hello,
I picked up a 2014' F3 800 with 1600 miles on the odo. Unfortunately, before i got the odo to 3k ive had issue with the cush drive, rear brake and gas tank. Thanks to the info on this forum im well on my way to getting these resolved.
Ive owned an 05' GSXR 600, 07 GSXR 600, 08 GSXR 1000 and a 2017 Ducati Monster 821. The F3 is by far my favorite bike to ride thus far. Even with the aforementioned issues! It has a light/nimble feel with great power that is tons of fun to ride!
Welcome to the family @jlake4130 ... Now add your location on the planet to your profile! Great bikes when sorted, but MV Agustas are definitely not Suzukis.!!
Thanks for the welcomes everyone!
Here's a quick pic of the BDS cush drive i will be installing this weekend. Ill be sure post of some pics of the install too.
Like i mentioned earlier in this thread my cush drive had enough play in it that i was getting very fine metal dust on the rear wheel after a ride, which i assumed was from the drive rubbing on the hub eccentric or something else. However, this weekend when i removed the old drive the only wear i noticed on any of the metal parts was to the face of the OE top hat spacer, it had some light friction marks. any place i should look for wear before assembling the new BDS drive and top hat spacer? This bike only has 2900 miles on it total with less then 400 miles on the drive in the pics below.
Thx.
1.6 - new / old drive
1.7 - hub
1.8 - new top hat spacer installed
The newer design you have (had), but now replaced by MV with a re release of the much older design (that worked), is in mine and others opinion pretty poor. I've an F4 and it chews that style of cush drive for fun, I swapped back to the older design, which is very similar to the BDS & I have the BDS of a race bike. Both work perfectly
I got the new BDS drive installed and everything went smooth. Getting the axle nut to line up with the holes in the axle took a few tries. One quick question, Does it matter if you set the hub/chain tension before doing the final torque on the axle nut? I had the axle nut pretty snug then set chain tension, tightened the two socket screws to lock the hub down, then did final torque on the axle nut. Should you torque the axle nut to spec before setting chain tension? Does it matter? I can see that if the axle nut was loose enough that the drive (and sprocket) could move around it was cause a possible inaccurate chain tension reading but that was not my case. I can redo the sequence if needed
Couple more pics as everyone likes pics! THX!
Typically the axle nuts would be torqued before chain adjustment, but it doesn't really make any difference in chain slack if they're not.
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