Cam Chain Replacement - Page 4 - MVAgusta.net
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post #31 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
James, this is a long shot; did you happen to take a picture of the original configuration? If so, you can compare current to previous.

Man at this point I am going to close her up and see how she runs. To a week of leave from work and while wife and kids at school, I spent an average of 4 hours a day removing cam covers, aligning cams and phonic wheel, tighten bolts, repeat. Then I did the thing where you take a large Allen wrench and torque the cams while bolted down and moved the chain that way, to gain or loose a tooth till i could get it as good as I can. I measured the valve clearances after the shims were installed and she is golden in that sense. The phonic wheel is only off by about an eight inch counterclockwise from TDC when the lines on the cam shafts are aligned up top. When I rotate the engine by hand there is no binding moves smooth as butter. I appreciate all the input along this journey. Note to self, TAKE PICTURES BEFORE.

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post #32 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:09 AM
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Dont have the slightest clue what eight of an inch is, but what ive had my hands on these, they will never align 100%. Always seems like its few millimetres off.

But only that few millimetres, not a tooth or so. If it is tooth off, the marks are way off, you cant really mistake it being allright in that event.

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post #33 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ViggenF4 View Post
Dont have the slightest clue what eight of an inch is, but what ive had my hands on these, they will never align 100%. Always seems like its few millimetres off.

But only that few millimetres, not a tooth or so. If it is tooth off, the marks are way off, you cant really mistake it being allright in that event.

Yes I would say about five MM off from TDC. The tooth count and alignment up top is correct though.

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post #34 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:56 PM
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You can measure how much it would be off, if its tooth off. Just measure from the chain pins. One tooth between pair of pins?

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post #35 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 05:51 AM
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You can measure how much it would be off, if its tooth off. Just measure from the chain pins. One tooth between pair of pins?
Thanks, but its about half a tooth off. That is why I suspect chain stretch.
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post #36 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:14 AM
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Tensioner takes the stretch away. Thats its job.
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post #37 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:50 AM
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On a second thought, you are right and im wrong.

It does affect the marks if the chain lenghthens, only the slack is affected by the tensioner...

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post #38 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ViggenF4 View Post
On a second thought, you are right and im wrong.

It does affect the marks if the chain lenghthens, only the slack is affected by the tensioner...

My issue is that after repeated attempts, It ALWAYS comes back to that initial place. Cams are lined up correctly and that half-link error. I have not been able to correct the discrepancy by jiggling the chain on the crankshaft. So I am just going to get her running again and see what happens. When I turn the crankshaft manually there is no sound and no resistance. I'll keep all posted.

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post #39 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AusMV312 View Post
Some advice. As I have recently done the valve clearances on my F4. Before you begin removing cams etc take note (photo) of cam gear marks when crank is in the correct position.
When reassembling lock the crank in position, partially insert the tensioner(without the spring and extended maybe 2 teeth less than when you removed it) with bolts just screwed in and bring your cams and tensioner down, and in, systematically. Your marks should be the same as your photo when all tightened up.
After many hours and attempts at
aligning the marks perfectly, I discovered that mine did not line up and the bike runs perfectly. As Noel has previously stated they have designed it so it all lines up perfectly after many revolutions.
Very bloody frustrating if you are unaware of this.
Don't be fooled by the manual as to how easy it seems.

Yes am learning this the hard way!! The many revolutions part is what has me weirded out... but we'll see!! I like talking to people from the past!

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post #40 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 03:51 PM
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I’d say in your instance with what you’ve described everything will run fine.
I had a nightmare run with this task to the point where I put it all back together ignoring the fact that as I turned the crank that there was some resistance.
It would still turn through but there was a little resistance.
Anyway, on start up she made a hell of a racket before I immediately shut her down.
I thought that I’d destroyed the engine.
Long story short, pulled it back down again and re assembled so that the marks were as best as I could get them, with zero resistance when rotating the crank, and she has run as sweet as ever since.


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