold just get a click from the starter but nothing. The other issue is rather rough shifts in all gears it could just be I'm used to the clutches on my race bikes but I feel I'm having to use unnecessary force to get it to fully engage almost as bad as my Honda VTX 1800

The Click
Checked and double checked all wires including grounds
Brand new Shorai battery that has been tested (under load as well)
Is not consistent, and from time to time leaving the starter pressed it will start turning after a few seconds of silence
Only happens once or twice but bike will always start in the end
Sounds like a solenoid firing but no reaction (sound from under right side of seat)
Has no problem starting right up when hot (I'm in Florida bike hasn't seen anything colder than 50F)

Rough Shifts
Warm or cold no different
Was doing it before and after oil change (old oil was new so im told and looked good when I swapped it)
Clutch-less shifts are slightly smoother than with the clutch but still not what I would expect
Down is no smoother than up
All clutch plates look great
Slight whirring noise when idling with clutch lever out but goes away when clutch is engaged (my other bikes are silent?)
Has not popped out of gear just rough
Is this normal for the MV, and am I just being picky???

Im sure Iv'e missed a few points of trouble shooting ive done but gives you guys an idea of whats been done.
If the battery has been ruled out, the start issue sounds sticking brushes/poor contact of the brushes in your starter. Had a car do that and the starter was full of carbon from the brushes being worn down. Cleaned it out and it worked like new again. Try bypassing the starter solenoid next time it happens to isolate the issue.

Don't know about the shifting issue, how aggressive are your shifts? Maybe it just needs the Italian tune-up.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pittmeister View Post
If the battery has been ruled out, the start issue sounds sticking brushes/poor contact of the brushes in your starter. Had a car do that and the starter was full of carbon from the brushes being worn down. Cleaned it out and it worked like new again. Try bypassing the starter solenoid next time it happens to isolate the issue.

Don't know about the shifting issue, how aggressive are your shifts? Maybe it just needs the Italian tune-up.
Ill have to try that with the starter when i get back to the house this evening. As for my shifts I've tried it both aggressive as if I was on the track and slow and smooth like I was on the cruiser. same result each time.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 03:15 PM
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Not many have major issues with the solenoid or starter. The most common issue is the 4 pin plug that goes on to the solenoid. The female plugs loosen up, causing an inconsistent connection, followed by heat melting and shorting the wires out.
Pull the plug, tighten the metal connectors, lube and reconnect, ensuring that the loom has enough slack that it is not being pulled whilst out riding.

The other usual occurrence that points to this connection is the dash tripmeter resetting as you get the clicks.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkJ.07 View Post
So I'm a new MV owner but been around my fare share of bikes through the years. Bike has 10600 miles on it. The first thing I'm running into are random bouts of not wanting to start when cold just get a click from the starter but nothing. The other issue is rather rough shifts in all gears it could just be I'm used to the clutches on my race bikes but I feel I'm having to use unnecessary force to get it to fully engage almost as bad as my Honda VTX 1800

The Click
Checked and double checked all wires including grounds
Brand new Shorai battery that has been tested (under load as well)
Is not consistent, and from time to time leaving the starter pressed it will start turning after a few seconds of silence
Only happens once or twice but bike will always start in the end
Sounds like a solenoid firing but no reaction (sound from under right side of seat)
Has no problem starting right up when hot (I'm in Florida bike hasn't seen anything colder than 50F)

Rough Shifts
Warm or cold no different
Was doing it before and after oil change (old oil was new so im told and looked good when I swapped it)
Clutch-less shifts are slightly smoother than with the clutch but still not what I would expect
Down is no smoother than up
All clutch plates look great
Slight whirring noise when idling with clutch lever out but goes away when clutch is engaged (my other bikes are silent?)
Has not popped out of gear just rough
Is this normal for the MV, and am I just being picky???

Im sure Iv'e missed a few points of trouble shooting ive done but gives you guys an idea of whats been done.

Rough Shifts- What brand and viscosity engine oil are you using.
I have found some brands of oil will cause your issue.
Have you got full travel with your clutch lever and is not spongy.
Have you bled the clutch?


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Last edited by mitchy; 03-13-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchy View Post
Rough Shifts- What brand and viscosity engine oil are you using.
I have found some brands of oil will cause your issue.
Have you got full travel with your clutch lever and is not spongy.
Have you bled the clutch?
Mine varies between smooth as silk to rough as guts. I changed to Mobil 1 fully synthetic some time ago and have stuck with it since as it seemed to smooth the box out. However it goes through periods where it changes rough and not necessarily when the oil needs a change. Changes better with the rear sets too. Mind of it's own.

Cheers

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 06:52 AM
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If the 1090R has a slipper clutch, you will probably feel the shifts in the clutch lever. Oil quality does help. Make certain you have thoroughly bled the clutch.

The start click issue is probably bad connections at the start solenoid. There are many threads on the subject with pictures of melted high resistance connections. The start solenoid lives under the seat and has a spare 40 amp fuse stored on the holder. Pull that out and clean the connections and make sure the connections are tight.

The dash of the Brutale is an integral part of the electronics. There is a multi-pin connector for the dash that periodically needs to be cleaned and firmly seated. Remove the dash fairing by removing the two small bolts and the connection is obvious.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Cant thank you guys enough for all the help and input

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchy View Post
Rough Shifts- What brand and viscosity engine oil are you using.
I have found some brands of oil will cause your issue.
Have you got full travel with your clutch lever and is not spongy.
Have you bled the clutch?
Bled the clutch lever and it is smooth as can be with very positive resistance so I'm 90% sure it's good. The oil I'm using is the Motul 10w60

Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
If the 1090R has a slipper clutch, you will probably feel the shifts in the clutch lever. Oil quality does help. Make certain you have thoroughly bled the clutch.

The start click issue is probably bad connections at the start solenoid. There are many threads on the subject with pictures of melted high resistance connections. The start solenoid lives under the seat and has a spare 40 amp fuse stored on the holder. Pull that out and clean the connections and make sure the connections are tight.

The dash of the Brutale is an integral part of the electronics. There is a multi-pin connector for the dash that periodically needs to be cleaned and firmly seated. Remove the dash fairing by removing the two small bolts and the connection is obvious.
I'm going to go check on all the connectors again then, maybe I overlooked something. I'm used to slippers from all my race bikes and this has a completely different feel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by revhead1957 View Post
Not many have major issues with the solenoid or starter. The most common issue is the 4 pin plug that goes on to the solenoid. The female plugs loosen up, causing an inconsistent connection, followed by heat melting and shorting the wires out.
Pull the plug, tighten the metal connectors, lube and reconnect, ensuring that the loom has enough slack that it is not being pulled whilst out riding.

The other usual occurrence that points to this connection is the dash tripmeter resetting as you get the clicks.
The dash has been performing flawlessly so I'm lucky there (knock on wood). I do want to delve back into it and run through all the wires again and make sure I didn't overlook anything now though.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update the clicking at start was a bad connection with the starter solenoid. A lot of love and some dielectric grease and she's happy as can be on startup. Now the bad news, shifts have gotten no better and after another bath what I thought to be road grime is the smallest hint of an oil leak somewhere. It's on the left side of the motor dripping down to the exhaust bracket and after about a week has enough built up to finely form a droplet and hit my garage floor. All bolts on the bottom of the oil pan are snug and I can't seem to find anywhere around the seal on the bottom half of the motor where it could be originating from.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 02:33 PM
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That is because the originating point will be the valve cover gasket.

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