Arrow thunder question. - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow thunder question.

Hey there,

We have been trying a couple of exhausts on the 910R... I had the mid-pipe already and race ECU, but the standard cans (bought the bike second hand like this). The opportunity came up via @genforce to try out the race cans and an Arrow thunder. Tried the MV Corse race cans and they are freaken wicked. The sound is much more 'raspy' and they sound really cool on the bike.

Today we put the arrow thunder on. Oh. My. GOD. it is freaken loud with the DB killer out! Took it for a little squirt and man it is crazy thing to ride. The noise it makes is unbelieveable! You can feel the cops being rang.

So i have the DB killer in now and took for a 45min squirt round the place.... but getting into some traffic and slowing down the heat gets up to 86-90 C and it starts missing at low revs -r unning rough and mis-firing. Open it up and it runs fine... am going to let it cool down and see if that makes a difference...

OK.. Now the questions:

What could be causing this? (does it need tuning or a different ECU with the arrow for instance?)

EDIT: Acually i have another question now too... it seems to stick out alot compared to the photos i have seen, and it was a bit of a mission to fit right. So in thnking about it - i think the headers are not correct for the for the arrow with the mid pipe. Can someone take a look at the attached photo and comment?

My exhaust is.. 4 into 4 (headers), then 2 x 2 into 1 separate parts, then a 2 into 1 and back into 2, then the standard cans. See the of the mid pipe part... Have I got a version of the exhaust that doesn’t work with the arrow correctly?

Cheers

Simon
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Cheers, Simon


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Last edited by greminn; 12-20-2009 at 07:55 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 07:59 PM
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I don't have a Brutale so I can't help you with the second question but any bike that has significant intake or exhaust mods (and that seems to be the case here) will require a mapping solution. You will be running leaner than stock, particularly when you don't have the db killer installed.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The_castle View Post
I don't have a Brutale so I can't help you with the second question but any bike that has significant intake or exhaust mods (and that seems to be the case here) will require a mapping solution. You will be running leaner than stock, particularly when you don't have the db killer installed.
Ahh.. OK. But i would have thought it would run like that from the start? Or is it that its getting hotter and then the issue is happening... I guess the other thing is: Is it alright to acually run it?

Cheers, Simon


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Last edited by greminn; 12-20-2009 at 08:23 PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well... I put the mv corse cans back on an took it for a good run (30-50kms or so), but it's still running like a bag of crap under 5000 rpm... Running really rough and back firng a bit. Any ideas on this one?

Cheers, Simon


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 11:14 PM
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Check for a leak before the muffler, it could be something else but if the exhaust had too little back pressure you may get this. But not an expert.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 12:04 AM
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There are specific maps for the arrow thunder can through the PC3. So, I can only assume that yes, indeed, you'll need to do some tuning to get that fixed.

Just wait 'til the bigger nerds get on about this, but with a bit of searching, you should be able to find a longer thread in concerns to your tuning somewhere in here.

However, and this is something I've never noticed, was how far out the can sticks. That's a good question. How's the clearance on the other side of the can, next to the wheel? Is it close?

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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There are specific maps for the arrow thunder can through the PC3. So, I can only assume that yes, indeed, you'll need to do some tuning to get that fixed.

Just wait 'til the bigger nerds get on about this, but with a bit of searching, you should be able to find a longer thread in concerns to your tuning somewhere in here.
OK. So we disconnected the battery to let the computer re-set itself. Connected back up again and it was still running rough under 4-5k rpm. So we started to check the plugs and found we didnt have the right socket... sprayed some WD40 on something, decided to have a bourbon. Start it up an hour later, no issues. Ride it home. No issues. Fucken weird.


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However, and this is something I've never noticed, was how far out the can sticks. That's a good question. How's the clearance on the other side of the can, next to the wheel? Is it close?
Clearence? Very very close. Under 10mm to the swingarm. 15mm to the edge of the tyre. But that was as close as it got.. with weight etc on it... it opened up.

Cheers, Simon


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 06:43 AM
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we have the same bike, but our exhaust is different. mine is the 4-2 headers and then 2-1 with the arrows mid-pipe, but due to the newer mid-pipe that is 1 1/2" longer to accomodate the O2 sensor bung for the Euro 3 system, my can sticks out very far as well. I am having a friend of mine who has a shop modify the mid-pipe so that it is shorter yet retains the O2 sensor. I'll just have it rotated so that it can be accessed when it is shortened. I"ll post picture of it when done.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 07:34 AM
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You have the race headers which are longer. That's why the can sticks out the back further. If you have a recent midpipe, one with the bung for the o2 sensor, it will make it longer still.

You need the stock headers, and either an early mid pipe or a shortened mid pipe to get the more familiar look.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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You have the race headers which are longer. That's why the can sticks out the back further. If you have a recent midpipe, one with the bung for the o2 sensor, it will make it longer still.

You need the stock headers, and either an early mid pipe or a shortened mid pipe to get the more familiar look.
Ah - ok! If I put the standard headers on with the arrow, then would I need the standard ECU as well?

Could the combination of race headers, race ECU and arrow slipon/arrow midpipe cause it to run rough after a good run?

The wired thing is that it ran fine for a while with this combination... Then all of a sudden ran rough under 4-5k rpm. I kind of think it might be unrelated.

Cheers, Simon


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