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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hi. New member.

Hi. Not sure if this is going to work but I am a new member. I’ve been using the helpful posts for a while but have not posted anything.

I haven’t ridden on the road for over 15 years since I discovered track days and then racing. I raced a nc30 for 5 full seasons from 2004 then stopped riding for about 3 years (recession!). I bought a Rc30 track bike in 2007 with the intention of racing it but the ‘electrical fault’ the bike was sold with turned out to be a wrecked motor which took the best part of the next 5 years to fully rebuild.

I bought a Zx6r 636 05 as a tired road bike a few years back and converted it to a track bike which is great and it’s nice to have a semi modern bike that you can just press the starter and know it’s going to start and run well what ever.

I bought a 99 F4 750 about a year ago. I’ve always liked them and kept an eye on eBay to see if anytime came up below the usual £5k starting point.

An unsold one came up at £3k, it was a previous write off so less attractive to most potential MV purchasers but great for me as I was planning on converting it to a track bike in any case.

Since then I’ve gone through the bike. I’m no good at going into motors but I am comfortable talking pretty much everything else off / apart and that is part of the enjoyment.

It now has a Maxton cartridges in the forks, Nitron race shock, race rear sets, Power Commander with quick shifter set up with a custom map. I started with the stock exhausts as noise is an issue here on track days but i do now have a Cilmoto exhaust that I use on race meet test days. The bike has superlite wheels and Brembo discs.

I fitted track fairings and had it sprayed by a guy near brands hatch who is really good and he did a great job on the bike.

I’ve bought a stand that lifts the bike from the middle of the frame as it’s the only way to lift the front to change wheels unless you have the MV part. As it happens the stand has been really helpful as the front and rear suspension has been out so many times it’s saved a lot of hassle hanging the bike from the garage ceiling

It’s not all been happy days since ownership though.

I’ve got the jerky throttle response despite a number of trips back to the dyno for mapping tweaks. I’m in contact with Adam on here and he’s provided me a different EPROM and PC map. I’ve only managed to use it on wet track days late last year since fitting his bits so have not been able to test it fully but I am 99% sure that it’s much better so hopefully making some ground in that respect now and Adam is working with me to tweak where we are if needed.

The other issue has been the suspension. I’ve ridden lots of bikes but when I rode the MV for the first time I genuinely had a hard time just getting the bike around the track. It was definitely dangerous. It felt like the front and rear wheels were working against each other.

This was on the standard suspension at that point. I am no suspension guru but I know enough to get a bike ball park and nothing really helped.

With the write off status nagging me I was sure something was bent. I took the bike to Motorliner who are a well known engineering company that have all the tools to check a bike and they were happy that it was straight. The rake (measured from the ground not from the frame) was steeper than stock but all the other dimensions were ok and this was we think due to my having raised the back a bit and lowered the front to quicken the steering.

I then sent the forks and shock to Ktech to rebuild both and redamp and respring as I concluded it had to be the suspension. They couldn’t change the front springs (nothing available to suit fork size) but they did the valving and resprung the rear.

Next track outing was better but still nowhere near right and still had the same clear issues.

Essentially the rear just ‘wollowed’ in corners, with faster corners worse than slower ones. I tried increased rebound on the rear which didn’t do much, increased pre load at the rear seemed to help but was topped out before it made a big different

I returned geometry to stock just in case my changes had been the cause (I didn’t think it was but was running out of ideas).

I then purchased a new Nitron race shock built to my weight etc. I expected this to be the answer but as supplied the same issues were present as the Ktech original. Very disappointed! Further adjustment on the Nitron improved things (more preload and rebound at the rear) to a point where you could hustle the bike around at a decent pace but I was still having to ride around the same mid corner issues.

The Maxton front end is great and feeling and stability on braking and corner entry fine now. It’s just the rear.

At the end of last year I bought 2 heavier springs for the Nitron and fitted the heaviest but as mentioned the last two outings were wet so it wasn’t possible to really test the shock.

I’ll be out again soon and hopefully with better weather to see if the stiffer spring along with added rebound and some fine tuning will cure the issues. Fingers crossed. Other issues that I encountered.

Although the bike seemed to run ok when I bought it- I only ran it briefly before taking it apart, on rebuilding it only ran on 3, a new injector fixed the problem.

The bike had a nasty alarm on it. I stripped it off and put everything back as it should be as far as I could see (electrics as well as motors are not a strong point for me). The bike did all it seemed to fine but I then noticed that I could turn the bike off by the key and it would still run....I also got random dash lights from time to time but nothing that affected my enjoyment so I left it as it was.

I did purchase a used loom though and more of that later.....

The other matter was getting the shock out. The linkage is under pressure from the frame plates so you have to lossen the various engine and swing arm nuts to get it out but you still need to tap it out and getting it back in is a nightmare. I though this can’t be right and was again questioning if my bike was a bit bent but after reading various posts on here i was satisfied it was just how they are. After someone mentioned it on here I recall, i made up a tool from a threaded bar, nuts and big washers that I can put between the frame plates and using the nut gently wind out the two plates and the linkage comes in and out no problem.

After one test session I found that my headstock has a bit of play in it, I decided to clean and re grease the bearings in the headstock. Found you need two special tools! I bought the tools and it’s back together (I have ridden the bike since doing this and it hasn’t fixed my handling problems, frustratingly it felt absolutely no different...).

I’ve bought a huge torque wrench and an impact driver to get the rear wheel off! I’ve still not managed to torque the front wheel nut on the spindle. I’ve bought a few 41mm deep sockets but none are quite deep enough so I use two 41mm spanner’s and eye in the torque setting but at least I can remove the spindle now (when I have tyre changes the tyre fitters do not have balancing tools that can balance the wheel with the spindle in so I’m taking the spindle in and out more than most.

The other issue on track is the lack of a slipper clutch. I bought a used STM slipper clutch from someone I made contact with a while ago and who has a few nice parts. The clutch is for the Brutale, but reading on here it was evident that with the F1000s plates it would fit the F4 and the seller confirmed this.

I bought a gasket and oil and took the bike and clutch to the people who do the dyno work on my bike. After a few hours they call me, it’s all installled but the nut in the kit doesn’t fit on your input shaft....

They took it all out and put it back together and I took the bike home.

Further research has established that the evo 1 F4 has a 25mm thread on the end of the input shaft and the evo 2 (and I suspect all others) have a 22mm threaded end.....

So be warned if you have a slipper clutch for a Brutale it will only fit if you have an evo 2 or 3!!

At present I’m waiting for a reply from STM to see if they have the evo 1 parts I need to fit the clutch. STM did a clutch fit the evo 1 and it states ‘25mm’ thread but the clutch kit itself is discontinued. Hoping thy may have some parts kicking around but not holding out much hope.

Does anyone know if a complete evo 2 gearbox will fit into an evo 1 motor as being a cassette that is not too much of a job if I can find a gear box?

Next and final point.....night before taking bike to get clutch fitted I do a test start, turn the key, nothing. Go back in the morning and all’s fine again.

Take it to the shop and it’s not working again. They find that if they open the feeder relay and manually activate it the bike will start so we assume it’s this relay that’s dud. When I get back I see I’ve a Bosch after market relay and I am sure I read that having one of these causes my odd ignition problem where I can take the key out anc the bike still runs? So I buy a new MV relay from Twinstar who I’ve bought lots of bits from, gets expensive (£50!) with postage but a good service.

I then remember my spare loom, turns out it’s got an original relay fitted. I try that and nothing. So I’ve probably spent £50 on a relay I already had and didn’t actually need in any case....

My bike still won’t start or do anything unless I open the relay and make the contact manually and then the dash doesn’t show up, the bike just starts on the starter.

Any ideas?

Also. Will my spare loom which I now know to be an evo 2 loom fit my bike as it’s not too much work to swap them?

Also anyone know which wires to connect to bypass the ignition key before I swap the loom???

Thanks all and hope you are all still awake!

Pat. (UK)
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:10 PM
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Hello Pat,

Thats an impressive first post haha.
I cant help you but the f4 "specialists" will surely try and help you out.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:43 PM
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Hiya Pat.

Yes, impressive post. Would love to see pics of the bike when you're able.

I have a 2007 F4, but am not in the 'specialist' or even half-specialist class.

Hopefully, another member with a spare 30 minutes to get through your post will rally to the cause!!

2007 MV F4 1000R
2018 CBR1000RR SP2 : 2011 CBR1000RR : 2004 CBR1000RR : 2003 CBR954RR : 2001 CBR929RR (Erion Racing Edition)
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 04:17 PM
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Welcome to the family !!! Quite the introduction. Entirely too much to address all at once.

Yes, gear boxes will interchange...go for a SPR box if you can...closer ratios. Be aware there was a change to front sprocket spacing somewhere along the way.

Wire loom should interchange.

Where in the world (UK Obviously...but where) are you located??

Electrical problems require a methodical step by step process. The service manuals have good troubleshooting charts you should use.

Post a pic of your F4.... !!!

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 02:07 AM
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My God,what a first post,it would have to be a record.I was going to ask also where do you live and I saw Brands Hatch and pounds mentioned.Now I know (add your location to your profile).Welcome to the forum Mr novelist.


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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Me748 View Post
The other matter was getting the shock out. The linkage is under pressure from the frame plates so you have to lossen the various engine and swing arm nuts to get it out but you still need to tap it out and getting it back in is a nightmare. I though this canít be right and was again questioning if my bike was a bit bent but after reading various posts on here i was satisfied it was just how they are. After someone mentioned it on here I recall, i made up a tool from a threaded bar, nuts and big washers that I can put between the frame plates and using the nut gently wind out the two plates and the linkage comes in and out no problem.
Lets eat this elephant one bite at a time.
I'll take this one.

Interesting that your instinct is to remove the rear shock by lifting it up past the linkage.
It's much easier to drop it down after loosening it from the shock from the linkage and unbolting the Shock Absorber Support Plate (red arrow in the picture below) under the swing arm. Obviously you'll need to suspend and support rear of the bike prior to doing this.
This certainly works for the standard Sachs shock and Ohlins units.


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https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/12-f4...mburini-7.html
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hi. Thanks for all the replies.

I live in Kent and brands hatch is where I often ride simply because it’s close, has got good facilities and I know it well so a good basis for testing

Ref shock removal. Mine is the piggy back type, i don’t think it will go through the swing arm?

I did read various posts where people seemed to negotiate the shock out without removing the linkage but I’ve never been able to. It would certainly be better if I could drop it out if it’s possible.

I’ll try and post some picks 🙂
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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My feeling is that the key switch is the culprit.

Does anyone know which of the 4 wires that connect the key switch should be joined to bipass the key to see if that works?

The 40amp fuse is fine as are all the others, I’ve changed the feeder (general?) relay.

There is not really that much involved but as suggested I’ll work through the options before I go to changing the loom.

Ref swapping the gearbox. Is a ‘simple’ exercise given it’s a cassette type? I’ve not got the motor manual.

Thanks

Pat
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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The photo of the bike in the garages has the standard black wheels. I actually think the colour scheme looks better with black wheels?

The discs are interesting. They were on it when I bought it. They are shark tooth and really pointy! They are thick discs and either fully or semi floating but have no makers marks on them.

I’ve put the standard discs on my standard wheels now which have wet tyres on now (rather than the sharks tooth ones as they looked quite dangerous!)

I bought the quick change sprocket set up which is nice but you wonder why MV designed it that way in the first place!
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 05:42 AM
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I love the silver 'R' wheels but I'm somewhat biased. I do think they look better than the black 'stars' on yours because of the silver in the fairing. From a track perspective though, I'm sure you'd be more concerned about weight rather than appearance.

2007 MV F4 1000R
2018 CBR1000RR SP2 : 2011 CBR1000RR : 2004 CBR1000RR : 2003 CBR954RR : 2001 CBR929RR (Erion Racing Edition)
1985 Honda VF1000R : 1985 Honda NS400R
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