My advice on Lithium Ion batteries & the 40A fuse - Page 4 - MVAgusta.net
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:27 PM
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Is that 50 amps DRAW or 50 amps CHARGE.?????

The only thing that could draw that much current is the starter motor, but it should not be connected to the battery when the solenoid is not activated..... but the charging system could easily put out 50 amps or more. The regulator should be controlling this.

OR, you have some serious short circuit in the high amperage wiring..... but that should just blow the fuse constantly.

What is the voltage reading when you see a 50 amp "draw"?

Typical EFI bike will draw 15~20 amps when everything is "on"...lights, fuel pump, ignition/injection, etc. That negative current flow should go to near break even (zero amps or slightly positive) at idle with the charge system working, and positive 10~20 amps at higher rpms.

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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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I have no other odd problems with the bike. I did replace the SPU a few months ago because of a no-start condition. It also fixed a problem I had with the headlight turning off at high RPM. Never replaced the ECU, though. I'm going to disconnect cables to inspect and clean them tomorrow.

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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by moocowman View Post
I suppose if the injectors or coils were pulling too much current, the 15A fuse would have been blow. I measured the current draw anyway. I'm getting 11A through the injector/ignition coil fuse at 8000 RPM. That number seems to make sense. It's a 15A fuse. No other fuse is blown. So, I'd think it's safe to assume nothing else is pulling an excessive amount of current. Just in case, I disconnected all the lights and cooling fan. I'm still getting around 50A at 4000 RPM. The largest fuses are 15A for injector/coil, high beam, low beam, latch relay, and fan. (Is the starter solenoid the same as the "latch relay"?). With all the things I disconnected, the fuses don't add up to 50A. I've checked the cable to the alternator. It's tight. Any suggestions?

This thread has gone sideways. Should I be making a new thread?
No, the starter solenoid is not the same as the Latch Relay

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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:39 AM
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No, the starter solenoid is not the same as the Latch Relay

The only current though the 40 amp fuse is the current required to energize and turn the starter.
Starter current does not go through that fuse (upwards of 250 amps at initial start-up and 80~90 amps continuous as starter is turning).
Starter current draw goes through the solenoid secondary contacts direct from battery to starter.

The charging system and the fuse box go through the 40A fuse. It connects the battery to the wiring harness and regulator.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Starter current does not go through that fuse (upwards of 250 amps at initial start-up and 80~90 amps continuous as starter is turning).
Starter current draw goes through the solenoid secondary contacts direct from battery to starter.

The charging system and the fuse box go through the 40A fuse. It connects the battery to the wiring harness and regulator.
Yes, Ed is correct...I think. There is a direct connection from the battery to the starter through the main contacts of the start solenoid when that solenoid is activated. All other bike electrical supply goes through the 40 amp fuse.

I am looking at a 2007 910R Electrical Diagram and it's not as clear as it should be. Meaning the Quality of teh diagram sucks. There are significant differences between the 2005/6 bikes and the 2007 bike. (Including the quality of the wiring diagram.)

More to follow.

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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"Is that 50 amps DRAW or 50 amps CHARGE.?????" Would be the same thing in this case? If the ammeter is measuring how much current is going through the wire, I think it would mean something is drawing 50A and the alternator is putting out 50A.

My diagram shows battery -> 40A fuse -> Alternator. So, even though I measuring between the alternator and the battery, something else making demands on the battery could be causing the draw. But I think I've ruled out anything else because I disconnected all the big ticket items. I just removed the relay, checked all the connectors and terminal ends. I popped out all the spade terminal ends for the white connector that plugs into the relay and there just a little corrosion on the spades. Cleaned, snugged up the connectors. Tested and no change.

All I can think of, which I can't imagine is even possible, is that the battery is making the alternator produce all this current. After all, that current has to go somewhere. If none of the regular consumers aren't eating it up, the only thing left is the battery. OR the alternator isn't regulating its charge. Like, it keeps pushing out maximum amp even though nothing is asking for it. I don't know what voltage the field wire is supposed to read. So, reading that wire wouldn't do me any good.

I'm just going to go out to to grab a battery. I'll let you know what happens.
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:29 PM
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This is a DC circuit....Amperage is directional. Current going to the battery is positive amperage (charging system). Current leaving the battery is Negative amperage (Draw).

So what are you seeing. Use a DC Ammeter. And if your charge system is pushing 50 amps to the battery the voltage should also reflect that....

Suggest you have a COMPETENT technician do a simple 2 meter charge system test on your bike (voltage and amperage) after you install your good (tested good!!) battery.

ANY decent motorcycle tech (any brand...they all work the same way) should be able to quickly perform this most basic of charging system tests.

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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I installed an AGM battery. 10 Amps at 4000 RPM. 14 Amps at 8000 RPM. So, it's the darn battery. I guess I should change this thread to DON"T BUY CHEAP LITHIUM ION BATTERIES. I'm not going to even try to figure out the science behind why this happened.
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moocowman View Post
I installed an AGM battery. 10 Amps at 4000 RPM. 14 Amps at 8000 RPM. So, it's the darn battery. I guess I should change this thread to DON"T BUY CHEAP LITHIUM ION BATTERIES. I'm not going to even try to figure out the science behind why this happened.
Ohm's law applies. If a cell of your battery shorts, then resistance to current flow goes down and thus amperage (current flow) is higher.

People often do not realize the interaction their battery has in a closed DC circuit.
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 08:36 PM
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