quickshifter SP electronics adjustment - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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quickshifter SP electronics adjustment

I have installed Quick shifter from SP electronics on my B 1090 RR Y10 and I am suffering by false neutrals although I have increased the cut time to maximum 80 msec + 25 msec (partial throttle). I am trying to move the pedal quickly and firmly with adequate power, I guess that more than normal since the sensor pulled out twice from tightened holder by reason of hard using . The higher gear the more problematic shifting.

My question is:
1) It is better to have steady throttle during using QS or it is better continuously open throttle during shifting
2) What is the best common cut-time adjustment for Brutale?
3) Could be the reason of my problem the position of the toe peg sensor (see photo)? Maybe that the sensor is switched on too early (first contact of my instep during shifting is done before starting of movement of the lever) and I am not ready to catch the cut-time for smooth shifting. What is your orientation/position of toe peg sensor? Shall I move the sensor more clockwise?

It is a little bit frustrating since the I have found debris from gearbox wchich is tge result of my shifting mistakes.

I have very good experience with Cordoba QS installed on my track Gixxer K7 but there is reversed lever and this way is more comfortable and precise for up-shifting. I have no problem on gixxer.

Thanks for opinion.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 08:11 PM
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markob,

What do you mean by false neutrals? Is it the engine cut when your foot brushes the lever? I have an Healtech Electronics quickshifter fitted and it is very sensitive. I chose this one as It'll work with the standard shift or rearsets. If my foot just brushes the pedal (I have Rizoma rear sets) then the engine cuts and I get what you're describing as a 'false neutral'. I then have to take a second bite at the pedal and shift hard. I think this has more to do with the play in the shaft on mine than problems with the electronic shifter. Just taking up the slack in the shift causes the engine to cut. I have to really concentrate to keep my toe well clear of the pedal which is a pain as I've probably always ridden with some toe pressure there without knowing, then concentrate on a quick solid shift.

Also my gearbox has to be warmed up before it all works properly. Trying to quickshift when it's cold doesn't work too well. When all the planets are aligned and things are working well then any throttle works (partial or flat), although I have to say shifting is better when not totally pinned. I am going for a track day shortly and will disable it for that as it's too hit and miss at the moment. Mine is fully programmable via bluetooth on my phone but I haven't had time to fully play with the settings so it's on default. I plan to shift the sensor from the gearbox shaft to the rearset linkage to see if that makes any difference. I think a strain gauge type would probably be more suitable for an MV's box.

Cheers

Deano
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Deano

False neutral means within my real experiance that if I am shifting the geargbox leaves for example 4th gear and falls to neutral, revs goes up ( i know it since microtec is installed and 'N' is displayed in this moment) and then falls the gearbox back to 4th gear. The problem is not standard but makes me nervous. I wonder if these three parameters could improve the results (sensor position/turn, cut-time, handling with throtlle). While I am monitoring this issue I have logically increased the cut time to mawimum.

I use the way of boot/kicking to the lever whlle my heel is not placed on the rearseat in order to be guick.

I do not know SP quality but if I understand well the Healtech is not also faultless. So the problem could be in freeplay of MV gearbox.

By the way always i can see with microtec green light flash during shifting among gears.It seems that ECu computer is too quick and catch the change in voltage from gear sensor.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 02:24 AM
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You should try and adjust the lever so that the QS module is more in line with the lever - that should help.
So twist the toe-piece upwards till it's in line with the lever, then drop the lever at the gearbox shaft (on the splines) to position it as you need it to be.

The angle at which that lever is now sitting doesn't look right to me, I don't think you're getting the necessary rotation out of it.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for advice Donsy. I will try it.
If I understand well I have to try to adjust the black pedal and its aluminium brace (holder) in-line with the whole shift lever. The black pedal turn so that the switch will be heading downwards.
That is good to hear that I can adjust the whole lever on the shaft as needed.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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"...The angle at which that lever is now sitting doesn't look right to me, I don't think you're getting the necessary rotation out of it...."

Donsy, do you think to move the whole lever down or up? I guess that down in order to have more space for movement during upshift.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markob View Post
Thanks for advice Donsy. I will try it.
If I understand well I have to try to adjust the black pedal and its aluminium brace (holder) in-line with the whole shift lever.
That is good to hear that I can adjust the whole lever on the shaft as needed.
Just like this Marko, look at picture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markob View Post
"...The angle at which that lever is now sitting doesn't look right to me, I don't think you're getting the necessary rotation out of it...."

Donsy, do you think to move the whole lever down or up? I guess that down in order to have more space for movement during upshift.
Up or down is your choice, it needs to work for you and your foot, but I'm thinking down one spline.
If you adjust the lever at the engine (splined shaft), remember to pull the lever off then rotate, then push back on - Make a mark with a pen so you know where you started.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thak is clear to me now. Thank you.
I can see that with such improvement I will prolong the lever and get more power during shifting.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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I have moved the pedal in line with lever and the performance of the QS is more effectice and immediate.
I have to say that the one safe method is to kick up rapidly the lever. But I guess that especially MV needs hard action. Gixxer on which I have Cordona and reversed shift mechanism is just common pushing to the pedal my easy job.

The strange feature of SP electronics is that I have adjusted threshold for 3.500 rpm (and checked this level). Sometimes when I am parking and go from 1 to neutral by using clutch and the revs on idle the engine dies. It seems that QS cuts the ignition even if engine is idling. Wrong information from TPS? Do you have such experiance?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe it helps anybody - the problem of wrong function of quick shifter threshold mentioned above I have solved by installation special wiring delivered by SP electronics. The wiring ensures reading of information from pick up sensor (as advanced) information. RPM Threshold re-adjusted and I have no problem after that.
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