Cam Chain Replacement - Page 3 - MVAgusta.net
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post #21 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:17 AM
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SCRINCH3R;
Feed the chain, lock the crank, wrap the intake cam on the mark, loosen 2 end bolts on #1 cam bearing block, insert 2-3 1/2" wide pieces of brown paper, retighten bolts, cam is locked in place
Count the pins and lock the exhaust cam the same way
Install cam chain tensioner

DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE BROWN PAPER!!!!!

Old trick
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post #22 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 03:37 AM
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Couldn't do that with my 312r Noel, for reasons I can't remember.
SCRINCH3R in my case, trying to bring the cams down into place, on the timing marks and keeping tension on the cam chain to prevent it from jumping a tooth, took near wizardry to do.
You fight the valve springs all the way. As far as replacing the cam chain I think you'll have to connect to the old and turn the crank to feed it through. I found that trying to slip the chain between the crank gear and casing was impossible though I was able to wriggle the chain and jump a tooth while turning the crank.
Remember to take note of the cam timing mark position when crank at TDC as 9 times out of ten they do not line up perfectly. This fact drove me near insane trying to get them to line up.
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post #23 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 11:20 AM
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900SS - Stainless was the problem- not the cure!!

Hi!

Engine stud bolts can be a real PITA .. on a lot of different engines..

I had a 92 or 93 Duc 900SS that broke a stud bolt .. It was under warranty, at the time i lived in England, but was on the Duc on vacation back in Denmark ..
When the stud bolt broke, all I noticed was that when accelerating above a certain point on the throttle, it would sound like the exhaust had a hole in it at the header, running smooth and without cracking the throttle open, it would run normally..
I called the dealer in North Wales, and they just said: ride it back here carefully -- We'll fix it, the bolts are known to break, some of them are heat treated wrongly .. If one more breaks on the same cylinder you will know that you need to stop So the Duc did 900 km like that at up to 80 Mph .. No problem ..
The pain came when trying to get the stainless bolts out of the aluminium engine case.. Stainless steel torqued hard into Aluminium is NOT a good idea -- You WILL get galvanic corrosion -- I watched the dealers mechanics break 2 more studs before finally getting them out .. We then decided to leave the last one in, and replace three...
The bike then went on to do close to 30000 miles without any real problems at all .. But a 92-93 Duc 900SS is an 80HP low revving bike with somewhat lower compression ratios and load on the heads than a 900-something MV Brutale .. I do not think I would sleep easily if I had one with two broken studs ...
On the subject of Cam chains .. how are the 750 SPR engines in this respect? How about the tensioner? Mine has 24000 km on the clock now .. And I'm thinking of doing the 24-thou service myself -- after several "incidents" with dealers/mechanics "servicing" my Duc, I no longer trust any of them .. and not at all with "My Precious"
I'm not a proffessionel mechanic, but I started my biking career restoring a 1960 BMW R27 at the age of 17, and have restored, rebuilt and serviced several cars, a tractor, all my Bikes, but I still have not done much on my SR .. Changed the spark plugs, changed the chain and sprockets + serviced the Hub .. Not really getting to the engine yet ...
I reckon that if I can completely rebuild a BMW boxer, then I can do the MV as well ..

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post #24 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 02:09 PM
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I reckon that if I can completely rebuild a BMW boxer, then I can do the MV as well ..
Yes...you can !!!
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post #25 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 07:24 PM
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Thumbs up Jumping cam chain?

Do I have to show you all my tricks?

This way it can't jump teeth!

Then lock the cam with paper under the cam

Then count pins and mark it with a felt pen

Then do the exhaust cam the same way

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post #26 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DKDravis View Post
how are the 750 SPR engines in this respect? How about the tensioner? Mine has 24000 km on the clock now .. And I'm thinking of doing the 24-thou service myself
Definitely do it yourself.
Junk the 750 tensioner and get hold of the black up-rated tensioner from the 1000S range.
Ignore the cam chain but replace the cam chain sprocket bolts with high tensile socket head cap screws.
Good for 50,000 kms or more.....

F4 750: EVO2 engine, CNC Mitchs Hub, CNC water pump, FBF clip ons, Uprated chain tensioner, PCIII, Ceramic headers, RG3s, Talon 520 conversion, Oro wheels, +40,000miles and counting.......
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post #27 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 10:57 PM
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Feed the chain, lock the crank, wrap the intake cam on the mark, loosen 2 end bolts on #1 cam bearing block, insert 2-3 1/2" wide pieces of brown paper, re-tighten bolts, cam is locked in place
Sweet trick Noel, I'll rember that one, but the cam cap bolts are a factory-clusterfak of torque and loctite and I don't advise anyone attempt to remove them unless desperate.

F4 750: EVO2 engine, CNC Mitchs Hub, CNC water pump, FBF clip ons, Uprated chain tensioner, PCIII, Ceramic headers, RG3s, Talon 520 conversion, Oro wheels, +40,000miles and counting.......
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post #28 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-26-2018, 06:19 PM
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What do you mean the cam bearing block bolts are tight?????

Sheared my 5mm SnapOn Allen wrench at ~80lbft
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post #29 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AusMV312 View Post
Couldn't do that with my 312r Noel, for reasons I can't remember.
SCRINCH3R in my case, trying to bring the cams down into place, on the timing marks and keeping tension on the cam chain to prevent it from jumping a tooth, took near wizardry to do.
You fight the valve springs all the way. As far as replacing the cam chain I think you'll have to connect to the old and turn the crank to feed it through. I found that trying to slip the chain between the crank gear and casing was impossible though I was able to wriggle the chain and jump a tooth while turning the crank.
Remember to take note of the cam timing mark position when crank at TDC as 9 times out of ten they do not line up perfectly. This fact drove me near insane trying to get them to line up.
How did you finally get them to line up? I am at wits end. I am thinking my cam chain is stretched!!

James M.
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post #30 of 67 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnicrow View Post
How did you finally get them to line up? I am at wits end. I am thinking my cam chain is stretched!!
James, this is a long shot; did you happen to take a picture of the original configuration? If so, you can compare current to previous.

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