Valve clearances F4 who adjusted - Page 3 - MVAgusta.net
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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:06 AM
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Not enough Shims

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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
Yes
Well, having taken the measurements PRIOR to Cam removal I came up with numerous valve clearances with the same measurement.


For the Intake the limits are .15-.29 most are right at .15 and some are at .13 even one at .11.


For the Exhaust the same story a few more than three are at .20 one at .15.


However you cannot calculate New Valve shims without removing the old ones. I should have realized that I would need new shims and then remove cams and old shims. Take measurements and THEN buy shims.


The HOTCAMS shim kit comes with only THREE of each. So now I have to order more 2.00 and 1.85 shims. I was thinking it would be better to replace all the ones that are at the lower end of the limit. That way I should not have to do this for another couple of years. Have had the bike 10 years now and only has 18,000 miles. I do ride gently.


So waiting on shims to come.


In the shop manual it says to Install cam chain, and then tighten down the stands. Rotating the crank as to tighten the ones that are not under pressure first. Does anyone have experience with this? I have read the descriptions of installing the cam chain and it looks daunting.
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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:47 PM
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Go visit your local Japanese motorcycle dealer and get the shims you need. They may even just swap with you (maybe)....

Install the intake cam at TDC #1 per manual, sequentially tighten the cam caps all the way down as per the manual, little by little, back and forth, but not to final torque. Take out the chain slack on the intake side and set the cam timing per the manual. Tie the chain to the cam so it can't slip.
Install the exhaust cam and time it to the intake with the pin count. Tie the chain to the cam. Install the cam caps and sequentially tighten them all the way down as per the manual, little by little, but not to final torque.
Install the cam chain tensioner and recheck cam timing. Untie the chain from the cams, rotate the engine a few revolutions and recheck the timing.

Everything still good? Now torque the cam caps to final value, rotating the cams to place the lobes up (no valve spring load) on the adjacent cap bolts you are torquing down.

OK...that's my method (one of them). Just read the manual and use your head.
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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Go visit your local Japanese motorcycle dealer and get the shims you need. They may even just swap with you (maybe)....

Install the intake cam at TDC #1 per manual, sequentially tighten the cam caps all the way down as per the manual, little by little, back and forth, but not to final torque. Take out the chain slack on the intake side and set the cam timing per the manual. Tie the chain to the cam so it can't slip.
Install the exhaust cam and time it to the intake with the pin count. Tie the chain to the cam. Install the cam caps and sequentially tighten them all the way down as per the manual, little by little, but not to final torque.
Install the cam chain tensioner and recheck cam timing. Untie the chain from the cams, rotate the engine a few revolutions and recheck the timing.

Everything still good? Now torque the cam caps to final value, rotating the cams to place the lobes up (no valve spring load) on the adjacent cap bolts you are torquing down.

OK...that's my method (one of them). Just read the manual and use your head.

Had the cam chain tensioner lying on my workshop table and as I await the missing shims I decided to have a looksee. Well for some reason the part that ratchets out and applies pressure to the cam chain was seized. Would not move in or out. So I sprayed it all with WD-40 and it loosened up and began to work. It worried me because who knows how long it has been that way. So I am opting for replacing it. This is the new version of the cam-chain tensioner I think. I’ll search the forum for a suitable replacement. If you know of one let me know.

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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:45 PM
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Some here have used the Tokyo Mods version with success. I have a spare OEM (updated version) if you need.

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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:17 PM
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Some here have used the Tokyo Mods version with success. I have a spare OEM (updated version) if you need.
Sure PM me thank you

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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnicrow View Post
Have successfully removed the bolts that secure the cam shafts in place...phew! They were tight but an allan wrench with a pipe as lever worked great. Was able to exert smooth pressure until they loosened. Now am in the process of calculating and inserting new shims. Secured the cam cahin with wire and will post pics soon.
You, and everyone else needs to get an impact screwdriver...........that and a brass hammer and you're good to go
Here's my 1975 SnapOn PIT-120, then less than $10......I have 3, bought my Father one and found one at the junk yard
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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnicrow View Post
Have successfully removed the bolts that secure the cam shafts in place...phew! They were tight but an allan wrench with a pipe as lever worked great. Was able to exert smooth pressure until they loosened. Now am in the process of calculating and inserting new shims. Secured the cam cahin with wire and will post pics soon.
You, and everyone else needs to get an impact screwdriver...........that and a brass hammer and you're good to go
Here's my 1975 SnapOn PIT-120, then less than $10......I have 3, bought my Father one and found one at the junk yard[IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/images/MVagusta_net_2016/smilies/tango_face_wink.png[/IMG]
Very cool, just googled it, as I have never seen one. Got lucky this time!

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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Go visit your local Japanese motorcycle dealer and get the shims you need. They may even just swap with you (maybe)....

Install the intake cam at TDC #1 per manual, sequentially tighten the cam caps all the way down as per the manual, little by little, back and forth, but not to final torque. Take out the chain slack on the intake side and set the cam timing per the manual. Tie the chain to the cam so it can't slip.
Install the exhaust cam and time it to the intake with the pin count. Tie the chain to the cam. Install the cam caps and sequentially tighten them all the way down as per the manual, little by little, but not to final torque.
Install the cam chain tensioner and recheck cam timing. Untie the chain from the cams, rotate the engine a few revolutions and recheck the timing.

Everything still good? Now torque the cam caps to final value, rotating the cams to place the lobes up (no valve spring load) on the adjacent cap bolts you are torquing down.

OK...that's my method (one of them). Just read the manual and use your head.
Thank you for taking the time to write out the procedure you use! I will recreate it hopefully I will execute properly! Still seeing what to use for CCT Kawasaki or OEM

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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:00 AM
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The manual aftermarket one ( Kawasaki ).

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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViggenF4 View Post
The manual aftermarket one ( Kawasaki ).
Being a relative newbie I do not understand the mechanics of the manual CCT. How do you gauge the tension? By ear? Feel? Thanks

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