Grinding noise in drive train - Page 3 - MVAgusta.net
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post #21 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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A couple of years ago I read, it seemed most of the hub threads and was impressed with the start of Mitch’s Hub. I thought the hub issues were resolved and by default waited after the recommended 12k maintenance, although, I did replace the cush drives last year, even though there was little wear.

What caused this to happen? The sprocket nut, which was suggested might be loose, if anything, was overtightened at my dealer. I had to use Kroil, a breaker bar, wheel strap, brake strap and my wife sitting on top to get if off. Her sitting on my bike makes me smile 😀. Some shops over torque, so I rarely let anyone work on my bike unless it’s a large warranty project.

The sprocket did show some wobble of about 4-5mm, I’m guessing. This looks nasty. My cush drives look cut but I think I got it off before it scraped the hub flange. I’m a hub believer now. Thoughts?
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post #22 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:55 AM
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Read these:

https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/129-m...ing-video.html

https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/129-m...t-rubbing.html

https://www.mvagusta.net/forum/129-m...-aluminum.html
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post #23 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I read about three hours of threads and thanks for the links. It seems like all of the expert research on this issue, which I am thoroughly impressed, concludes that either the nut was over tightened, maybe #31 aluminum spacer was compressed, or the stack is wrong.
I called my shop and he’s not aware of MV hub issues. I don’t want to risk this happening again, so I’m contacting Mitch for his hub.

Thanks for tolerating this redundant thread. It started with grinding and went to well known problem.

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post #24 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys409 View Post
A couple of years ago I read, it seemed most of the hub threads and was impressed with the start of Mitch’s Hub. I thought the hub issues were resolved and by default waited after the recommended 12k maintenance, although, I did replace the cush drives last year, even though there was little wear.

What caused this to happen? The sprocket nut, which was suggested might be loose, if anything, was overtightened at my dealer. I had to use Kroil, a breaker bar, wheel strap, brake strap and my wife sitting on top to get if off. Her sitting on my bike makes me smile 😀. Some shops over torque, so I rarely let anyone work on my bike unless it’s a large warranty project.

The sprocket did show some wobble of about 4-5mm, I’m guessing. This looks nasty. My cush drives look cut but I think I got it off before it scraped the hub flange. I’m a hub believer now. Thoughts?
The cause is not the hub. It's the cush drive system. Refer the video here :
The cush drives rubber wear, and once a certain point is reached, the sprocket carrier get to move non axially, which provokes hub damage. Basically, on a bike supposed to have 15k km range between maintenance, it's bad: my dealer told me they change them every time they change rear tires on bikes to try to prevent damage, but even that is not necessarily enough.

Basically, there is a design issue, they went back to oild gen cush drive system calling it "NEW" because it doesn't fail.

By the way, the whole playlist (here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...rb6IYm_OKt_-2K) is to be watched, as it indicates:
- what was improved on Euro 4 models,
- what can be improved on Euro 3 models as updates.

Hope it helps.
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Last edited by MarcSilverTriple; 04-30-2019 at 12:25 PM.
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post #25 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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I would like to have the Euro 4 design on my bike, but I thought the problem was the spacing between the sprocket housing and the hub, possibly because of heat, compression of aluminum or too much torque on the sprocket nut. I know the hub is not the problem, but Mitchs hub has a spacer that apparently solves the space issue. I could replace the cush drives again, like I did months ago, but I do not want my bike to be down again or to scrub.

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post #26 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys409 View Post
I would like to have the Euro 4 design on my bike, but I thought the problem was the spacing between the sprocket housing and the hub, possibly because of heat, compression of aluminum or too much torque on the sprocket nut. I know the hub is not the problem, but Mitchs hub has a spacer that apparently solves the space issue. I could replace the cush drives again, like I did months ago, but I do not want my bike to be down again or to scrub.
I did question myself about this, and decided to go for the safer route, with an after market sprocket carrier from BDS. I do not have the issue yet, but 2500 km after the previous change, the sprocket carrier is gaining move slowly already. I don't want to risk the hub, so moving on to other solution. That being said, with the video, and the issue on the bike, I would try to claim for warranty: it looks like a design issue. Normal wear should at least meet the planned ranges of the maintenance.
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post #27 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys409 View Post
I would like to have the Euro 4 design on my bike, but I thought the problem was the spacing between the sprocket housing and the hub, possibly because of heat, compression of aluminum or too much torque on the sprocket nut. I know the hub is not the problem, but Mitchs hub has a spacer that apparently solves the space issue. I could replace the cush drives again, like I did months ago, but I do not want my bike to be down again or to scrub.
The movement in the rubbers causes wear on the back of the sprocket carrier from the top hat spacer, reducing the gap between the hub and carrier.

I'm in the process of acquiring BDS carrier as mentioned in a different thread, similar to the euro 4 ones. As I'm now on carrier #3, hopefully solving the issue long term
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post #28 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:14 PM
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Well, if I hear what Brian is saying correctly, as the cush drives wear it allows for some radial play to develop. That radial play is in essence a back-and-forth twisting motion that could...and apparently does...lead to loosening of the drive-side nut. That would exacerbate wear as it would allow more radial movement and induce some axial movement which is just going to compound as time passes.

The whole shebang ends up in a spiral to destruction.

I don't know where the wear would be shown, but were it me, I'd probably replace the hub and get a redesigned cush drive...
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post #29 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
I don't know where the wear would be shown, but were it me, I'd probably replace the hub and get a redesigned cush drive...
The way the rubber are designed is part of the problem. The slot to insert the flange is not centered, and with the torque, it moves beyond an axial movement; the small (and getting bigger) angle allows the destruction… The damage would have been worse if taken later.

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post #30 of 119 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcSilverTriple View Post
The way the rubber are designed is part of the problem. The slot to insert the flange is not centered, and with the torque, it moves beyond an RADIAL movement; the small (and getting bigger) angle allows the destruction… The damage would have been worse if taken later.
Axial is in line with the axis (or axel). That movement develops later.

The initial movement is in line with the direction of rotation; RADIAL.

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