Brutale 990 - numerous common issues solved + issues remaining - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Brutale 990 - numerous common issues solved + issues remaining

Hi guys,

Before anything, I own a 2010 brutale 990R, mileage : 7100 km

I've had several issues since I got the bike. I solved a part of them working on my bike this saturday, hope you'll help me for the rest.

Quick summary :

1. Radiator smoking (ok that's really not a big deal but still) [SOLVED]
2. Indicators blinking too fast [MOSTLY SOLVED]
3. Warm starting => doesn't start easily[MAYBE SOLVED ?]
4. RPM needle "stucked" / showing wrong RPM [SOLVED]


1. Radiator smoking

This is actually uncommon, and certainly due to the fact that I tend to worry too much.
I had a radiator smoking and it seemed to leak. Actually it was completly normal, but I wasn't used to riding on rainy days with this motorbike so it wasn't normal for me. Nothing to worry about !
Here's the video :
www[DOT]youtuDOT]be[com/watch?v=wtHZoY4B1RA&feature=youtu.be

2. Indicators blinking too fast

So this one is still not completly solved.
I changed the OEM indicators (integrated in mirrors) to the KOBRA handguards with indicators in it by SW-Motech. As many of you I thought "alright i've got led indicators, I'll take some other led indicators and everything's gonna be fine" we, it didn't, as I had that fast blinking issue.

The thing is that it was blinking too fast, but once I pushed the hazard warning lights, they would blink at the correct rate.

As advised by other members, I ordered these resistors : www[DOT]ebay[DOT]com/itm/2x-LED-CANBUS-NO-ERROR-LOAD-RESISTOR-4w-5w-6w-W5W-T10-T4W-BA9S-H6W-BAX9S-FESTOON/300682920786?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

And installed them in parallel, one per blinker.

They do not get warm too fast (indicators ON during 4 minutes, still not very hot) so I installed them just behind the headlight.

[SOLVED] : The blinkers now blink at a legal rate, which is pretty cool
[NEW PROBLEM ] THe hazard warning lights don't work anymore. When I press the button, I can see a quick blinker light on the dashboard, but instantly turns off. Once I get there nothing works anymore and I have to turn the switch Off/on to get blinkers working again.


3.Warm starting => doesn't start


The issue :www[DOT]youtube[DOT]com/watch?v=E0Sy0Ts5WYo
I'm going straight to the point : I ordered motoelectric HICAP 3 leads which costed me a lot of money, and the problem is only partially solved, so yes I'm pissed off.

Explanations :
So I've been having this issue since I bought the bike. I was used to stop the engine at red traffics lights (owned a yamaha fz6 from 2004 before) and I couldn't with this one because it won't start easily if warm.

I decided to change those leads, and at the same time I changed the spark plugs for iridium ones and cleaned the air filter.

Improvments ?

The bike really cracks faster, that's a fact. When I depart from home (the bike sleeps in a public garage) it starts easily even with -10 C.
Does it start easily if warm ? Fucking NO.

Details and what I think :

When I depart from work, so after the bike being out for the whole day with temperatures below -10 + wind, the bike is really, really hard to start. Also, if the bike is warm enough to activate the fan, it's also hard to start.
So what I'm actually thinking is that the battery is weak (even if it's not an OEM, you can see what battery it is in the pictures below) and when current is drained from the fan OR cold weakens the battery, the bike will be hard to start even with the new leads. Now this is only a theory, I don't have a multimeter to check the facts.

One more thing to say, first time I started the bike with the new leads (warm start) I heard a loud noise. Was is the sprag clutch ? If yes what should I do about it ?


4. RPM needle "stucked"

Take some quality contact cleaner, disasemble the protection above the dashboard, disconnect the only cable plugged into your dashboard, and spray the contact cleaner in it. The problem will most likely go away.



That's it ! Hope this will help some of you, as most of the things are available for every MY10+ bikes.
I also hope you can help me solving the rest of the issues

Best,
Sanei
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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The lack of reactions is quite disapointing, but here we go with an other question and hope someone will take a look at the whole thing hahaha !

I had the "coolant boiling symptom", so I opened the bike once again to check the expansion tank's cap, and tighten it a bit more (it looked ok so I won't replace it now).

The problem is that as I lifted the airbox, one of the intake bell came with it. Is it a sign that I should replace its O-ring ? Also, the bells were burnt, any explanations why ?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 07:24 AM
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All that really meas is the Bell was stuck to the Air Box. A light spray of WD-40 or a very light smear of any lubricant that is ok for rubber will minimize age related sticking. Apply to the lip of the rubber.

The burned look is probably backfire.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 07:54 AM
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From your first post - I had similiar issues, including the clunk when starting. It is the sprag clutch. As soon as I replaced the battery, all the hot start issues disappeared. You are not getting enough power to throw the clutch with sufficient force to engage the sprag and turn the motor over.
If you leave it the next issue will be the dash flashing off and the trip meter reset as you press the start button.
theknurl and theknurl like this.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
All that really meas is the Bell was stuck to the Air Box. A light spray of WD-40 or a very light smear of any lubricant that is ok for rubber will minimize age related sticking. Apply to the lip of the rubber.

The burned look is probably backfire.
Alright, any ideas of how to reduce the backfire ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by revhead1957 View Post
From your first post - I had similiar issues, including the clunk when starting. It is the sprag clutch. As soon as I replaced the battery, all the hot start issues disappeared. You are not getting enough power to throw the clutch with sufficient force to engage the sprag and turn the motor over.
If you leave it the next issue will be the dash flashing off and the trip meter reset as you press the start button.
I actually already have the trip meter resetting a damn lot of times !
May I ask what battery did you purchase ? (and what bike do you have?)


Thanks both of you for your replies !
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanei View Post
Alright, any ideas of how to reduce the backfire ?
Yes, have your ECU tuned on a Dyno by a qualified tuner.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 06:38 AM
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I have a 1090RR.
I replaced mine with a Yuasa around 4 years ago. Lithium batteries were only just becoming available at that time. It lives with an Optimate battery tender when not in use.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2018, 08:23 AM
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For the battery question: Yuasa YTZ10S

Name:  ytz10s.png
Views: 281
Size:  74.5 KB

Remember the battery mounts with the NEGATIVE pole forward. It lies on its side.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the battery tips. But how can I be sure that my issues are indeed coming from a bad battery and not somewhere else ? Is there something else I can check before ordering the battery ?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 02:50 PM
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Not really, unless you are good with a multi-meter and know how to check your charging circuit.

These bikes come stock with a less-than-adequate battery. I'd start there.

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'07 Ducati Monster S4Rs, '07 Ducati Monster 695
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