Rear wheel help. - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Rear wheel help.

Hi,ive got the brutale 910R ,that i went and droped the other day like a complete twat ! lot of damage saved by the R&G protectors,some how my rear hugger got caught up and bent under itself,and snapped it ( bloody carbon one as well ).What i wanted to ask is when you take off the rear wheel ,does it all take place on the exhaust side (i know the nut is a left hand thread ) and do i have to take off the silencers or does the wheel come off with them still on,any one that has one of these go and buy those protectors,brilliant nearly keeps the bike off the ground completely...........any info helpfull and thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:00 PM
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i have a 910s and I cannot get the wheel off without removing the exhaust.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:43 PM
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Yes, exhaust needs to go. I also take off right rear set, since it is easier to pull out the cans. Obviously, to pull off the cans, you need to remove the mounting bracket and the passenger rearset that is bolted to that bracket.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,i think the wheel nut should be ok to undo,ive heard some horror storys on here about how tight they are,but as i said ive had a carbon hugger fitted when i got it ,so the wheel has been off once .
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 04:56 PM
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Heno,
I think the 'horrors' relate to when someone uses the wrong socket and tortion control wrench to remove and replace - if the individual has the correct tools and know's what they doing....all should be well.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 05:34 PM
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You do not need to remove the exhaust. Take off the right foot peg's heel guard (prevent damage from edge of lower muffler heat shield).
Remove the bolts in the lower muffler to the plate that joins the top and bottom cans, loosen the bolts on the plate for top muffler.
Now the lower muffler will pivot out of the way (the joint to the mid-pipe is designed for this). The top muffler stays in place.

Easy to do with the right tools (8mm ratcheting wrench or 1/4 inch drive ratchet and 8mm wobble socket with extension)

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 07:11 AM
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Interesting how we differently approach to the wheel removal. Yes I know, the official MV way is to just remove lower can, the way you described it Ed.

But I find it PITA job to do, since that plate is cramped between wheel and cans. I takes me way less than 10 min to remove both cans and both right side rearsets.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 08:47 AM
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Miha.... you need better tools.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again,i got the special socket,bought it when i got the bike,ive allso got Snap On tools, i mend trucks for a job, i hate to drop a bike,i dont want this one now its scuffed lol.but as i said very impressed with those protectors,hate to think what would have happend if they were not fitted.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heno42666 View Post
I mend trucks for a job,
1/4 inch drive 8mm wobble socket is the ticket for the exhaust joining plate bolts....does a "Truck Mender" have anything that small????

By the way, I use anti-seize on the bolt threads when i put them back in to the mufflers. Also a good idea on the slip fit of the muffler to the mid pipe, if you take the cans off.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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