My Experience with Valve Adjustment and other things - Page 6 - MVAgusta.net
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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 08:45 PM
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 10:13 PM
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I doubt it. I get to site very infrequently now, probably been a couple of years. We are the manufacturer of your head tensioners.

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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 06:13 AM
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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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3 years later

Well it has been three years and about 18,000 miles later (50,500 miles on the odo) and I have once again tackled this job. Same as last time, there was consistent rain in the forecast, so figured it would be a good time to take her apart (and boy have we been getting rain here in SoCal - not complaining as we could use it).

This time, I started off from the beginning with moving the frame out of the way which also involves removing the radiator. I checked the valves and the inlets were all good - pretty much the same. The exhaust on the other hand, one was too tight beyond spec and 5 others were at the tightest spec. So, that meant all 6 were progressively getting tighter since the last time. So, I went through the process of exchanging shims to get those 6 back in spec.

The dreaded camshaft bolts. I took my time and very carefully made sure there wasn't a spec of oil in any of the camshaft bolts.

My first try at removing the bolts, I very slowly tried to turn three different bolts - and it wasn't happening. Frustrated and not in the mood, I left it for the next night. The next night, I went to the hardware store and got a new socket since I could tell the one I was using had a little wear. I try again on one of the bolts from the previous night and I can see the socket turning in the head stripping it. I stop. I go to a bolt I haven't worked on yet. I feel the bolt turn ever so slightly and pop! The bolt broke off!


Now this is part of the story that I have to admit to doing something I have never done before (at least not without catching myself right way) and of course I felt completely stupid about: I was tightening the bolts! I was so focused on how hard it was going to be to turn these bolts, that I didn't notice I was turning the wrench clockwise. How long have I been turning wrenches and screw drivers? Decades?


Man did I feel terrible - plus now I had a bolt stuck in the engine.


After pulling myself together, I went back at it, this time with a breaker bar (which I probably didn't need but it forced me to think about what direction I was turning) on the 12 bolts that I hadn't touched and they each came loose without any issue. So, if torqued correctly, apparently after 3 years and 18,000 miles, they do come undone like "normal" bolts should (as long as you turn them the right way )


The three bolts that I had accidentally tightened I ended up having to do the torx bolt thing to get them out. Two of them were near to breaking off once I got them out. Once I got the camshafts out, I got lucky on the one bolt that sheared because the hole is not flush and I was able to use pliers and easily turn the bolt the rest of the way out. Fortunately one of my local dealers had the bolts in stock.


Everything else went smoothly. I did the shims and put everything back together. I also replaced the spark plugs and air filter and synced the throttle bodies. Once it finally stopped raining I was able to take her out and she runs great.

Next project: front brakes.
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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddypro View Post
leave it ,if your bike is not hunting at idle ,leave it alone.They are still ok.

cheers eddy
First time I have heard this expression, and my bike has been doing this for a while. I am currently measuring the valve clearance and a few are out of tolerance!. Are you saying this causes the hunting sounds at idle? Thanks

James M.

Last edited by Midnicrow; 03-26-2019 at 10:13 AM. Reason: syntax
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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lc_brutale View Post
Well it has been three years and about 18,000 miles later (50,500 miles on the odo) and I have once again tackled this job. Same as last time, there was consistent rain in the forecast, so figured it would be a good time to take her apart (and boy have we been getting rain here in SoCal - not complaining as we could use it).

This time, I started off from the beginning with moving the frame out of the way which also involves removing the radiator. I checked the valves and the inlets were all good - pretty much the same. The exhaust on the other hand, one was too tight beyond spec and 5 others were at the tightest spec. So, that meant all 6 were progressively getting tighter since the last time. So, I went through the process of exchanging shims to get those 6 back in spec.

The dreaded camshaft bolts. I took my time and very carefully made sure there wasn't a spec of oil in any of the camshaft bolts.

My first try at removing the bolts, I very slowly tried to turn three different bolts - and it wasn't happening. Frustrated and not in the mood, I left it for the next night. The next night, I went to the hardware store and got a new socket since I could tell the one I was using had a little wear. I try again on one of the bolts from the previous night and I can see the socket turning in the head stripping it. I stop. I go to a bolt I haven't worked on yet. I feel the bolt turn ever so slightly and pop! The bolt broke off


Now this is part of the story that I have to admit to doing something I have never done before (at least not without catching myself right way) and of course I felt completely stupid about: I was tightening the bolts! I was so focused on how hard it was going to be to turn these bolts, that I didn't notice I was turning the wrench clockwise. How long have I been turning wrenches and screw drivers? Decades?


Man did I feel terrible - plus now I had a bolt stuck in the engine.


After pulling myself together, I went back at it, this time with a breaker bar (which I probably didn't need but it forced me to think about what direction I was turning) on the 12 bolts that I hadn't touched and they each came loose without any issue. So, if torqued correctly, apparently after 3 years and 18,000 miles, they do come undone like "normal" bolts should (as long as you turn them the right way )


The three bolts that I had accidentally tightened I ended up having to do the torx bolt thing to get them out. Two of them were near to breaking off once I got them out. Once I got the camshafts out, I got lucky on the one bolt that sheared because the hole is not flush and I was able to use pliers and easily turn the bolt the rest of the way out. Fortunately one of my local dealers had the bolts in stock.


Everything else went smoothly. I did the shims and put everything back together. I also replaced the spark plugs and air filter and synced the throttle bodies. Once it finally stopped raining I was able to take her out and she runs great.

Next project: front brakes.
Well, I am about to do the same job you did years ago. And are doing again!... Where did you get the shims?

I will remember Counter Clockwise. Thanks for the write up!

James M.
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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnicrow View Post
First time I have heard this expression, and my bike has been doing this for a while. I am currently measuring the valve clearance and a few are out of tolerance!. Are you saying this causes the hunting sounds at idle? Thanks

Tight valves can cause poor idle.... yes.

Shims from the local Japanese bike dealer...take yours in and ask to swap for the sizes you need......may need to pay a little if you aren't good friends.

Or buy a kit. You already found the web site for one company in another thread.
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 06:14 AM
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Great. learn something new every day! Thank you for all your feedback. Now its off to measuring and getting the shims! It's funny how one peels back the layers in this forum to find information.

James M.
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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 03:39 PM
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Desired Gap for Shims on Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Tight valves can cause poor idle.... yes.

Shims from the local Japanese bike dealer...take yours in and ask to swap for the sizes you need......may need to pay a little if you aren't good friends.

Or buy a kit. You already found the web site for one company in another thread.
So I have made the measurements and have found a number of valves out of spec.

My question is when calculating the shim size what should be the desired gap. If the range on intake is from .15 to .24 and the range on exhaust is .20 to .29.

What am i shooting for middle of the range? Tope end of the range ?

Have searched the forum extensively and not coming up with an answer to this.

Also the chart in the chassis manual versus the diagram in the engine manual is wrong for the numeration of the valves. I did find a members redone chart great help!! Thanks!

Thank you for all your help!!
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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 04:17 PM
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You should shoot for the larger gap, as valves tend to tighten over time. In a race engine where absolute maximum valve opening is required you go for the smallest gap....but you also rebuild and service the motor constantly.

Shim sizes are in .05 mm increments.....so you take your measured clearance, look at the existing shim size, and pick a shim that will bring the valve into spec.

You don't really have much choice as usually only one size shim will work to get the gap into spec.....unless you shave the shims to exact size, something I do not recommend unless you are a race engine builder with experience.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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