Need help for the confusing "Interruttore" board on my 150RS - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Need help for the confusing "Interruttore" board on my 150RS

Hello friends,

the last Nov. I have put my hands on a 150RS from the mid 60s. And after bringing it back home and star to dig in a bit, I realize that the bike īs electrics donīt work at all. I knew that the bike didīt start up when I bought it and decided to face this challenge from the first day. But for my own surprise, the cables are just wrongly placed on the "interruttore" board. Beside having the electric schematic next to me, I find it a bit confusing the whole cable work.

I am attaching a picture of how this looks like. Hope you guys can help me out.

On top of it, the rear bulb is missing and some other connections are gone.

In addition , the "Raddrozzatore", which is the regulator (I guess) looks quite different than the one on the schematic.

Thank you guys
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 12:29 PM
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Hi,
Can you post up the schematic? Even a photo of it might help.

Cheers

----------------------------------------
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, sorry, this is the schematic. Slowly I started to believe that it is a completely different light switch than the OEM one... btw what I have is a CEV S8840 board. Does the bike came with this board from the factory?

All this is driving me crazy
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DongXu View Post
Hi, sorry, this is the schematic. Slowly I started to believe that it is a completely different light switch than the OEM one... btw what I have is a CEV S8840 board. Does the bike came with this board from the factory?

All this is driving me crazy
For instance, the whole rectifier / regulator looks different. The schematic shows it would be 1 input (AC) cable from the alternator throught the junction A, and it 1 output (DC) back to the board. But in reality, there are 5 cables...
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 08:38 AM
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Dong-
I'm not familiar with the 150 model, but the schematic looks similar to other makes and models from the time.
The schematic shows what is often called an 'energy transfer' ignition system- it's powered directly from one coil on the alternator, the other coil probably powers the charging/lighting circuit.
Could you look at or send a photo of the alternator and the contact breaker(points) assembly?
The schematic shows an alternator output directly to the ignition coil- thats all you need to get a spark. The alternator 'A' is probably just powering the charging/lighting circuits- you probably don't need anything on that circuit board to get the bike running.
If it is an energy transfer system, the alternator needs to be phased correctly to the crankshaft to get a good spark- if someone took the alternator off and put it back on carelessly the pulse of current being sent to the coil may be at the wrong point on the AC curve.
A picture of the alternator/points assembly will help to identify what you have.
Don't get discouraged- it's a simple electrical system.
Rick
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 09:14 AM
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I found some photos of a similar MV alternator rotor/stator.
In case you're new to this, the rotor is the aluminum part that has magnets embedded in it- it's attached to the crankshaft and rotates around the stator- the stationary part with the coils and points that's attached to the crankcase. The rotor will make it hard to see the stator- if you look through the openings in the rotor you should be able to see the coils and the contact breakers(points).
If you have parts like this, you have the energy transfer ignition.
Rick
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chip View Post
I found some photos of a similar MV alternator rotor/stator.
In case you're new to this, the rotor is the aluminum part that has magnets embedded in it- it's attached to the crankshaft and rotates around the stator- the stationary part with the coils and points that's attached to the crankcase. The rotor will make it hard to see the stator- if you look through the openings in the rotor you should be able to see the coils and the contact breakers(points).
If you have parts like this, you have the energy transfer ignition.
Rick
Hey Rick, thanks for your words and advises! The alternator does look like the one on the picture. I have checked with the multimeter that the alternator generates AC voltage correctly. This should be enought, like you said, to fire the spark. Also the contact breaker workes fine at the same degree. I still need to check the ignition timing from the rotor, but I guess no one placed it carelessly, unsyncronizing the timing.

The interruttore board is rather for the whole lighting system like you suggested. And after a bit of research, I have seen other bikes with similar wiring on this same board. Althought, some of the cables are wrongly connected in my case. I got a set of new cables for this bike. I will try that out and let you guys know.

This particular bike has been on exposition purpose for the last 20 years. Obviously the previous owner never started it up in 20 years. At least he drained the oil out and the whole crankcase and cylinder are pretty clean and in good shape.

I will continue working on it. It should be easy tho, but it is taking longer than I expected.
By the way, do you guys know any substitute for the Selenium Rectifier/Regulator? The one that came with the bike seems expired... (yeah... didnīt know this thing expires...)

Regards,
Dong
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 08:50 AM
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Dong-
That selenium rectifier(not a regulator) shouldn't be hard to replace. Honda used them well into the 1970s- thousands of them in junk yards. But, it may be easier and better to replace it with silicon device. A selenium rectifier is just a diode made with selenium- even when Honda was still using them almost everyone else had switched to silicon- if you do a Google search for 'Honda selenium rectifier replacement' you'll find lots of forum discussions on replacing these rectifiers with an inexpensive silicon diode bridge.
Rick
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Dong-
That selenium rectifier(not a regulator) shouldn't be hard to replace. Honda used them well into the 1970s- thousands of them in junk yards. But, it may be easier and better to replace it with silicon device. A selenium rectifier is just a diode made with selenium- even when Honda was still using them almost everyone else had switched to silicon- if you do a Google search for 'Honda selenium rectifier replacement' you'll find lots of forum discussions on replacing these rectifiers with an inexpensive silicon diode bridge.
Rick
Hey Rick, Thanks again for such nice information. I just checked this rectifier replacing thing, it should be easy. I believe these bikes donīt have regulator yet. I have only worked on a 80īs bmw, and the system is quite different. My old vespa seems much more similar to this MV, but this one has not battery at all.

I checked the original wiring of the "Interruttore", the wiring was not completely correct. I will make some changes to the correct wiring, and upload it to this thread later. So anyone who might needs it in the future can have this wiring thing correct.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 11:47 AM
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Hi DonXu,

I've got the same problem. An electrical chaos and quitte a difference between the scheme the drawing) and the real thing. My 'interrutore' is similar to the one you showed above. Also the wiring (colours) is exact the same.
Have you finished the job and could you show me a proper electrical scheme how to connect those wires to the several components?
I'd be gratefull.

greetz Jan
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