312R Valve adjust. Possible Disaster!! - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 312R Valve adjust. Possible Disaster!!

I've just done a valve adjust on my '08 312R for the first time. After much reading on the forum, countless efforts trying to line the cams up with the mark on the phonic wheel using all the suggestions provided on the forum I got it as close as I could and left it at that concluding that my cam chain had a little stretch in it at 24000Klm.
I turned the bike over manually via the phonic wheel to check for any catching etc and all was good. I assembled the bike etc and started it and she fired up pretty much straight away once the fuel got through it HOWEVER!! there was a hell of a rattle noise. I turned it off quickly and thought maybe the cam chain tensioner needed to adjust so I started it again and let it run a bit longer but the rattle would not go away so I stopped it again. I gave it one more try but nothing changed. I have begun to strip it back down and pull the valve cover off again.
Question- When positioning the mark on the phonic wheel with the notch on the casing and piston 1 at top dead centre at 'Burst Phase', how many rotations a required to get to Burst Phase again?
I am hoping that I haven't missed a rotation (if required) when lining the cams up. The piston was at top dead centre when I set them.
I am praying that it's a sloppy cam chain and the tensioner is faulty.
Thanks in advance
Steve


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 04:19 AM
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Being a 4 stroke it will be 2 complete rotations of the crankshaft.
I presume you had to pull the cams and actually adjust shims?
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks For that and yep the cams were removed and new shims put in. If by chance I missed a rotation could I have done valve damage.....would the bike even start??


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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If the cams are out and you are rotating the phonic wheel, and every time the timing mark is on the casing notch with the piston at top dead centre, is this Burst Phase?


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 07:00 AM
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Ed would be a great one to chime in on this.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 07:13 AM
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I don't think the bike would start if you were 180 out on timing.

Pull your cam chain tensioner and check that it isn't jammed.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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I thought that might be the case. I'll pull the tensioner out tomorrow and take a look. I'm starting to think I may need to replace the Cam Chain but it was not making the noise before I pulled it down for a valve check.
Getting the cam marks lined up with the casing and then lined up with the phonic wheel was an absolute pain in the rear. It took me hours and they still weren't exact. Some are saying that it is critical some are not. I'm thinking that if your Chain is stretched then an exact setting would be near impossible to achieve.
My biggest fear is that the valves have hit the pistons. I've now have also rounded the the phonic wheel nut (I've given it so much attention these last two days) so I'm going to have to get that sorted before I can go further


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 09:14 AM
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I know when Ed and I did mine. We had to tighten everything about half way. Hand turn the cams with the phonic wheel. Then tighten everything more. When we would try to just tighten everything down. It would rotate the cams out of alignment just a little and when we went to turn the cams you could feel one touching.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 11:36 AM
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Cam timing is pretty critical with the high lift and long overlap MVs use. Even with a stretched chain you should have the intake cam mark just about perfectly aligned with the cylinder head surface.
I was coaching Randrew on his cam replacement project, and every time he would put it together it would be off. It was tricky getting the cam caps all tightened down without slipping. so we manually held tension on the chain and rotated the crank to move the cams and take pressure off the lobes on the cap we were tightening, going in repeated steps until all were snug, then installing tensioner and rechecking timing before torquing the caps.

The ECM uses the cam position sensor to determine which cylinder is at TDC compression, so you only need set the phonic wheel pointer at the mark to start. But to check cam timing after installation you must rotate the crank 2 full turns.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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OK that's good to hear. I'm thinking now that the rattle is the CCT not doing it's job. To get it right I think I may have to use Noel's suggestion and lock the crank, set the intake cam up turning anticlockwise to take up tension between crank and cam and lock that down(3 pieces paper between 1 cam cap and cam shaft) then set the exhaust cam at the 24th link and then install the tensioner.
I've tried similar to what you and Randrew did but the crank would move way passed the mark when the tensioner was put in.(I am working alone)
Any suggestions on how to lock the crank?


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