Drilling out screws - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Drilling out screws

As the title suggests i need to drill out a couple screws (unless a genius can advise otherwise) items in question are numbers 1x15 and 2x23

OEM Spare parts for MV Agusta motorcycles

the number 15 is the one on the little cubby hole/coin box as shown in number 17 if that makes sense.

Reason is the wellnuts/bush, number 22 800091022 BUSH, SCREW, M4X0,7 are rubber and a couple are just spinning so i am unable to remove the screws, the first one to spin was number 23 so i am unable to remove the side panel, on advice of a dealer i was advised to remove the cubby/coin box to gain access to the rubber bush and hold it with pliers to remove it, unfortunately one of the screws holding the cubby/coin box has the same problem which in turn prevents me from gaining access to the bush for the side panel.
I have sprayed with penetrating oil although i am unsure that will do any good.
Any help and advice greatly appreciated guys.

A very frustrated Bruce
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 06:13 PM
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Spraying with penetrating oil just made it worse Bruce. Obviously the screw where over-tightened or corrosion set in between the screws and nut. The easier way is usually to wedge a small screwdriver in underneath the head of the screw, then unscrew while trying to lift the screw out at the same time. This works for me most of the time.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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I've tried that Donsy, well on the screws that I can get underneath, dealer told me that they have had this problem on a few bikes that are used regular, not the best on a touring bike I have to admit but then these things are set to try us I suppose, it doesn't help that the screws are soft and a couple are in awkward hard to access positions.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donsy View Post
Spraying with penetrating oil just made it worse Bruce.
I agree with Dons, maybe try liquid lighter fluid, giving it a while to evaporate, to wash out any oily residue that is causing the rubber well-nut to rotate. However, if the female threaded (usually a brass insert) is corroded to the thread of the bolt then it's a tough one to crack. Anything you can do to add some friction between the rubber and the hole in the fairing might help; pulling upward on the nut (as suggested), or the panel itself (same effect), or a sideways twist, might help.

Once you've gotten it apart sparingly, so as not to contaminate the rubber, use some anti seize such as coppa slip on reassembly.

If the tiny bolts are chewed up stainless versions, along with the nylon washers used where these fixing are used on painted panels, can be bought off eBay for significantly less than OEM.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I figured the penetrating oil wouldn't do any good but I was all out of ideas before reverting to the drill. Tried lifting the panel to try and get some purchase on it but to no avail and I have got the coopa slip ready for the assembly. Good idea for the plastic washers I'll source some and stainless screws from fleabay in the meantime.
Thanks for you help guys

Bruce.... still frustrated.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 03:55 AM
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Trouble is I doubt if drilling would work as the bolt and well-nut would just spin once the drill bit starts to cut.

As a last resort the whole panel assembly is a somewhat reasonable 40, although I imagine that getting hold of one might present something of a long wait. If the rubber pocket was available as a separate part, which it doesn't appear to be, then cutting that might get you access to the rear of the panel and the well-nut.

I bought M4 (4.3mm hole diameter) nylon washers from this seller. And a combination of M4 8mm long and M4 16mm long socket-button stainless Allen headed bolts from here. Almost but not quite the same as OEM (you have to look damn close), does the job though.

Managed to drop and loose a couple, hazard or working outside on my patio, when stripping my fairing off. The inner front ones on the panel you're talking about are pretty hard to reach and very easily slip between fingers, falling inside the fairing. Never found them within so must have dropped out of the bottom and away...

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 12:23 PM
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You could try using a soldering iron to soften the rubber by applying the tip of the iron to the screw head and letting the heat transfer through the screw/threaded insert to heat the rubber. Use pliers to pull the screw/insert out so you can then hold the insert with pliers to keep it from turning.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:17 PM
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Drilling 4mm panel screws.....
protect the paint with clear tape.... now use a pair of diagonal cutters to go under the head of the screw
hold it tight, if possible just cut the head off....
otherwise drill it while holding it with the cutters.....

bolts NEVER BEAT ME!


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
Drilling 4mm panel screws.....
protect the paint with clear tape.... now use a pair of diagonal cutters to go under the head of the screw
hold it tight, if possible just cut the head off....
otherwise drill it while holding it with the cutters.....

bolts NEVER BEAT ME!
These are recessed into the plastic panel and I imagine are a right bitch if seized to the well-nut. A good pair of fine needle nose pliers might make it possible to hold the head whilst drilling. I inherited a pair of dentists pliers from my father (he wasn't a dentist) which would be my go-to tool for such an eventuality as this. They are like needle nose pliers but a/ with a right angle bend to the points, and b/ the points are angled inwards slightly.

I would hope that Bruce has this sorted by now.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:08 PM
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Bruce;
couple of different ways to skin this cat

start with a #2 center drill you need to go a little more than 1mm deep, then enlarge the hole up to 2.5mm in steps......
if it wants to spin on you make a deep center punch mark toward the edge of the head angled CCW, then use a scribe
in the punch mark to keep it from turning.... you'll need to go up to a 3mm drill to break through the threads
change the hook angle on the drills to 0 then they won't grab

alternate plan I have a Cleco 200 G die grinder 1/8" using a carbide burr @ 100,000rpm has a way of cutting screw
heads.... spray water so you don't melt the panel

try on the coin tray 1st ....you might be able to use pliers on the rubber part in the exterior panel


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