Long term storage regime - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Long term storage regime

OK guys, what's the best way of long term storage regime for our bikes. I don't plan to ride the Tambo much due to riding other bikes. Last year I put a total of 5km on her just to ride her around the block. the year before I put just 120km on the clock.

We don't get snow etc where I live. So the coldest temperature is 5c in winter time, and the hotest temp would be 40c in summer.

My Tambo is on front and rear stands and I do start her up every month or so for about 20mins and also bounce the front forks. The aftermarket rear stand has a much longer axle /shaft so I can run the bike up and go through the gears without fear of the bike coming off the rear stand.

I still change all the fluids once a year ie Amsoil engine oil (has alot of anti rush properties), brake, clutch fluids,coolant etc I even did the fork oil last year.

My plan is to go through 1 tank of fuel per year just to exercise the engine. Our premium 98RON fuel is pretty good so we don't need to use fuel stabiliser etc.

Most of the time the battery is disconnected and plug the exhaust with rags when not in use.

Yeah I do wax her once a month and covered up.

Anything else I should do except try to ride her more often.

Slow is smooth and smooth is fast!!

Last edited by minime; 01-23-2019 at 04:11 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 05:53 AM
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Very contentious subject.

I store some of my bikes, but would not run for only 20 mins every month or so. I think/believe there would still be condensation remaining in the collector box which would lead to rusting. I think for long-term storage the bike should be not run at all (after draining fuel), OR, as you have previously done, give it a few kilometres on the road and then return to storage.

I expect to read differing opinions on this because I do not think there's a definitive procedure.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 06:11 AM
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i cant believe this thread was posted. I was just about to post this same thing up.
Ive got big problems. Im in the same boat.
But i went to empty the fuel tank the other day. Had about 2litres in it....
and booooom some black goo sludge was coming out and upon further inspection the fuel has eaten (melted) a black fuel hose in the tank
i do not know what to do

so please yes i am very keen to hear some answers to this very subjective topic

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 06:13 AM
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What you are doing sounds a good plan to me..... but when you run it, run it until the fans cycle on/off before shutting down. That will give everything a chance to come to full temp and evaporate any moisture in the oil and exhaust system.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 06:37 AM
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NO fuel is good enough to go long term without stabilizer. Find a good one and use it.

Rodent intrusion is probably your biggest enemy. Find some nice plastic exhaust caps.

Is the bike indoors in a climate controlled area, or not?

The hoses in the tank will degrade over time so maintenance on those is recommended every three years.

@anothermvfanatic: Rob, you need to drain your tank and refurbish the hoses. If you need parts, let me know. The J30R10 immersible hose is key.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 07:02 AM
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Cool More on (Moron?) Storage.....

Here is an image of my bikes in storage for the winter:

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In my unheated trailer are 8 bikes: 2007 Ducati Monster with a plastic tank, 2007 Ducati Monster with an aluminum tank, 2007 MV Agusta 312R with a steel tank, 2010 MV Agusta B4 1090RR with a plastic tank, 2015 B3 800RR with a brand new plastic tank, 2010 Harley Davidson Electra-Glide with a steel tank, 1963 Honda C100A Cub with a steel tank, and a 1961 MV Agusta TRA 125 with a steel tank.

Barring the two vintage bikes (which need restoration work), all but one of these bikes is stored with a very full fuel tank stabilized with Stabil Marine Treatment for Ethanol, each is in a sport chock sitting on its tires, each is on a smart battery tender device, and each is covered.

The fuel tanks are full to minimize the area available for condensation from forming during cycles from cold to hot and back. They are not filled so full as to cause them to overflow when the trailer gets hot in the spring sun. The bikes were run up to fan cycle temperatures with stabilized fuel to disperse the fuel in the lines and injectors.

The exception to this is the B3 800RR. It has a brand new fuel tank due to warranty replacement. It had just enough fuel in it to get it home. When it went into the trailer, I put the appropriate amount fuel stabilizer in the tank and then ran the bike until it exhausted the fuel. Yes, I ran the tank dry. I then let the bike cool, put it on a tender in a sport chock, left the tank open and covered it. This is an experiment.

Were the tank metal and prone to rust and empty, I would spray a light coat of metal protectant in the tank and maybe hag a desiccant bag in there to absorb moisture.

These bikes have been stored like this every winter since new. There has never been a starting or drivability issue come spring. (Except for my 312R after Curtis killed it....).

I do not start them periodically. I do not roll them off the chock to rotate wheels. I do not uncover them.

Yesterday was the first day I even looked into the trailer to see that they were still there. The trailer is locked and in a position where it would be nigh on impossible to steal anything.

THese bikes go into storage around the first of November and they will not come out of storage until the end of April or middle of May depending on the weather and my abilities.

That is a solid 6 months of storage. Every year.

Go crazy and do what makes you comfortable. Keep in mind some things are damaging....like leaving a bike full of moisture and open to rodents.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
NO fuel is good enough to go long term without stabilizer. Find a good one and use it.

Rodent intrusion is probably your biggest enemy. Find some nice plastic exhaust caps.

Is the bike indoors in a climate controlled area, or not?

The hoses in the tank will degrade over time so maintenance on those is recommended every three years.

@anothermvfanatic: Rob, you need to drain your tank and refurbish the hoses. If you need parts, let me know. The J30R10 immersible hose is key.

Yes, bike is in doors in a garage, our temperature is similar to LA temps and humidity is fairly low in summer. For 15 to 20 mins I don't just idle the engine, I do modulate the revs to make sure that the engine is exercise.

So the consensus is that it's better to keep the fuel tank topped up as much as possible.

Slow is smooth and smooth is fast!!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 05:02 PM
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Or bone dry.....and if you start it run that engine until the fans cycle on/off.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 05:24 PM
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Here is a post I put on the Ducati forum:

I at least ascertain that the oil in the bike is reasonably new prior to it sitting for months, or take it out just before the weather and change it. Most bikes sit in a cold garage and while this, in and of itself is not necessarily bad, it is the change in temperature and the accompanying changes in humidity levels that facilitate condensation both on the inside and the outside of any machine left in ambient conditions. A cold bike in a cold garage in weather that suddenly warms up and humidifies is the absolute worse condition for any machine. Open the door and the warm air and humidity streams in and condenses on cold metal. It's physics. Or perhaps more accurately, thermodynamics. This is how gas tanks rust, even with gas in them. Thus, internal engine parts coated in a film of oil is the only internal protection these parts have, and even then, only some of them.

I would also fill or rust proof the tank inside with a spray of light oil. Unless the tank is coated inside, fill the tank with non ethanol gas but even this stuff is not that good. You should change that out periodically and run it in the car. I would also take the weight off the tires to keep them from flat spotting. A single drop of oil or two in the cylinders is also a good idea but I would turn the engine over periodically or run it on the road up to temp once in a while. Spraying WD-40 on the plated and alum parts is also good. Use 303 protectant on the rubber.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minime View Post
Yes, bike is in doors in a garage, our temperature is similar to LA temps and humidity is fairly low in summer. For 15 to 20 mins I don't just idle the engine, I do modulate the revs to make sure that the engine is exercise.

So the consensus is that it's better to keep the fuel tank topped up as much as possible.
Frequent starting on the paddock stand is bad news, the key thing is the formation of moisture into the oil if you don't get the engine to operating temperature to burn it off.

This is the same for cars that do short trips. Short town trips are listed as "heavy use" in the service books requiring more frequent servicing.

I would say at the very least the fans must turn on, but even then I don't know if that is sufficient to burn off all the moisture and volatiles in the oil without riding it. You can see this formation of condensation clearly when you cold start the bike and there is water coming out the exhaust. The same is happening inside the sump.

Most important thing is to change the oil every year if you do this!

Last edited by PTsalas; 01-24-2019 at 02:28 AM.
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