Magnesium parts, what to do? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Magnesium parts, what to do?

I have several mag parts but i want to change it's color (it's in gold at the moment).

I'm uncertain about what's the best thing to do. Should i just paint the parts, anodise, powdercoat, somthing else?
I don't know if magnesium should have any specific treatment different than aluminum or other metals regularly used in bike parts?

Any tips?

Thanks
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MV-999R View Post
I have several mag parts but i want to change it's color (it's in gold at the moment).

I'm uncertain about what's the best thing to do. Should i just paint the parts, anodise, powdercoat, somthing else?
I don't know if magnesium should have any specific treatment different than aluminum or other metals regularly used in bike parts?

Any tips?

Thanks
As long as the Elektron coating from the factory hasn't been compromised then you can more or less surface finish magnesium with most things.

I wouldn't recommend anodising as I'm not sure how magnesium would react to this treatment.

If you have mag wheels or any other shock baring components, then it is wise to have them tested/ X-rayed for fractures.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JDS View Post
As long as the Elektron coating from the factory hasn't been compromised then you can more or less surface finish magnesium with most things.

I wouldn't recommend anodising as I'm not sure how magnesium would react to this treatment.

If you have mag wheels or any other shock baring components, then it is wise to have them tested/ X-rayed for fractures.
Thanks J

I think i'll just have them painted.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 04:31 PM
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Castle had his mag parts painted to match the originals for his "sleeper" F4 (not much of a sleeper with those Ohlins superbike forks).

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Castle had his mag parts painted to match the originals for his "sleeper" F4 (not much of a sleeper with those Ohlins superbike forks).
Yes i have asked Dave about that some time ago and he offered his advice
But this time i have some mag wheels arriving for one of the Ducs and i want them in black, so i was wondering if painting is the way to go.
Thanks.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:15 PM
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In case it helps anyone else here is the PM I sent to Tiago (MV-999R):

Hi Tiago,
Pete the painter says that:
1. You must use a good quality etch primer
2. A light spray of a high build two pack primer (this acts as a hardner)
3. Base coat (this is the colour of the item being painted)
4. Two coats of a 2 pack flattened (to reduce the gloss look) clear coat.

It's important to keep the coats pretty thin as you don't want to build up too much thickness to the part.

I'm not a painter so those instructions don't mean a whole lot to me but I'm assured any good painter will understand what that all means.


Tiago, as for wheels, I'm not sure what to suggest. Would you like to contact my buddy Pete the painter and get his opinion?

Dave.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Sure Dave. If it's not too much trouble, please ask him.

One of my doubts is if all that process should be made on top of the current gold "paint" (don't really know if it's paint) or should the current gold "paint" be taken off first somehow.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:28 PM
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I just went through this....what a pain in the ass.

I have a set of oro mag star rims I want to change to satin black. I have talked to numerous reputable finishers.... and all had their own ideas. So I contacted MARVIC. They were very helpful.

They suggested straight painting even though on their web site they recommend a powder paint. Here is what they say...they were very helpful, very nice and very fast a responding:

the re-painting of wheels is a very delicate process that could completely compromise their integrity.

In particular, two issues are absolutely fundamental: first the blasting must be done in order not to reduce the thickness and tolerances of the machining, second, before painting the metal must be protected with an anti oxidation treatment, otherwise over time you can cause oxide and in the long run make the wheels very dangerous.

Moreover, even the extraction phase of the organs of mounting could be difficult and "dangerous" for the integrity of the circle.


For these reasons I can suggest you to "scrap the gold paint" with the sandpaper, of different dimensions "smaller and smaller" and then to paint the wheels with
spray paint. In this way you do not have to remove bearings and so on since temperature for paint is about 70, and you do not risk to damage the anti oxidation treatment.

Is it also possible to to send us a package with the wheels,

but considering transport costs it would be really expensive, since usually only for re-paint ancd check, without
transport the amount is of about 350,00 per set. its address and your question.

I sincerely hope that my message has been helpful for you.
.................................................. .................................................

I then asked about powder coating at 380 degrees for two 10 min cycles. First cycle is a partial cure of an epoxy powder then a second cycle for a regular powder: Here is wht they said....................

room temperature for powder paint is not enough.
It would be enough for spray paint.
But to say the truth to me 380 is too much.
Usually powder paint get dry at 200.
Take care of the bearings and so on!
With kindest regards

.................................................. ........................................

So after much research I decided to buy new unfinished but corrosion protected mag star rims from MARVIC and have MARVIC finish them in satin black. They should be here is a week or two.

So as far as MARVIC is concerned used mag parts with a factory finish should be sanded and sprayed to maintain metal and corosion protection integrity. Many reputable finisher have disaggreed with MARVIC but.....I kinda decided that I would listen to the manufacturer..

my .02$
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MV-999R View Post
Sure Dave. If it's not too much trouble, please ask him.

One of my doubts is if all that process should be made on top of the current gold "paint" (don't really know if it's paint) or should the current gold "paint" be taken off first somehow.
I think your next step is to work out where you are right now. By that I mean verify the coating thats on the wheels because that will most llikely determine the steps you need to take to get to where you want to be (correctly coloured wheels that are still safe in the long term).
Once you verify the current wheel coating I'll contact Pete the painter. He's an honest guy, if he does not know he will tell me. He won't guess.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Great info bogie, thanks a lot

The wheels i'm talking about look perfect, without any corrosion.

But i wonder if the anti oxidation treatment can be easly made just for security reasons before i repaint the wheels?
Anyone know what that anti oxidation treatment consists of?
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