Rear ride height & further adjustments..... - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Rear ride height & further adjustments.....

I have raised the rear ride height about 7mm. It's definately quickened the steering up but i seem to have lost some of the feel from the front end. It doesn't feel as planted as normal. I am no expert on suspension but i have a little idea of what goes on where, and that changing the rear ride height will change what goes on at the front.

What adjustments should i be looking to make at the front to get feel back to what it was, any ideas?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 09:41 AM
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I would check the sag, front and rear. Altering the ride hight will change the weight distribtion and may have put your sag out of the desired range. check the "suspension" setting here: http://www.onthethrottle.com/v2/
Hope that helps, Michael
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 10:02 AM
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You have raised it quite a lot .Normally raising or lowering the back or the front is for race purpose only.Even a small change make a big difference for handling.You should start with the "clicks" ..not one click but 3-4 clicks so you notice what it does to your bike handling.
I think that your 7 mm make your bike too quick in corners (overdrive) and you loose the front control..
You could set it back and start with the clicks ....imo the brut turns in factory settings like a dream and needs only to adjust for "comfort" or quick drive with adjusting the shockabsorbers.
What ever you do have fun and safe riding

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 11:08 AM
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The first thing you've got to ask is what is it you're trying to *fix*?

So many magazines flat out recommend riders raise the rear or lower the front for "better handling". ROFLMAO

The magazines don't know what YOU weigh, how you ride or what your preferences are. They don't know what springs have ACTUALLY been installed in YOUR forks or rear shock - and YOU might not know for sure, either, until you check. You might be amazed to find how many bikes are set up for ONE rider weight in the front and ANOTHER at the rear.

Suspension components are all related. By raising the rear - or lowering the front - you've effectively changed the spring rates in your bike at BOTH ENDS. Were your front springs too soft to begin with? Don't know? You've added to the load they carry already. Is that what you really wanted to do? Is your rear spring too stiff? You've reduced its load. Is that what you really wanted to do?

So first of all, return the bike to the stock setup, check the sag and adjust it to the typical/recommended settings. If that's not attainable, get the proper springs for your weight. That alone should make a big difference. Next, go through your valving to make sure the moving bike settles correctly under bumps and braking, and returns to proper attitude. Check same things under acceleration. Better rear shock may make a huge difference.

Again, what are you trying to do? Why? What is the best sequence of actions to take to achieve your intended results?

Rant off. HTH. YMMV. Individual results results may vary... Offer not valid in Sectors "R" or "Q".

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmvee
So many magazines flat out recommend riders raise the rear or lower the front for "better handling". ROFLMAO
I'm no suspension expert by far but I use to ticker with my preload and ride height to get my MV to turn quicker into corners - and it did turn it quicker. But, it wasn't until I went to a suspension clinic that I learned my changes actually made the bike handle worse. A too high rear end or too low front end will make the inital turn in very quick (yes, it feels good), but compromises how the bike handles in mid-turn and accelerating out of the turn.

But one question I still have, how do you determine the optimal ride height (both front and rear) and I dont mean preload.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 12:08 PM
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But one question I still have, how do you determine the optimal ride height (both front and rear) and I dont mean preload.[/QUOTE]

It is determined by the factory for normal use.The settings are a compromise for everyday use.
The ride height is to adjust for different circuits...normally very curve track you can rise the back and very fast you can make it more stable by lowering it...
For every track you have your best settings by try and cry system...

For daily use prefere not touching the heights because of that you may find you in different situation that you are use to....

Ofcourse if you know what you are doing no need to read this.....

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan Gibbs

But one question I still have, how do you determine the optimal ride height (both front and rear) and I dont mean preload.
LOL. Great question. Wish I knew... A lot of factory tuners struggle with that. No kidding. There is the factory determined "optimum" and then the optimum for each rider at each course, in each turn, over each bump, at different speeds... Higher CG increases the effects of suspension movement fore-and-aft. Not always bad... You want some weight transfer to aid braking and acceleration... Not so much it's unstable... Higher CG can also make the bike easier to turn at speed - bike wants to "fall in" easier for the rider... to a point... Aprilia RAISED the height of the motor in the frame on the RSV a few years back to achieve just such a result... what's good at one speed may not work when the going gets going... lower the front (raise the rear) and it tracks better... but go fast or go really fast then you get all sorts of push or unsteadiness...

Change one thing it changes something else.. or changes more than one hing... All voodoo to me. I just try and keep it simple, start with the basics. Just try and get the bike to act NORMAL for the rider's height and weight and go from there...

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emmvee
LOL. Great question. Wish I knew... A lot of factory tuners struggle with that. No kidding. There is the factory determined "optimum" and then the optimum for each rider at each course, in each turn, over each bump, at different speeds... Higher CG increases the effects of suspension movement fore-and-aft. Not always bad... You want some weight transfer to aid braking and acceleration... Not so much it's unstable... Higher CG can also make the bike easier to turn at speed - bike wants to "fall in" easier for the rider... to a point... Aprilia RAISED the height of the motor in the frame on the RSV a few years back to achieve just such a result... what's good at one speed may not work when the going gets going... lower the front (raise the rear) and it tracks better... but go fast or go really fast then you get all sorts of push or unsteadiness...

Change one thing it changes something else.. or changes more than one hing... All voodoo to me. I just try and keep it simple, start with the basics. Just try and get the bike to act NORMAL for the rider's height and weight and go from there...

+1.
Weight transfer, that is the key. BTW only the rear height is to adjust.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice everyone. What i wanted to do was change the speed at which the bike turned in. Due to the weather i haven't really had a chance to go for a spirited ride to see the effects of mid corner stability etc.

I do like the feel of what i've done, it seems to have pitched more weight forward so i guess i'll have to wait for some nice weather to make any further adjustments to the suspension.
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