Why you need a TAPERED 55mm socket..... - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Why you need a TAPERED 55mm socket.....

Here are pictures of sprocket and wheel nuts and what happens when you use the wrong tool
Or the right tool incorrectly

Front row L>R
1.good
2&3 socket not on all the way

Back row L>R
1,2&3 56mm straight socket
4.2 3/16" straight socket
5. used a pipe wrench and hammer and punch

2nd picture
Contact marks on TAPERED sockets that's full contact the way it's supposed to be

3rd picture SpeedyMoto TAPERED socket part #04-0203 with the 1/2" drive all the way through
[email protected]
866-375-0727
AND THEY GIVE A DISCOUNT TO FORUM MEMBERS

4th picture correct tool for removing wheel and sprocket nuts... I use a CP-734 425lbft of torque set on 5 of 10, if you don't have one, take your tapered socket and breaker bar to the local tire store and have them remove it, then reinstall the nut and ride home....
and do whatever you needed the wheel off for

5th picture correct lube for the axle threads.....DO NOT PUT IT ON THE TAPER

6th picture the best way to lock the rear wheel.....I DIDN'T REMOVE THE ARROW THUNDER FOR THE PICTURE

DO NOT LOCK THE REAR WHEEL BY PUTTING THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR....THE GEARS ARE CASE
HARDENED AND CAN CRACK

7th picture......When your cracked gear breaks and locks your countershaft......
My friend Bazza at 175mph in the banking a Daytona......not what you want to do
Official explanation.....the tire, look at the picture, tires are fine
Bazza told me the transmission locked....I believe him, look for the video on YouTube, the failure is instantaneous

AND PULLING THE CLUTCH DOES NOTHING!!!!!

8th picture set up for showing the taper

9th picture......the taper!!!!!
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post #2 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 05:02 PM
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So where did you source the correct tapered socket from?
I'm in the UK and bought the first combo frt/rear socket off Amazon, advertised as fitting the TV (it didn't). Then found one for Ducati's. Bought that, costing over 60 but had to machine the internal 'peaks' down to make it fit. Did the job, but wrapped the nut with PTFE tape beforehand, to try and prevent it marking the nut, with reasonable success.
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post #3 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 05:23 PM
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Same here, bought an Oberon alloy socket on advice from my dealer, the mechanic did admit that they get through a few as they eventually break. I could see as soon as I offered it up it was a poor fit. Measured the alleged tapper with vernier calliper and there wasn't any that I could measure. Did some school boy trigonometry and established that there should be a significant measurable difference which there wasn't. This was returned for a refund as it was advertised at tapered when it plainly wasn't.

Next, and on advice from this forum, I ordered, at some considerable expense (when considering the addition of shipping and duty) a SpeedyMoto socket from the States. Stainless steel and will outlast me and the bike. Fits firmly on the nut but again no perceivable tapper. Needed to use a rattle gun to get the wheel nut off which has marred it slightly. Whilst all aspects of the bike are things of beauty a few marks on a nut that needs to be removed and checked quite often I'm not going to loose too much sleep over.

In the pursuit of a tapered socket, and one that wasn't as weighty as the SpeedyMoto item, I did buy another alloy one from Germany. This has a stepped internal design that at least tips a hat towards fitting a tapered nut. This is carried in my tool roll when on tour, just in case.
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Defected to a Ducati Multistrada 1260S Touring
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post #4 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 07:53 PM
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Instead of impact wrench I use a breaker bar with extension. This was the advise I got from a suspension shop. The advise was to apply controlled force and let it move on its own. No need to try to loosen in one movement. Push with body and since you have all that leverage you will be applying enough force... give it time and it will move.

The socket I use is steel. Don't remember if advertised as tapered but it fits all the way on to the nut. Some from a local ducati shop(bent on them trying to change me rear tire) and from a friend with a ducati did not seat fully. I've tried a few and as you can see from above threads it may not even be tapered if they say it is.
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post #5 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 11:22 PM
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So where do we then get the correct socket for a reasonable price?
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post #6 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-07-2018, 04:48 AM
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post #7 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-07-2018, 07:31 AM
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So where do we then get the correct socket for a reasonable price?
Mine is a motocorse socket with 3/4 drive expensive but works a treat, I did have an Oberon with 1/2 drive but it broke quite quickly
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post #8 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 11:49 AM
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I bought this one Oberon: https://www.designcorse.com/products...-removal-tools


Seems to fit well.
Should I be concerned?

Thanks,

Eddie

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post #9 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
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I bought this one Oberon: https://www.designcorse.com/products...-removal-tools


Seems to fit well.
Should I be concerned?

Hi Eddie, the description on that put me right off.

Says stainless steel in header text yet says hard anodised further down the page... I'm confused... anodising is a treatment for aluminium... The rest of the text inspires no confidence.

I returned the Oberon I ordered some time back. My dealership at the time used them but said that they broke every now and then.

Chas
Previously a MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso
Defected to a Ducati Multistrada 1260S Touring
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post #10 of 84 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 04:39 PM
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I broke an oberon one . Now got a motocorse one I think from design corse . I make sure I undo the nut every two or three months instead of every two or three years at tyre change time . Comes undune fairly easy.

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