Does ride height equal seat height? Raising height 5 mm. - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Does ride height equal seat height? Raising height 5 mm.

Is a increase in ride height equal to an increase in seat height? For example if the seat height was 30 inches would increasing the ride height by 5 mm increase the seat height by the same amount?

Reason I ask is because my MV feels like a 999 or an MV with a flat tire since the seat level is almost parallel to the ground. When I bought the MV, it was waaay to tall so we lowered it. After 900 miles, I think the suspension has broken in and rear end has sagged a bit.

So, my MV is at Pro Italia getting it's first service and I've asked them to raise the ride height between 3 to 5 mm. I realize it's a compromise between better handling and not spending $700 because I dropped the bike but I'm just trying to get that good middle ground. I don't think a 5mm increase in seat height will be a problem.

Just FYI, I'm 5'5 with a 30 inseam. I have Spidi boots that give me an extra inch with makes the current height doable. On the otherside, I'm also 215 pounds (yeah, I working on it) so I think that's help sagged the suspension. My rear suspension settings are on stock and front suspension is a few click softer than stock.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:18 PM
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Considering your height wouldn't a bit of suspension sag be ok?

Now 3mm is just a thick pair of underdacks - not much! HeHeHe!

MV Agusta 1000S 1+1 (2004); Suzuki GSXR 600 (2005); Honda CB750; Honda CB175; BSA 350 (1939) ;
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:25 PM
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Alan, yes ride height and the seat height are related. The steering is due to the geometry change they created by lowering the bike. What you need to do is decrease the rake angle to get the bike to steer properly again. You can have them raise the rear and lower the front to get the bike back in the ballpark without raising the seat height too much.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Sag is good if I didn't ride canyons to work everyday. But it makes my MV feel like the front turns and then the back follows -instead of one perfectly integrated piece.

Like I said, it's a compromise. I doubt I could go more than 5mm on the rear and I think the front is as low as it can go.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:40 PM
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Set the sag to some sane number, I'm not sure what it should be for that bike exactly... Probably something like 30mm. You'll probably want 35mm for the front.

Then set ride height from there with the ride height adjuster, not sag. The sag might change a bit due to ride height, check it again after doing ride height.

You might also be able to achieve a similar goal by lowering the front. That's kind of a no-no on the 750 because of tire clearance, but I think the 1000 isn't so bad? Not sure...

Back to the original question, yeah, increasing ride height 5mm is related to the seat height, but it's not 1:1. The 5mm increase should be measured vertically from the rear axle to somewhere on the tail section. The seat will go up a little less.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 10:08 PM
 
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If you only change rear ride height (or front), you alter geometry. If the goal is to change steering response, then a change in geometry is appropriate. If you are concerned about seat height, then you must alter both front and rear ride height to approximate the same geometry.

Of course those changes will cause a change in CG and swing arm angle which have other consequences. It's always intertwined and not so simple unless you are only pottering around.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your responses. Since it's not a 1:1 change, I think a 5 mm increase will be okay.

I left the setup to Pro Italia when I got the bike. We spent most of Saturday working on it and it handled perfectly for about a week. At first I thought I was loosing air (even started a thread about that) but I believe it was the suspension just getting broken in.

It's kind of funny that when I lived in Phoenix, I'd ride the canyons maybe two - three times a month and the set up won't have really bothed me. Now that I drive through canyons daily, I'm more aware "attitude" of the bike.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:06 PM
 
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Adjusting in 5mm increments is appropriate. At least that's the way I always approach it so I don't go overboard.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-02-2006, 12:29 AM
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Another option for the geometry is to look at tires. If you are limited by the front, i.e you can't lower it anymore, you can consider changing the tires. Different model or make tires have different diameters even though the tire sizes are the same. A little detective work can yield a front tire with a smaller diameter or a rear tire with a larger diameter. This will net the same effect as raising the rear or lowering the front.

Another thing to consider is the compression damping. If the front is a little soft you can get a little delay between the steering input and actual turn-in. Adding a click or two of compression will get rid of the soft feel if that is the culprit. Of course you should check tire pressures also. My inclination though is to believe that the geometry is out of wack because of the suspension change.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-02-2006, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ack. My MV hasn't been at Pro Italia for more than 24 hours and already I'm getting separation anxiety. How many more hours till Saturday!
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