Exhaust Valve Solenoid Brutale - Electrical dissconnect - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Valve Solenoid Brutale - Electrical dissconnect

Hi guys

I have that horrid clicking sound from the Exhaust flapper valve solenoid on my B4 920. I have just pulled the electrical connector and sound gone so Oki to ride? Does the valve just sit in the open position now?

Or do I need to take tank and airbox off and disconnect the cables? Do I disconnect at exhaust or on the actuator?





Thanks Guys

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 01:55 AM
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You need to disconnect the cable, I think it's easier at the exhaust, and the valve will stay open. You'll probably get a fault code by just disconnecting the electrics.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Cheers mate. I had a fault code (well orange light) on for a while before it started clicking so no idea if disconnecting it causes this. I want to just disconnect enough so oki to Ride to GoToJoe and ask him to help remove tank and do it. Not confident removing tank myself and have no bike mates around here bar Joe.

Il see if I can remove cables today off exhaust and work out if valve open (Pretty sure it is as revs to 5k in neutral fine) but SUPER cold here so cant take out (roads just sheet ice)

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:11 AM
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Donsy is correct, unplugging the actuator will throw a fault. If you disconnect at the valve, you should have enough slack to disconnect at the actuator and remove the cables completely. Been a while since removing the cables on my 990 but don't remember having to remove the tank. Hope it works out for you. Cheers Brett.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:45 AM
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Although on an F4 I disconnected my cables at the exhaust valve and tied the cables out if the way. I also lockwire to hold the valve open and stop any boucing of the valve.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks All

I tried disconnecting on exhaust as nice and easy and I think I'm good!


I have disconnected box and happy to live with orange light as if I connect box it makes horrid clicking noises. I need to get that box out and fit the eliminator healtec box. I will have to get tank and airbox off for that tho.

Mine has a spring and I think its sprung to open, can anyone confirm from that pic?

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 05:53 AM
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I think the F4 is sprung open and the F3 sprung closed. I'd nit like to guess on yours. The impact of getting it wrong is quite harsh on the power. The post below shows the impact on an F4.

http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=189994

Take it down the road, if it barks and crackles on over run its open. If it struggles to accelerate hard you have it wrong.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 08:44 AM
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there a company that make a servo eliminator plug to get shot of the fault light , i think they are called heal tec , well they make one for the F3 so can't imagine they don't for the F4 or B4
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah they Do Ceepee. I will get one. Need to work out which way if open and which way closed tho..... or take system off and do it the hard way

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 06:17 PM
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Thumbs up ?

the default position should be open, so just disconnect the cables

there's usually an aftermarket device so you can remove the electrical part and avoid

a fault code, on Aprilias you use the diagnostic tool with a special password


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