Heated Grips Help - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Heated Grips Help

Hi guys.
Fitting a set of heated grips. Ideally I want to wire the live (+) into a wire that is live only when the ignition is on, rather than taking it straight from the battery. Anyone know which wire I can connect into, without messing up the wiring loom or buggering up the temperamental Italian electrics?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 05:52 AM
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Flushman, I'd go this way: http://www.aerostich.com/auxiliary-p...sed-panel.html

The AP-2 version has five "Powered when key is on" fused outlets and three "Powered when key is off" outlets. The relay and aux wire is essential and you pull the initiating power for the tail light live wire. A very nice unit that fits neatly under your seat.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 09:48 AM
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On my MY2010 1090, I simply located the tail light circuit under the pillion seat and installed a small SPST relay. Upon powering up the bike, the relay closes, taking fuse protected power from the battery and powering the SPDT switch for the heated grips. The tiny current draw of the relay has not been noticed by the bike's on board electronics.

The control switch for the grips was placed in the left hand combination switch assembly after removing the CRC branded cover over the unused on/off lighting switch recess.

Ciao,
Dick
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 09:17 AM
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I ran a radar detector on mine and just tapped into one of the wires going into the tach display (under the front shield). You can grab one of the pinch connectors at any electrical supplier so you don't have to splice, just clamp it to the wire and the small metal teeth in the connector pierce the wire jacket. That way if you remove you can just throw a piece of electric tape over the wire with no damage.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 10:57 AM
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Run them to your BMW?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-24-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
Flushman, I'd go this way: http://www.aerostich.com/auxiliary-p...sed-panel.html

The AP-2 version has five "Powered when key is on" fused outlets and three "Powered when key is off" outlets. The relay and aux wire is essential and you pull the initiating power for the tail light live wire. A very nice unit that fits neatly under your seat.

Attachment 53492
+1 I had put one on my B1078 and ran the Gerbings, the garage opener and the gear indicator.

B750 and B1078 RR both gone now.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 01:33 PM
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grips

Quote:
Originally Posted by racasey View Post
On my MY2010 1090, I simply located the tail light circuit under the pillion seat and installed a small SPST relay. Upon powering up the bike, the relay closes, taking fuse protected power from the battery and powering the SPDT switch for the heated grips. The tiny current draw of the relay has not been noticed by the bike's on board electronics.

The control switch for the grips was placed in the left hand combination switch assembly after removing the CRC branded cover over the unused on/off lighting switch recess.

Ciao,
Dick

Hi there, I think this idea is brilliant and just what I need on my bike which is the same model as yours Dick, The thing that was holding me back was where to put the switch without spoiling the clean look of the handle bar layout,

Would like to know what type or which switch you used after removing the cover, you don't have pictures I don't suppose do you.

Thank you, Dave.

Last edited by Roey; 12-25-2011 at 02:54 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Cheers guys. Liking the relay idea, more info on the switch if poss.
Ta
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 06:37 PM
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Hi Roey, I'd be pleased to post some photos, but I'm travelling for about a month and the Brutale is at home and safely tucked away.

To mount the switch, I machined an aluminum housing to hold a SPDT toggle switch I bought from Newark Electronics. They are an excellent on-line supplier. I do everything the hard way, and while the results with my machined alloy housing look like a factory part, I suspect I have three or four hours in the machining.

An easier method, but not as tidy, would be to remove the CRC "blank off" plate and use this as the mounting plate for a sub miniature SPDT toggle switch. Or perhaps file a piece of alloy plate to fit where the blank off plate went, and then drill your plate for your switch.

I used the Symtec brand heated grip kit. This comprises a dual circuit adhesive backed ribbon cable heat strip. I have used this vendor for almost ten years and never suffered a component failure.

Your challenge in providing a tidy installation will be finding a small toggle switch and a means of locating the switch in the left side OEM combo switch assy.

I will gladly post a photo upon return from my travels.

Ciao,
Dick

Ps. I am strongly of the opinion that intermittent electrical faults are one of the most annoying problems one ever encounters and frequently the major source of breakdowns that leave folks stranded on the road.

Using crimp-on electrical terminals, or those damnable Scotch-Lok wire splices should be avoided at all costs. Sooner or later, vibration or corrosion will cause failure in the connection. Take the time to make clean, bright, soldered connections with tidy and well thought out insulation. Five minutes waiting for a soldering iron to heat up beats the two hours waiting for a tow truck.

Quality products like self amalgamating silicone tape, liquid insulation products, or heat shrink tubing are strongly encouraged. If black vinyl tape is your only tool, buy a roll of Scotch "33" and leave the 6 rolls for a dollar stuff alone.

Usual disclaimer. I have no business interests concerning Scotch, Symtec, Newark Electonics, simply hate walking home.

Last edited by racasey; 12-25-2011 at 08:40 PM.
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