overtorqued bolt - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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overtorqued bolt

Seriously, MV should be slapped for how torqued some of these bolts are.


I'm in the process of pulling the rearsets and the exhaust heat shield to paint. One bolt refuses to budge. It is starting to strip the inside of the bolt head. Before I completely bugger it, what can I do to get this damn thing unstuck?

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:38 PM
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Which allen tool exactly are you using to get it off?

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 06:41 PM
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And before you answer, the rearset bolts have a more permanent loctite from the factory. You need about a minute of direct heat gun on the bolt/frame plate before attempting.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 07:01 PM
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I've never seen LocTite on foot peg mounts.......
The release temperature of LocTite is 500F......good luck with a heat gun
Try some Kroil or a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone

Yes, I've had stuck ones......I just drill them
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 07:20 PM
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I use a propane torch to heat up the metal surrounding the bolt...and then judicious application of impact (impact driver and 16 oz hammer). When all that fails the drill comes out.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 07:30 PM
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I never saw rearsets that look like footpegs. This pic is from an F4, not an F3 but it's a different loctite used on both, compared to alkost all the other bolts. Need to heat it up. I stripped two. Kroil that creaps (sic) was not my friend. A 12" or longer ratchet gives you the leverage you need. The factory supplied allen keys are terrible for this job.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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The left side ones were tight, but doable in about 30 seconds. Right side, top one was a beastie and bottom one won't budge. Zero loctite. They are just torqued to fuckall. I'm beginning to see the torque paint pen color in my thoughts.

Just using a L shaped allen wrench. Going over to a buddies tomorrow or Tues he's got a torch and the allen bits so hopefully we can work some magic.

I know I said rearsets but meant the stock pegs haha.

So how do you drill it out of this fails? gah.

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 01:03 AM
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This is what Ed was referring to.....an impact screwdriver
Every motorcycle owner should have one.....bought mine in '75 it was cheaper than a Craftsman one
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 03:49 AM
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Might I suggest you'd be better using a long bar with a hex socket. The leverage should crack it off without too much effort.

I like impact guns, generally they're great, but after stripping the pins off a locking wheel nut key with a waaay overtorqued lug nut courtesy of the tyre shop retards (about 30 seconds of impact action on a HD Milwaukee tool with nothing but dust coming off the nut), the impact action contributed to damage in a scenario where a long bar probably would have cracked it off with a lot less carnage and damage.

I wouldn't use an impact screwdriver with all that aluminium about. It's unnecessary and could cause collateral damage, not least cracks to the ally.

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpNyC View Post
So how do you drill it out of this fails? gah.
It's the steel to aluminum interface, not necessarily excessive tightening torque...bolt corrodes in place.

Drilling is easy, the internal hex is the guide for your drill bit. Select a bit that is the same size as the threaded shaft of the bolt, drill until the head falls off. Now you have an unloaded, unshielded bolt shaft sticking out. Usually the threaded shaft can then be easily removed.

If still stuck apply penetrating oil, apply heat and unscrew with your vice grips.

But if you were trying to undo this one with the hex key from the tool kit I will wager using a proper tool will make short work of it. Proper hex socket and breaker bar.
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