new with mv agusta f4 750 - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Question new with mv agusta f4 750

Hi, I haven't had the 750 1 series for a long time, I'm updating it and I have some doubts.....
The exhaust manifolds are tight to the block without any gaskets, they have rings on the manifolds and these are the ones that support the block "iron with iron", is that correct?

In gas holdings closed after quite a lot of turns up there are times that makes a single detonation by the exhaust, has changed oil filters spark plugs and regulated the injection according to manual workshop, (vacuum meters, level co, and degree of opening butterflies at rest), I have left the CO too low? the bike has the perfect slow down and goes very smoothly.

In this engine the frame and the injection take as the temperature value of the engine the temperature of the coolant of the radiator and as the temperature value to turn on the fans the temperature of the coolant in the block, it should not be the other way around? I'm used to working with Italians, I have a ducati 998 and an integral lancia but this already seems strange to me even for them.....

Thank you and greetings

Sorry for my English...)
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 06:33 PM
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There should be gaskets between the exhaust pipes and cylinder head!! Just like most other bikes. Probably some Honda or Yamaha gasket would fit.

The after fire during long deceleration could be either too rich or too lean. You need an exhaust gas analyzer to set CO% properly. If it runs very good then I wouldn't mess with it!

My 5SM ECU bike uses a single water temp sensor in the cylinder head. It has 2 channels. One send temp info to the ECU which controls the fan. The other sends signal only to the dash.

I think the 16M ECU (your bike) uses one in the radiator for dash and one in the engine for ECU, which controls the fan.

I may be wrong, but the workshop manual should explain.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 08:21 PM
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Thumbs up ?

The gaskets are probably there.....
Service your rear hub, if the 3810-2RS is heat damaged, replace it, I can supply a new bearing for $34 + shipping

Only torque the hub pinch bolts to 20Nm/15lbft


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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
There should be gaskets between the exhaust pipes and cylinder head!! Just like most other bikes. Probably some Honda or Yamaha gasket would fit.

The after fire during long deceleration could be either too rich or too lean. You need an exhaust gas analyzer to set CO% properly. If it runs very good then I wouldn't mess with it!

My 5SM ECU bike uses a single water temp sensor in the cylinder head. It has 2 channels. One send temp info to the ECU which controls the fan. The other sends signal only to the dash.

I think the 16M ECU (your bike) uses one in the radiator for dash and one in the engine for ECU, which controls the fan.

I may be wrong, but the workshop manual should explain.

Hi, the exhaust manifold does not have the gaskets, today I have already bought new ones, maybe the explosions in the exhaust are due to the lack of gaskets.

I have a CO analyzer. i have an ducati an it's imperative

In the workshop manual I think it clearly states that the cpu takes the temperature of the coolant from the radiator, I will check it.....

many thanks
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
The gaskets are probably there.....
Service your rear hub, if the 3810-2RS is heat damaged, replace it, I can supply a new bearing for $34 + shipping

Only torque the hub pinch bolts to 20Nm/15lbft

No gaskets, sure.

the rear hub It's okay for now.

I have four torque wrenches and the workshop manual

many thanks
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by integradeltona View Post
Hi, the exhaust manifold does not have the gaskets, today I have already bought new ones, maybe the explosions in the exhaust are due to the lack of gaskets.
The missing gaskets could contribute to the after fire. Air leak on the low pressure deceleration pulses pulling in air that ignites unburned HCs.
Although you might think you would also hear the leak under pressure...but maybe the engine sounds are concealing it.

I know that air leaks at the muffler/header junction of a big single cylinder engine can cause after fire on decel.

So fix that before you start messing with fuel trim.

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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, after a few months I have been able to put new gaskets in the exhaust manifolds and seal the entire pipe.

The CO level was still high, I checked the coils and spark plug wires and the wires did not have good continuity, I changed the wires for new, universal ngk wires because the oem new wires no longer exist, now the CO has dropped to normal levels but a problem persists.

When the motorcycle warms up and is close to starting the fan, it lowers the battery voltage and lowers the idle speed until the engine stops.

Above 70 degrees the voltage is maintained above 14 v, as it warms up the idle speed goes down and the voltage goes down to below 13v where it stops the engine, if the fan is turned on, have two, it stops immediately.

I have tried connecting a car battery and it works the same way, I have connected a battery charger + car battery and it works the same way.....

I don't know what can happen on the bike, I'm already a little desperate....

The engine compression is correct and I have adjusted TPS, CO and balance several times without result.

Thank you
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 02:46 PM
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How is idle speed? Low idle speed can exaggerate voltage drop when fan comes on. But from your description I think there is some voltage drop within the wiring.

First thing is to confirm condition of main battery leads: ground to engine/chassis and positive through main fuse to harness. Suggest you get a new, heavier gauge ground wire. Also check for poor connections or corrosion, especially at main fuse area and alternator connection.

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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Hello, the idle speed with the bike in normal temperatures is correct, higher than low.

Will I check the motorcycle wiring, does the engine have a ground cable or just the chassis?

I believe that with a car battery + 8 amps charger + motorcycle alternator, the voltage should be stable, you shouldn't even notice the fan on.
Many thanks
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 05:59 PM
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The available voltage may not matter if there is a voltage drop in the circuit from resistance..... The battery negative goes to the engine cases.

Do you have an ammeter? capable of 30 amps? You can plug in the leads in place of the main fuse and see what happens to the system current when the fan comes on.
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