My Experience with Valve Adjustment and other things -
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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My Experience with Valve Adjustment and other things

So, I know there are other threads about valve adjustments, including a recent one started by chay250 with a whole lot of posts, but I thought I'd share my experience anyway because that's what we do here, right?

Anyway, my 910R was coming up on 33,000 miles and the last major service was done at a dealer back at 15,000 miles. I had done things like oil changes, drive chain/sprockets and some other things, but I had been putting off checking the valves because it is mostly uncharted territory for me.

So rain was in the forecast (finally) and I made the decision to check the valves. Everything went smoothly up to the point where I found two exhaust valves too tight (one so tight, my valve gauges I had didn't go small enough to measure it.) Also, one intake was at the edge of being too tight and 5 of the other exhaust valves were on the edge of being too tight. Looking at the history, based on the dealer's numbers at 8000 miles and 15,000 miles, all the exhaust valves were steadily getting tighter while the intake seemed pretty much the same with the one exception.

Around this time is when chay250's thread was really getting going with lots of posts. After reading all the stories about the cam bolts, I just hoped I would get lucky. Six bolts came undone with a breaker bar for leverage and then the seventh's head stripped immediately. I half heartily tried some more bolts, but they too were not budging. In all my searching on this forum, I remember a couple of people saying you can remove the frame and kind of hang it to the side if you're careful, so I went that route.

I first built a engine support out of scrap wood (I only have a front and rear stand). It worked really well. If any one locally needs to borrow it, let me know. Even with all the hammering I did on those cam bolts, everything was rock steady.

The best advice I can give here is loosen but don't remove the rearmost trellis frame bolts and then after removing the other bolts rotate the whole frame/front end up slowly keeping an eye on all of the connections and disconnecting whatever is necessary (not much - take photos to help remember where things go). Once you have it high enough to clear the front of the engine, then remove the rear bolts and supporting the front end from rocking forward carefully move it to the side, the main thing to keep an eye on the clutch cable. As scared as I was to do this, it actually went very easily taking my time and with the help of my lovely wife.

Oh, and before I removed the frame, I of course had to remove the radiator. This is where I ran into another issue: after I drained the coolant, I put the drain bolt back into the water pump so as not to lose it and I realized the threads had been stripped because just with my fingers tightening it, it just kept rotating without resistance. So, now I had to remove the water pump (more consulting the manual, searching on the forum) and I learned what you all are always talking about when you say helicoil it. They had the right size helicoil kit at my auto parts store (expensive, but I now have a ton of helicoils for this size bolt) and the process was fairly straightforward and it worked.

Also, after removing the water pump, I found a nut just sitting there in the grime between the water pump housing and the engine. Who knows where that came from and when it was dropped into the engine area !

With the cam bolts now very easy to get to, I first tried to remove them by hand and I got a few more removed. Then I went to my electric impact drill and got a couple more. Then I tried a recently acquired impact driver, but I couldn't get any results (I could very well not be using it correctly). That's when I went to the torx bit route suggested by some here on the forum. I bought a couple T40 sockets and with a small sledge hammer slowly hammered the torx into the allen head. I took my time and was able to remove the 5 remaining bolts this way.

I bought a Hot Cams Valve Shim kit, 7.48mm. The kit comes with three of every size, so knowing I was going to have to replace at least 5 that were the same amount off, I was hoping they all had different shims. I ended up having the right combination of shims removed from the MV and new ones from the kit to adjust the 8 valves that needed it. I will say that the shims MV uses were mostly impossible to read. I had to use my caliper to measure them. And once everything was back in place, they all now measured within spec as expected including the one that I wasn't able to measure before.

I bought 8 new OEM bolts from Moto Forza and used those for all of the harder to get to inner bolts and reused the 8 best of what I had removed. Getting the cam stands back on was kind of a pain with the tension on the chain and the some of the valves pushing on the cams. I just took it real slow and put the bolts in a few threads at a time going from bolt to bolt. And, as always, consult the manual constantly.

To get the frame back in place, I would again advise moving it over and rotating, nudging, etc and at some point getting the rearmost bolts in place but not tightened and then slowly rotate the whole thing down, checking and rechecking all of the wiring, etc. Despite my best efforts, I still ending up pinching and slicing the overflow hose for the coolant between the engine and the frame. At least that was easy to replace.

I get everything back together (when I put the coolant in I poured it reeeaaaalllllly slowly and i think it worked - no coolant overflowing!) enough so that I could at least start the engine and see if I screwed anything up. I try it a couple of times and the engine turns over but doesn't fire up. Then I realize that the pump priming is making a strange noise. On the fourth try, I open the tank cap and turn on the ignition and it is like there is a sprinkler inside my fuel tank . I was sad that the bike didn't start, but happy that at least so far, it wasn't my fault.

I take the tank off and pull out the pump (first time doing this, too) and as you can see in the photo, the fuel hose had come off the pump all on its own. I also notice that the inner o-ring seal is stretched out and won't fit snug to the flange. So now I need o-rings and I might as well replace the inner fuel lines and clamps (with worm-drive clamps). Thanks to Noel, I source the o-rings and all stainless steel clamps from McMaster-Carr (anyone need flange o-rings, I've got plenty - they come 25 per pack). I already had a fuel filter waiting to be installed and I was able to order a foot of the submersible fuel line (Spec: SAE 30R10) from the local auto parts store (they didn't even know what I was talking about, but I had found it on their website and showed it to them).

Okay, tank back on, turn her on and she starts! I then change the oil and sync the throttle bodies and take her for a test ride and all is good.

Oh, there is a photo here of me explaining how an internal combustion engine works to my daughter - taking advantage of being able to see some engine internals that most people never see.

It took me a long time (5 or 6 weeks? I lost count) to do all of this because of having to get parts and work and family obligations. I also didn't want to work on it a little at a time. Before this, the longest I had gone without riding my motorcycle was about 2 weeks, so I am glad to have her back!

I want to thank people on this forum for the various contributions that by reading I was able to have a little more confidence attacking this. I really enjoy working on my bike and it felt great to do this much work to it. Of course, I took the time to clean up all of the years of grime that had accumulated in all the hard get places because I like cleaning up the bike, too. A special shout out to Noel for his help over the phone, too and pointing me in the direction of the source for the o-rings.

I have to say that after all of this, whenever I decide to check the valves again, I think I will go ahead and move the frame to side from the very beginning. Even if there is no adjustment is needed, it was so much easier to get the valve cover back on with the frame out of the way.

Lastly, after trying to consult the manuals on the computer or iPad, I finally just printed the whole thing on paper and put it in a three ring binder - so much easier to work with!
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:53 AM
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Superb bit of work there, Chris!
Nice to know that there are people on here who actually can help.

Thanks for taking the time to do the write up.

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Old 02-21-2016, 04:31 AM
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Great write up mate and well done to you, shows how tight the clearances can get and the bike still run fine , good tip on swinging the frame out of the way.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:43 AM
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Well done Chris, and thanks for taking the time to share with us.

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Old 02-21-2016, 06:18 AM
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thx for adding this. I came to the conclusion the frame needed to be removed after reading how Xbikes does it this way. the only thing needing changing is moving to Torx bolts for the future IMO.
think about it if you have to physically hammer forge the Allen bolts to accept Torx bit then how would the job have gone if Torx were used to begin with? thx again

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Old 02-21-2016, 09:56 AM
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Good on Ya......always a good feeling when you get a job done right!!

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Old 02-21-2016, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I started writing this last night and before I knew it, it was past my bed time! I didn't realize when I started the text would be so long, but there it is. Glad you read it!

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Old 02-21-2016, 02:34 PM
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Ah, the memories. It is so cool that this is made possible by the fine folks on this forum.

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Old 02-21-2016, 04:23 PM Sponsor
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Very well explained,good work.

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Old 02-21-2016, 07:22 PM
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Great read and gives me the courage to tackle this type of work in the future. Loved how you included your daughter in the mix. My girl is 4 and a half and already knows lefty loosey, righty tighty!

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