Ipotesi wheel bearings - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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Ipotesi wheel bearings

Hi Everyone!

My MV 350s is slowly continuing, however I have hit a snag... The front wheelbearings are shot, so it will have to be replaced. The problem is that they won't come out. Anyone having removed the wheelbearing themselves? The wheel has been taken to a motorcycle workshop, but they also didn't know what to do with it. Many thanks in advance.
One small question remaining, is there a Dutch ipotesi owner who got his/her mv through the RDW inspection? I 'm curious to know what they are looking for on the bike, in order for me to get a licence plate.

Many, many thanks!

Wouter
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 09:32 AM
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Have you tried packing the bearing in dri-ice and gently heating the wheel with a heat gun at the bearing carrier?

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Not yet tried, good idea! I will try! Is'nt there a chance of the wheel getting damaged? I will try if it doesn't hurt the wheel, for I wouldn't know where to find a spare wheel if it all goes wrong.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-21-2015, 03:24 AM
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It seems like bearings fitted with loctite cement due to housing wear.
Pieces glued with hard Loctite cement should be warmed to above 100░ C to be removed, there are extra hard cements that are supposed not to be removed.

You can weld a threaded rod to the inner race of the bearing, and use it as extractor after warming to 150░ the bearing to destroy the cement

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2015, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTW36 View Post
It seems like bearings fitted with loctite cement due to housing wear.
Pieces glued with hard Loctite cement should be warmed to above 100░ C to be removed, there are extra hard cements that are supposed not to be removed.

You can weld a threaded rod to the inner race of the bearing, and use it as extractor after warming to 150░ the bearing to destroy the cement

It is highly likely then that Loctite 641 has been used. This is specially designed as a bearing retaining compound. It is not superglue as such.

So google this product to see how to soften it...As I read it is a heat to 250deg C

good luck .

joe

Last edited by gotojoe; 09-23-2015 at 04:34 AM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-23-2015, 07:57 PM
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If your workshop doesn't have an idea i would humbly suggest you take it somewhere else.

1st though are the wheels magnesium alloy? I would be getting them tested by by a company that does aircraft component testing, I have a 80's Ducati and most of the race wheels available at the time are in
pretty bad condition now and shouldn't be used.

If you're heating it do it gently and slowly in an oven if possible, google bearing extractor there are tools meant to grip the inner race and then use a slide hammer to remove.

As an extreme last resort if the bearing has disintegrated and the outer race is still stuck in the hub you can run a bead of weld on the inside of the race, as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the
race and it should drop out, used to do this to get valve seats out of heads, must be done by a competent welder.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baba Zanetti View Post
If your workshop doesn't have an idea i would humbly suggest you take it somewhere else.

1st though are the wheels magnesium alloy? I would be getting them tested by by a company that does aircraft component testing, I have a 80's Ducati and most of the race wheels available at the time are in
pretty bad condition now and shouldn't be used.

If you're heating it do it gently and slowly in an oven if possible, google bearing extractor there are tools meant to grip the inner race and then use a slide hammer to remove.

As an extreme last resort if the bearing has disintegrated and the outer race is still stuck in the hub you can run a bead of weld on the inside of the race, as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the
race and it should drop out, used to do this to get valve seats out of heads, must be done by a competent welder.

Yes that weld method works a treat..Used it many times to get head races out where you cant get at the lip with a slide hammer.

very quick and very easy

joe
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everybody!

Now I can push on, my workshop teacher very kindly offered me to help with some of the solutions. (I'm studying mechanical engineering). I also suddenly have a very advanced workshop at my disposal.

One question remaining, I want to order the rear brake calliper from magni, is it compatible with the old (scarab) brake hose and master cylinder?

Wouter
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