Brutale 750 - rear wheel removal problems? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Brutale 750 - rear wheel removal problems?

My god that thing is tough to get off... Yes, I know its threaded "reverse", yep, the catch is also out and there's nothing broken off within the hub.

Yet, I can still lift the bike stands clear off the ground using a 3 foot breaker bar. Next step is to get the Mrs to sit on it while I attempt the same, but other than soaking it with some WD40, any other tips?

Also, thinking to myself a bit here, could the wheel bearing issues be related to difficulty getting the wheel off? I mean, by lashing it to the pegs as Ive seen suggested around the forum, surely thats going to apply some lateral twist when applying pressure?


Appreciate any help or suggestions
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 08:02 PM
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Forget the breaker bar, get an impact wrench, electric or air.
No Mrs required to sit on the bike and Your back will appreciate it.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by haupti View Post
Forget the breaker bar, get an impact wrench, electric or air.
No Mrs required to sit on the bike and Your back will appreciate it.
Do you think a cheapie Harbor Freight one will do the job, or will I need something more substantial?

(something like: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-68099.html )
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 08:50 PM
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I guess this machine will do the job.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 12:11 AM
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I tried using that torque wrench. Not enough torque.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 02:10 AM
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If you haven't got an air wrench/ rattle gun , Take your bike with the correct socket to your local car tire outlet abd ask the guys there to undo the nut for you using their rattle gun.

Re tighten to a reasonable level and take it home . Then it's easy as the stiction has been removed.

I use either a 4x torque converter ( thanks Carl for the tip ), or a Snap on rattle gun

Joe
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 05:43 AM
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I have my "Shock and Awe" 1 inch drive socket if you need it. That's what it took on my SPR first time I removed the nut. 3/4 inch impact guns just twisted off the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapters.

Let me know, I'll loan it to you for cost of postage. You'll have to go to the truck tire shop to use their 1" air gun.

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 07:07 AM
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I think that one of the problems we have here is a need for instant gratification. We know that improper nut maintenance cause galvanic corrosion and binding. That is brought about by not greasing the threaded section of the wheel nut when doing any removal/replacement operation. We know that ham-handed techs have over-torqued, reverse-torqued and otherwise screwed up what should be a simple operation.

Now, when faced with removal of a bound nut, people want it off NOW.

This leads to problems.

Even impact wrenches have their limitations.

We, as perpetrators of violence on our wheel nuts, can help ourselves by not being impatient. Using a quality penetrating oil, like Kroil, or a concoction of ATF and acetone...or whatever Noel recommends, to soak the threads over night is a major step in the right direction.

A tapered well fitting 55 mm socket is the next necessity. Attach that to a quality impact wrench and then let the wrench do its job. The "impact" part of impact wrench is your little helper.
Those tiny hammer blows in rapid succession over a period of time break the bond that is holding your nut in place. Let the hammer blows do the work. It may take some time. Eventually, the binding force will be overcome by the penetrating oil and the tiny hammer blows.

The nut will spin off easily.

Probably the most important thing you can do is to maintain that mechanical connection. Grease the threads with a high quality grease upon reassembly. Do it once a year.

Your nutz will thank me.

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APU View Post
I tried using that torque wrench. Not enough torque.
might just be a case of using the wrong expression but for those that don't know torque wrenches are for dong things up don't use them for undoing, very bad for them
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 08:22 AM
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Release oil ( Kroil ) ..Pneumatic wrench..with pref Aluminium socket so as not to mangle the appearance of the nut...Consider pouring some boiling water on the nut to heat it up..

As Chuck says ..use patience and everything at your disposal to give you the advantage.

It's one reason I like working on my own bikes..I don't have to deal with frozen on nuts or brake bleed nipples etc..They get serviced properly and the threads greased where required.

Good luck !

Joe
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