New bike...couple questions -
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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New bike...couple questions

Hi all. Sorry long post.
It all started when I stopped to test ride the streetfighter and the Brutale last thursday. I liked the SF but really was blown away by the Brutale. Anyway ....long story short. I picked up a 1090rr today. Got home and got a short ride in. Couple things some of you might be able to help me with. There are some rubber caps that go over the mirror bolts....they don't seem to stay in place very well. I found one on the garage floor. Anyone else loosing these?
Also had a hard time starting it a couple times. Giving it just a slight bit of throttle seemed to get it going but otherwise it would just cough and spit for ~10 seconds and die. It was around 97 deg F today so maybe that was part of the problem???
One thing I'm going to need to get used to is the slipper clutch. Never had one I'm assuming there's no need to match revs on downshifts ...correct? Anything else I should be doing differently with shifting? The upshifts seem a little different than what I'm used to as well but I started to get better towards the end of the ride. Speaking of the ride...I'm still in awe of this bike. Now the tough part is going to be keeping it below 6K for another 575 miles!

here's a quick shot. I was told there are only about 15 of this color in the states which is kinda cool. I know the reflectors need to go!

Last edited by slyfox; 09-02-2010 at 05:19 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:12 PM
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If I choke mine it starts right up, if I don't, a quick throttle twist works. I do it sometime accidently as well as I get in a habit from doing it when starting my v-star. I don't see why it would be a big deal as long as it runs and idles well.

Adding power makes you faster on the straights, while subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere - Colin Chapman

2004 Brutale 750S
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 10:48 AM
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The "choke" is actually a fast idle...twists the throttle just that tiny little bit required.

I used to be I just dream about it.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 01:50 PM
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New bike, a few answers

Hello SlyFox: Your experience with the mirrors mimics mine. I noticed the position of the caps when my 1090 was delivered in February. I applied three fixes, all of which take but a few minutes.

Rubber caps. The mirror stalks are spring mounted to provide some protection should one bump into the bike when parked.
1. If you run the M8 nut compressing the spring down a few more turns, the cap will fit properly. You will however loose the "break-away" feature. Small loss in my opinion.

2. If you decide you like this feature, mount a 3/8 inch diameter wood dowel in your drill press, wrap the dowel with some 120 grit sand paper and relieve the inside of the rubber cap till it fits as intended. I have done this on my bike and on one occasion lost a cap after a ride. So now I have relieved the caps AND used some Rubber Cement to hold the caps in. Rubber Cement, like that used for gluing paper has a gentle grip and the cap can be removed if required.

3. On my bike, if run at 5,000 - 5,500 RPM for a minute or so, the right side mirror glass would creep out of alignment. The left mirror never had this tendency. After a dozen or so rides and constant fiddeling with the alignment, I applied a permanent fix. Remove the glass by pressing with thump pressure at 6 O'clock on the glass. Look down into the assembly and note the ball/socket arrangement. The socket is on the mirror. Using a 3/8 inch wide flat blade screw driver, I separated the ball and socket. After wetting the socket with a few drops of water, I lightly dusted the socket with some very find sand. Once back together, the water evaporates, the sand remains & provides e'nuff friction to hold the alignment. In 3,000 miles at all speeds and conditions, the alignment has held, and upon a change in riding position or riders, the mirror alignment can be altered.

Starting. This bike has a stepper motor to control the idle speed and mixture. Press and release the starter button and the onboard computer will keep the starter relay engaged until the bke is running. On my bike, the bike will generally start in a couple of revolutions by the starter (under 1/2 second) and if the bike sits for a week or three, may take 1 1/2 seconds. All hands off. I never need to give any throttle or use the "fast idle" lever. Ambient temps for this starting condition range from 50F to 100F. I'd recommend you put 600 miles on the bike and have the dealer look at the starting mixture.

Slipper Clutch. This feature startled me for a long while. I come from the old school and the when the damned clutch lever would telegraph that little "tick", I'd think one of the wires in my mechanical clutch just snapped. Over time you will forget it. As to negating the importance in matching RPM to wheel speeds, I believe you are "Not Correct".

Smoothness and control is what good riding is all about. The intent of the slipper clutch is to mechanically correct for the mis-match of RPM and wheel speed when down shifting and well leaned over in a turn. Properly executed down shifts provide great predictability in the amount of engine braking the rider can expect. Grossly mis-matching will result in wheel skip or slipper clutch disengagement, and the bike will behave slightly slightly different than the average rider will expect. High performance riding really begs for high predictability.

Obviously differing points of view will prevail, but for this rider, I prefer to concentrate on smoothness and great predictability. As my father taught me when learning to drive, "if you a a very good driver, a blind passenger will not be able to tell if you are accelerating or braking." Anyone who has either attended Reg Pridmore's CLASS riding school or taken a lap around the course with Jason Pridmore at the controls knows exactly of what I speak. Ain't many folks faster than Jason or his father.

The pictures you posted show a beautiful bike. Congrats!


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info! I tried some rental grip glue on those rubber caps ...we'll see if that works. Considering all the nicely fitted parts on the bike those caps are really piss poor. I remember the 990 I test rode didn't have any ...go figure. And yes I have the exact same thing going on with the mirrors...even the same side. I'll give the sand a try this weekend. I went through a tank today and beside it flat out shut down twice on me its was good even in the 100F weather here. It started right up and then about 5 minutes later just shutdown while I was leaving the parking lot. I'm just going to continue riding it and see if it gets better/goes away. The clutch is a work in progress just getting used to it. Racasey you are right about matching the revs. I messed around some today and its much less noticeable when matching the revs. Just takes some getting used to when coming off a superduke. It comes up in the revs much quicker! I also need to get to adjusting the suspension as I thinks its a little to soft all over right now. Thanks again.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 08:52 PM
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When my 1090rr was new it would stall quite a bit like u described, especially when decelerating to a stop. It went away after the bike was broken in and very rarely ever stalls now. Surges a tad when warming up but quickly rights itself. 3,000kms and no issues at all.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 05:15 PM
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Congrats on the bike chief.

I'm looking forward to getting mine when I get back home in 3 weeks, I'll post up when I check out the caps and the fueling at idle and start up and see if it's a common problem with the new 1090's
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